What to see in the Bieszczady? A complete guide
May 2, 2025
Welcome to the very heart of the Eastern Carpathians, a land where clocks seem to tick slower and nature reigns supreme! The Bieszczady Mountains, rightly considered some of the wildest in Poland, entice tourists seeking silence, genuine peace, and views that linger long in the memory. This magical place, part of the picturesque Carpathian range, offers extraordinary landscapes and is home to rich fauna and flora. If you’re wondering what’s worth seeing in the Bieszczady and how best to plan your trip there, even one planned *en route to the Bieszczady*, this guide has been prepared just for you. Get ready to discover these mountains of freedom, where ancient history blends with untouched nature. We’ll show you where to stay, what to eat, and what attractions will simply make your trip unforgettable. Anyone visiting the region should know *what you must see in the Bieszczady*. Ready to set off with us into the Bieszczady?
The Most Beautiful Mountain Trails

Mountain hiking is probably the essence of the Bieszczady experience, isn’t it? Particularly the poloninas, with their vast, grass-covered areas, offer panoramas that are literally breathtaking. The Bieszczady, being part of the Forested Beskids, boast plenty of wonderful hiking trails.
You’ll find routes here for everyone – from gentle strolls, ideal for warming up, to truly demanding ascents up the highest peaks. For example, you can follow the main *red trail*, running across the most popular summits. Other paths, such as those marked with the *green trail*, are often gentler and perfect for shorter hikes. Anyone who loves mountains will certainly find something for themselves here. And us? We’ll be delighted to suggest which places in the Bieszczady stole our hearts.
Conquering Tarnica: The Queen of the Bieszczady and Her Breathtaking Views
You can’t talk about the Bieszczady without mentioning Tarnica! This highest peak on the Polish side (1346 m a.s.l.), proudly belonging to the Crown of Polish Mountains, is an absolute must on the map of any Bieszczady adventure. The trail leading to Tarnica is iconic, and the views spreading out from the summit are the best reward for every step and every effort made.
You can start your hike from Wołosate, where a convenient car park awaits you, or choose a longer, but equally scenic route. From Tarnica, breathtaking panoramas stretch out over the entire Bieszczady, including nearby Halicz and Rozsypaniec. What’s more, the route passes through the Bieszczady National Park, ensuring unforgettable contact with wild nature. Completing the loop via Tarnica is, let’s be honest, one of the most interesting attractions in the Bieszczady.
Hiking on Połonina Wetlińska and Caryńska: A Paradise for Panorama Lovers
Połonina Wetlińska and Połonina Caryńska – these are two more Bieszczady gems that you simply have to see. Połonina Caryńska, often called the queen, is particularly famous for views that are hard to describe in words. Połonina Caryńska can be reached from Ustrzyki Górne or Brzegi Górne, which, being an excellent starting point, is itself a charming Bieszczady village.
Połonina Wetlińska, although sometimes mistaken for Wielka Rawka (which is actually a separate peak, although people often hike there together with Mała Rawka and Krzemieniec), is another summit worth conquering. Although the legendary Chatka Puchatka (Winnie the Pooh Hut) mountain hut, standing below Hasiakowa Skała on Połonina Wetlińska, is currently undergoing renovation (oh, many miss the old hut!), the polonina still attracts crowds of tourists with its boundless panoramas. And Połonina Caryńska? This is another place where the views make you simply want to sit and gaze into the distance, at the wild beauty of the Bieszczady.
A Walk on Bukowe Berdo: Picturesque Trails and Views of the Surroundings
Bukowe Berdo – this polonina may be less known than Tarnica or the famous Połonina Wetlińska and Caryńska, but believe me, it offers equally, if not more, picturesque trails and views. The trail leading, for example, from Muczne to Bukowe Berdo allows you to look at Tarnica and Połonina Wetlińska from a completely new perspective.
From the summit of Bukowe Berdo, reaching 1311 m a.s.l., you can continue towards Tarnica or simply admire the vast panorama of nearby peaks, such as Krzemień or Kopa Bukowska. (Apparently, Maciej, a guide friend, reached it recently and was absolutely delighted!). It’s virtually an ideal choice for those looking for interesting places for hiking but who would like to avoid the biggest crowds.
Attractions for Body and Soul

The Bieszczady Mountains aren’t just about peaks and poloninas, after all! They are also places where you can find true solace, immerse yourself in wild nature, and spend time actively, for example by the water. And what to do *when it rains*? The Bieszczady also offer many attractions *besides the mountains*, ideal *for the whole family*. This region offers plenty of ways to spend time outdoors, from relaxing walks to exciting encounters with… well, who?
Peaceful Hikes in the San Valley: Discover the Charm of Bieszczady Corners
The San Valley shows the Bieszczady from a completely different side, more intimate, quiet. If you dream of calmer hikes and beautiful landscapes, but without having to climb steep slopes, the trail leading along the San river will be spot on.
The source of the San flows somewhere near the Użok Pass, on the Ukrainian side, and in Chmiel, the river already resembles a wide, shimmering ribbon. The meanders of the San at the foot of Otryt and the views of the river in the Krywe Reserve… well, they can take your breath away, that’s for sure. A walk along the San Valley allows you to discover the charm of these less obvious, but by no means less beautiful, corners of the Bieszczady. Tourists seeking silence often find accommodation in the charming villages scattered in this valley.
Wildlife Observation: Bears, Wolves, Lynxes – and You?
Bieszczady National Park, located in Poland, is a real paradise for anyone who loves nature. The park meticulously protects its unique fauna – you’ll find animals here such as the brown bear, wolf, lynx (which proudly adorns the park’s emblem), wildcat, and sometimes even the golden eagle. The local forests are home to all these, well, perhaps except the eagle, predators. The Bieszczady constitute an extremely important ecological corridor for large predators.
Tourists come here, to the Bieszczady National Park, precisely to have a chance to admire these wonderful animals in their natural, though difficult to observe, environment. Just remember that if you want to bring a dog, check the park regulations first, that’s important. And at the Centre for Forestry Promotion in Muczne, you can see how large a deer, bear, or lynx really is, and even come face to face with a wolf – from a completely safe distance, of course, as impressive specimens of animals are displayed there.
Relaxing by Lake Solina: Beaches, Kayaking, Silence
Lake Solina, although formally located in the Sanok-Turka Mountains, is so strongly associated with the Bieszczady in people’s minds that it has become one of the biggest attractions of the region. It is the largest artificial reservoir in Poland, created in 1968 by damming the waters of the San and Solinka rivers with the mighty Solina Dam. The dam, a true engineering feat, is not only crucial for the country’s water management but is itself a huge attraction, drawing crowds of tourists.
Walking along the crest of the dam is probably a must for anyone visiting the Bieszczady – the views of Lake Solina and the surrounding mountains from there are, well, simply amazing. Around Lake Solina, let’s face it, fashionable towns with very developed tourist facilities have sprung up, such as Polańczyk (which lies right on the lake) or Solina. By Lake Solina, you can relax on the ‘beaches’ (often artificial, unfortunately, but what can you do…), engage in water sports, sail, or simply sit by the shore and enjoy the beauty of Bieszczady nature.
For the active, there are also picturesque paths and cycling routes around the lake, allowing you to admire the landscape and feel close to nature. Interestingly, the reservoir also attracts diving enthusiasts – the waters here are quite clear for an artificial reservoir, and beneath the surface lie interesting places to explore, including submerged fragments of former settlements. (I once heard a story about a submerged church!). Below Lake Solina there is also a smaller, equally charming Lake Myczkowce.
Culture and History of the Region

However, the Bieszczady are not just about mountains and water. They are also about a deep and often very tragic history, and a unique culture that grew out of the meeting and intermingling of different nationalities and their traditions. Discovering the traces of the past is a journey through time that can really draw you in.
Discover the Secrets of the Churches in Łopienka and Smolnik
Churches (Cerkwie) are an inseparable, even iconic, element of the Bieszczady landscape, especially in the *southern* part of the region. They stand as silent witnesses to the former culture and faith of the Lemko and Boyko people, Ruthenian populations who inhabited these areas before the Second World War. In Podkarpacie, you’ll come across many beautiful, usually wooden, Greek Catholic churches, most of which function today as Roman Catholic churches. It is particularly, truly particularly, worth *visiting* the church in Łopienka.
When you reach the church in Łopienka, a charming temple, though bearing the scars of history, will appear before your eyes. After the last inhabitants of the village of Łopienka were displaced to the so-called Recovered Territories as part of Operation Vistula in 1947, the church fell into ruin. Fortunately, thanks to enormous efforts, the walls were conserved, vegetation removed, a new roof installed (covered with sheet metal, although some prefer shingles…), doors and windows fitted, and even a concrete floor laid – thus the temple regained some of its former glory. Today, it is cared for by the Carpathian Society, making it accessible to tourists. In summer, in July and August, Roman Catholic masses are even held here.
Inside the church, you will see a stained glass window, and above the altar hangs the icon of Our Lady of Łopienka, painted by Jadwiga “Mrówka” Denisiuk, a well-known artist who runs an icon workshop in Cisna. (Interestingly, the original icon from this church is currently in the church in Polańczyk). The church in Łopienka attracts not only with its beauty but also with its moving history, which you can learn by reading the information boards. Tourists often buy symbolic ‘bricks’ to support further renovation. And another extraordinary monument is the Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Smolnik. It is the only preserved sacral object in the Bieszczady representing the pure Boyko style and proudly sits on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Other wooden churches worth seeing include, for example, the Blessed Bronisława church in Hoszów (a frequent motif on Bieszczady postcards, and for good reason!) or the church in Bystre, included in the Podkarpacie Wooden Architecture Trail. And there’s Jadwiga Denisiuk, the artist from Cisna, mentioned earlier – it was she who made a copy of the icon of Our Lady of Łopienka.
Visiting the Open-Air Museums in Sanok and Zyndranowa: A Journey Through Time
Want to feel how the old Bieszczady used to pulsate with life? You must visit the open-air museums! Sanok, often called the gateway to the Bieszczady, is a city with a truly rich history. It is in Sanok that Poland’s largest ethnographic museum is located – the Museum of Folk Architecture, picturesquely situated on the other side of the San river. This Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture, with authentic cottages and churches, transports us directly to times when the Bieszczady looked completely different.
If you just notice it – and it’s worth looking around – enter the house of the Galician Jew and, if he’s there, strike up a conversation with its resident, Mr. Marek (a very colourful character!). It’s also worth visiting the Royal Castle in Sanok, which houses the Historical Museum. You’ll find there, considered the most valuable icon exhibition in Poland, and in the same castle hang the famous paintings by Zdzisław Beksiński. This legendary artist, Zdzisław Beksiński, is connected with Sanok, after all. As a guide friend of mine says: “Sanok is Beksiński, and Beksiński is Sanok”. And if you want to better understand his persona and family, Magdalena Grzebałtowska’s book “Beksińscy. Portret podwójny” is a read worth having under your belt before or after visiting Sanok.
Another extremely important place, which preserves the memory of a different ethnic group, is the Open-Air Museum in Zyndranowa. It collects memorabilia of the Lemko people. This allows you to truly delve into the culture of this remarkable ethnic group, who have inhabited the Carpathians for centuries.
Charming Wooden Footbridges on Peat Bogs: A Walk Through a Unique Ecosystem
But the Bieszczady are not just mountains and churches, oh no! They also hide less obvious places, though equally fascinating. The Wooden Footbridges on the Peat Bogs in Tarnawa Wyżna are a unique (though for some perhaps too short?) tourist attraction that allows you to walk literally across a unique ecosystem of raised bogs. The peat bogs in Tarnawa are a nature reserve, protecting something truly extraordinary.
Sphagnum mosses primarily dominate these peat bogs, but you’ll also find plenty of other bog and marsh plants. Interestingly, these drainage ditches you see here were built in the 1970s with the goal of… draining the peat bogs, which, from today’s perspective, seems a bit odd. The wooden path leads through the peat bog in Tarnawa, enabling close, but safe, contact with this delicate and unusual nature, without disturbing its balance. It’s an ideal place for a peaceful walk, a moment of quiet reflection, and admiring a landscape that doesn’t necessarily have to be “mountainous”.
Mysteries and Legends of the Bieszczady

Yes, the Bieszczady are a land full of mysteries, traces of old, vanishing villages, and stories about people who consciously chose a life away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s worth setting out to search for these stories, because they give the region its unique, slightly dark and slightly romantic character.
Discovering Traces of Former Settlements and Vanishing Villages: The Bieszczady Sack
The “Bieszczady Sack” – this popular name refers to the areas located in the upper San river valley, clinging to the Polish-Ukrainian border, between the border itself and the range of the Polish High Bieszczady. It’s an area where time seems to stand still, and traces of former settlements and villages that simply vanished now hide in the dense forests. Along the historical trail “Bieszczady Found”, which passes through the Sine Wiry nature reserve (located where the villages of Zawój and Łuh once buzzed with life), you will find remnants of villages that no longer exist: Bukowiec, Beniowa, and Sianki.
From the car park in Bukowiec, a trail leads to Beniowa. In Beniowa, you’ll come across a cemetery and fragments of church foundations. Interestingly, on the ruins of the church lies a sandstone in the shape of a boat with a drawing of a fish carved into it – this is a sign of the early Christians, likely the base of the baptismal font of the previous church. Along the route, you’ll also find the Countess’s Grave (this is the colloquial name for the tombstones of Countess Klara née Kalinowska Stroińska, who died in 1867, and her husband Franciszek Stroiński, often called the “Bieszczady Romeo and Juliet”), located in the village of Sianki. The path ends near the Użok Pass, close to the Sources of the San (although the actual sources, ironically, are on the Ukrainian side).
Villages in the Bieszczady, as is known, were displaced after World War II, leaving a void that still resonates. In Tarnawa Niżna, near the cemetery in Dźwiniacz Górny, scenes for the TV series “Wataha” (The Pack) were filmed, which perhaps best illustrates how wild and full of mysteries this region is. Visiting these places is like a real journey through time, a chance to learn about the history of the people who once gave meaning to this place, and who are no longer here today.
Hear Tales of the Zakapiorzy: People of the Bieszczady
The Bieszczady have always had something about them that attracted – and still attracts – people seeking freedom, silence, and life on their own, often unconventional, terms. The legends of the Zakapiorzy – those who came to the Bieszczady in bygone times, often fleeing their past – are an inseparable part of the region’s history. These were colourful, often controversial figures, such as Majster Bieda (about whom Andrzej Potocki writes in his book “Majster Bieda czyli Zakapiorskie Bieszczady”), Zdzicho Rados, and Rysiek “Bury”, who created that unique Bieszczady atmosphere.
Jadwiga Denisiuk, whom we’ve already mentioned regarding the churches, was Bury’s wife and creates icons; her workshop can be visited in Cisna. To feel the spirit of those slightly bygone times, it’s worth dropping into the Zakapior inn in Polańczyk. You can see photos of the Zakapiorzy there and listen to stories about their, by no means easy, lives. It’s a living testament to the extraordinary history of the people of the Bieszczady and their unique culture, which still slumbers somewhere there.
Adventure on the Border Trail: The Tripoint
For those who enjoy a slight tingle of excitement, the Bieszczady offer trails running along the Polish-Ukrainian border. One of the most interesting points, without a doubt, is Krzemieniec – a peak where the borders of Poland, Slovakia, and Ukraine literally meet, i.e., on the *southern* border of Poland. From Wielka Rawka, you can reach Krzemieniec in about 45 minutes, it’s not far.
It’s a symbolic place where three countries, three cultures, three worlds converge… Hiking this trail is not only a physical challenge but also a journey through history and, let’s be frank, the geopolitics of the region. By the way, when hiking to the Rawki peaks (Mała and Wielka) from the Wyżniańska Pass, which lies between Brzegi Górne and Ustrzyki Górne, it’s really worth considering extending the route with a trip to the border tripoint. (I always feel some strange energy there!).
Practical Tips for Tourists
When planning a trip to the Bieszczady, it’s a good idea to consider a few purely practical matters to fully enjoy this magical place. From how to get there to packing the right gear – every detail matters, seriously.
How to Get to the Bieszczady: Trains, Buses, and… Hitchhiking?
The Bieszczady are connected to the rest of Poland mainly via National Road 28, which leads through Sanok to Ustrzyki Dolne, passing, among other places, *Grabownica Starzeńska*, and Voivodeship Road 893, which will take you to Lesko. Sanok is the main railway hub, from where you can reach smaller Bieszczady towns by train, such as Lesko or Ustrzyki Dolne. You can also reach Zagórz, Komańcza, or Łupków by train. If you don’t have your own car, buses are a very popular mode of transport.
Buses reach many important locations, such as Cisna, Smerek, and Wetlina, and what’s more, they often run between popular starting points for mountain excursions, setting off as soon as enough passengers gather. The company TravelPL operates a dozen routes that pass through the most important Bieszczady towns. But interestingly, and this is worth knowing, drivers in the Bieszczady are very willing to stop for people who are hitchhiking, really! They realise that getting here is not always the easiest, and in the Bieszczady, you often encounter people, both tourists and locals, moving between neighbouring villages precisely this way.
If you plan to travel by car along the famous Great Bieszczady Loop or its smaller sister, the Small Bieszczady Loop, remember one important thing: there are no chain petrol stations (like Orlen or BP) deep in the mountains – they only appear in Sanok and Lesko. It’s worth knowing *how many kilometres* each loop is to plan your refuelling. Although, yes, small, private stations operate, for example in Wetlina, Cisna, Smolnik, or Krzemieniec. But Ustrzyki Górne, for example, is a town in whose vicinity petrol stations simply… don’t exist. (It’s worth remembering this when setting off on a longer journey!).
Where to Stay: From Hotels to Campsites
The Bieszczady offer truly plenty of accommodation options, suited to every budget and need. Most tourists come here in the summer – holidays are, of course, the peak season, and accommodation prices are highest then, which probably surprises no one. But autumn is also immensely popular, often considered the very best time to visit, all thanks to our wonderful Polish Golden Autumn.
In June, when the author of this text had the opportunity to be in the Bieszczady, the trails were not yet crowded, and temperatures in May are usually already very pleasant. In spring, the trails are definitely less crowded than in July or August. In winter, the Bieszczady mainly attract skiers, although, frankly speaking, there aren’t that many typical, classic mountain shelters here.
- Hotels, Houses, and Apartments: Ideal for those who value comfort and convenience. Hotels often have their own *restaurant* serving regional dishes, and houses and apartments offer more privacy and freedom, as well as the possibility of self-catering.
- Tourist and Mountain Shelters: These are excellent bases for setting off on trails, offering simple conditions and that unique atmosphere of shared travel, conversations over tea… Shelters in the Bieszczady, located in truly beautiful places, are like small oases of peace for hikers. Remember that Chatka Puchatka on Połonina Wetlińska is, as we mentioned, under renovation. The PTTK shelter on Połonina Caryńska, located on one of the most beautiful poloninas, offers amazing panoramas and, importantly, a homely atmosphere. The “Orłowicza” shelter in Ustrzyki Górne is a great place for those who value comfort and full board, served “ready-made”. The “Koliba” shelter in Wołosate, near the entrance to the Bieszczady National Park, is in turn a good base, offering silence, peace, cosy interiors, and, importantly, local delicacies.
- Agritourism: Agritourism farms are not just about accommodation in comfortable conditions, but also an opportunity to get to know life in a Bieszczady village and the local culture better. Good starting points from which you can quickly reach many attractions include Cisna (I recommend looking for places like “SOSENKA” Guest Rooms), Wetlina, Ustrzyki Górne, Smerek, or Chmiel (where there’s, for example, the charming House from the Green Hill).
- Tent Camps and Campgrounds: This is an option for true nature lovers who want to be as close to nature as possible and are travelling with their own tent or campervan. The Bieszczady have plenty of picturesquely located camping spots, often by Lake Solina. Those travelling by campervan also often stop in car parks along the Bieszczady ring road.
What to Pack for the Mountains: Clothing, Gear
The weather in the Bieszczady can be… well, let’s say, exceptionally changeable and unpredictable, as it is in the mountains. Summer brings warm days, but afternoon thunderstorms, especially in July and August, are commonplace. Autumn and spring can also be very capricious. Therefore, proper preparation is an absolute must for a successful trip, seriously.
You absolutely, but absolutely, must pack layered clothing, including a good, waterproof jacket. This will allow you to adapt to rapidly changing temperatures and, more importantly, to precipitation – rain in the mountains can appear literally out of nowhere. Good quality mountain footwear is an absolute essential, don’t skimp on it! In your backpack, besides food and drink, of course, you should also include: a waterproof cover for your backpack, a map (or a good hiking app that shows the trail, although a paper map is also useful!), a compass, sunscreen with UV filter (the sun in the mountains can burn, even on a cloudy day), headwear (be it a peaked cap or a scarf), and even a hat and gloves – seriously, even in summer in the higher parts of the mountains it can be cold and windy. And a thermos with something hot, tea for example, which will warm you up on colder days, is priceless.
When in the Bieszczady, it’s really worth getting a good map or relying on a proven hiking application. They will help you find all interesting attractions and plan your hikes well. By the way, the author personally discovered many fantastic places and trails precisely by exploring with a map on his phone and computer – it works!
Bieszczady Cuisine
Travelling is also about discovering new flavours, after all, and the Bieszczady tempt with a wealth of local specialities that draw heavily on the generosity of nature and the region’s multicultural, complex history.
Tasting Regional Specialities: Trout, Lamb, and Traditional Dishes
In Bieszczady cuisine, trout probably reigns supreme – fresh, straight from local fish farms, prepared in countless ways, for example, trout with vegetables (highly recommended!). Lamb is another dish you simply must try – meat from sheep that grazed on the Bieszczady poloninas has that unique, unmistakable taste.
If you’re looking for something truly regional, look out for fuczki (these are pancakes made from pancake batter with sauerkraut – sounds strange, tastes great!), knysza (a variation on potato pancakes, but with a filling), or hreczanyki and warenyki (these are regional versions of pierogi, but with different dough and filling). Kwasnica, a soup based on sauerkraut, often with meat and potatoes, is an ideal, filling, and warming dish after a full day of hiking. Simple, but incredibly tasty potato pancakes are served here with various toppings. For dessert? Definitely Podkarpacie sękacz – a cake with a distinctive shape and taste, a true pride of regional cuisine.
And if you happen to visit Polańczyk, drop in for dinner at Karczma Zakapior. They serve, well, real Bieszczady cuisine there.
Where to Eat in the Bieszczady: Establishments Serving Regional Cuisine
The Bieszczady offer many places where you can sample local specialities. Besides the aforementioned Karczma Zakapior in Polańczyk, it’s worth looking around for other local restaurants and inns. The inn Karczma Paweł Nie Całkiem Święty is located in Smerek (the name is intriguing, isn’t it?). Karczma Carpathia awaits you in Muczne. In Wetlina, on the other hand, Chata Wędrowca is famous, primarily for its renowned Giant Pancake – it’s a huge, fried fritter served with sweet cream and plenty of fruit (be warned, it really IS giant!).
Hotels, as we’ve already mentioned, often have their own restaurants with regional menus, and many agritourism farms serve delicious, home-cooked, traditional dishes. Regional galleries in Cisna, Lutowiska, or Lesko (the one in the former synagogue, open only during the summer season, if I remember correctly) are places where you can buy souvenirs but often also find information about local eateries – it’s worth asking the locals!
Coffee from the Retort: Not Just a Drink, But a Bieszczady Experience
If you are true coffee aficionados, you must look for “Kawa z Retorty” (Coffee from the Retort). This isn’t just ordinary coffee; it’s a real, unique Bieszczady experience. In tanks called retorts, which were once used for burning charcoal (a product that for years was so typical of the Bieszczady landscape, closely associated with the world of charcoal burners), coffee is now sometimes roasted.
We once found one of the still operating charcoal burning bases when I was working on an article about the Bieszczady, on the way to the church in Łopienka – it was fascinating to see it with my own eyes. The Open-Air Museum of Charcoal Burning, located right by the road between Stuposiany and Muczne, perfectly presents the history of the local timber industry and the life of charcoal burners. And the Kawa z Retorty café itself is located in Smerek, a village situated between Cisna and Wetlina, towards Ustrzyki Dolne. Run by Klaudia and Filip (very friendly people!), it offers coffee roasted on site.
Filip personally roasts Ethiopian Guji beans, and my colleague Natalia, who accompanied me, had a latte and was simply delighted with the taste. Bieszczadzki Wypał Kawy (Bieszczady Coffee Roasting) not only serves finished coffee but also sells beans, offering unique, “Bieszczady” flavours, with names like Rysia, Retortowa, or Zakapiorska. It’s a fantastic way to combine a love for good coffee with learning about local traditions and the region’s history.
Unforgettable Impressions from Travelling in the Bieszczady
The Bieszczady are a place that, if you allow them to, will surely stay in your heart for a long time. They are a symbol of freedom, boundlessness, where you can literally immerse yourself in this wild, at times primitive, nature. Regardless of whether you choose strenuous hikes on the poloninas or quiet, leisurely strolls through the valleys, every day spent here will bring something new, full of discoveries and impressions.
From the impressive Solina dam and the blue Lake Solina, through the iconic Bieszczady Forest Railway, also known as the *narrow-gauge railway* (its main station is Majdan, and trains reach Balnica, located right by the border with Slovakia, although they once went further, e.g., to Przysłup – the Bieszczady Forest Railway Foundation bravely maintains traffic on this historic railway, which is by no means easy!), as well as the interesting cycling railcars in Uherce Mineralne (where the Ursa Maior Bieszczady Brewery is also located, and a small waterfall can be found on the Olszanka river), to lesser-known places that can still surprise you. For example, the Szepit waterfall (also known as the Waterfall on Hylaty Stream), the highest waterfall in the Bieszczady, hidden near Zatwarnica, along the Hylaty stream. Or the Jeziorka Duszatyńskie, these landslide lakes on the slopes of Chryszczata, the last two of which are protected by the “Zwiezło” Reserve (getting there can be a bit challenging, but it’s worth it!).
There’s also the new observation tower on Jeleniowaty in Muczne (from which you can see truly everything: Halicz, Kopa Bukowska, Połonina Caryńska, Wetlińska, Smerek, Otryt, the upper San river valley, and even the Ukrainian Bieszczady and Gorgany – and just below, the village of Muczne itself is presented; a loop from this tower will also take you to, as expected, the ruins of the former Brenzberg forester’s lodge). And, of course, the ruins of the Discalced Carmelites monastery in Zagórz (where there is also a war cemetery commemorating Poles murdered by the UPA, and a beautiful view of the San extends from the Sobień castle – by the way, Jakub Czarnik wrote a nice novel “Mr. Car and the Monastery in Zagórz”, I recommend it!). The Bieszczady simply know how to surprise, you have to give them that.
Let’s not forget places like the Show Bison Enclosure (where we stopped to admire these powerful animals; the enclosure is located within the Muczne forestry area, by the road from Stuposiany to Tarnawa Niżna, just before Muczne itself; Białowieża-Caucasian race bison are bred there; foresters had to undertake the task of restoring the bison population, which came here from Pszczyna and Niepołomice; the task of the show enclosure is, after all, to increase the population of these magnificent animals – a very important mission!). Or the educational site of Charcoal Burning in Pszczeliny, where it’s worth, well, making that stop. In Muczne, there is also the Nature Museum at the Centre for Forestry Promotion, with a small arboretum.
Visiting the Rymanów-Zdrój spa town, where you can drink medicinal water and stroll through the Spa Park along the Tabor river (a wonderful place for relaxation!), or visiting the Museum of Oil and Gas Industry in Bóbrka (oh, that’s a significant piece of industrial history that started right here!), as well as seeking out the glider airfield located in Bezmiechowa Górna (the views from there are also quite something!) – these are further ideas for interesting excursions that, although perhaps not located in the strict High Bieszczady, are inseparably connected with them. The routes of the Great Bieszczady Loop (starts in Lesko, passes Cisna, winds towards Wetlina, Ustrzyki Górne, Lutowiska, and Ustrzyki Dolne – the most beautiful views, in my opinion, are at the Wyżna Pass!) and the Small Bieszczady Loop (encircles Lake Solina, leads from Lesko through Hoczew, Polańczyk, Rajskie, Czarna Górna, Hoszów to Ustrzyki Dolne) are practically ready-made trip plans. They allow you to discover what, well, you must see when travelling by car, motorbike (oh yes, motorcyclists love these Bieszczady roads!) or bicycle (cyclists also appreciate these routes, although they require good fitness!). Driving *along such routes* is the essence of the Bieszczady experience. Signs along the Small Loop also lead to many historic churches and chapels. I recommend visiting the Museum of Boyko Culture in Myczków – an interesting lesson in the region’s history. It doesn’t matter if you come in summer, autumn, or spring (winter, on the other hand, is a paradise for skiers, that’s probably obvious!), the Bieszczady always have something absolutely unique to offer. It’s one of those regions in Poland that still allows you to feel the true taste of adventure and that much-desired freedom.
A Journey Through the Mountains: Discover Their Wild Beauty and Peace
Finally, just allow yourself, just like that, to wander. Besides the most famous Bieszczady trails, leading to Tarnica, Halicz, or Połonina Wetlińska and Caryńska, within the Bieszczady National Park and the adjacent landscape parks, you will find plenty of less frequented, but equally, or even more, beautiful paths. The Sine Wiry reserve, for example, protects the gorge of the Wetlina river valley – and to set off on a trip through this reserve, you must first reach the village of Polanki, located in the Solinka valley, near Cisna.
The “Sine Wiry” nature and education trail leads truly very close to the waters of the Wetlina river. And interestingly, you will reach the bank of the Wetlina once again using the second part of the same educational path; it’s worth seeing the river in several places. Following the “Bieszczady Found” trail further, tracing the path of former villages (Zawój, Łuh, Jaworzec), you will even reach Kalnica.
And Wetlina hides the Ostrowscy Waterfall (also known as the Waterfall in Stare Sioło or the Waterfall in Wetlina) – the highest single drop of water in the Bieszczady, located on a small stream called Słowiański, which flows into the Wetlinka river in the centre of Wetlina. To the waterfall, well, you reach it by the road that leads to the Piotrowa Polana and Leśny Dwór centres in Wetlina, a bit unexpected, but that’s how it is. For lake enthusiasts, I also recommend the Jeziorka Duszatyńskie, which we already mentioned, and the Bobrowe Lake near Huczwice.
In Uherce Mineralne, a village that even has its own railway station, the Bieszczady Cycling Railcars operate (the station in Uherce Mineralne connects the railway line between Stróże and Krościenko), offering a nice, though somewhat tiring, ride on former railway tracks (on the Olszanka river, remember, there is a waterfall!). Krzemień, Kopa Bukowska, Mała Rawka, Połonina Bukowska, Rozsypaniec – these are other peaks that, when planning hikes, are worth considering, as each of them has something to offer.
Every hike, every walk, every drive by car or motorbike along the Great Bieszczady Loop or the Small Bieszczady Loop, is a new adventure. From the observation tower on the summit of Jeleniowaty, as we’ve already mentioned, wonderful views stretch out, best showcasing the wild, rugged, but also beautiful charm of this region. You can continue your hike from Bukowe Berdo towards Tarnica, and eventually descend from the mountains to Wołosate – it’s a popular option, and convenient.
And let’s not forget the Raised Peat Bogs in Tarnawa Wyżna, where the wooden path leads through this unique reserve, or the Show Bison Enclosure. Discovering the Bieszczady is, fundamentally, a journey through their wild beauty, extraordinary atmosphere, and that soothing peace that, I promise you, awaits around every bend of the trail or road. Anyone who visits the Bieszczady even once will quickly understand why generations of tourists created the legend of these mountains, and why tourists are so strongly, so irresistibly, drawn to this unique place in Poland.
0 Comments