Welcome to the Bieszczady Mountains! If you’re looking for a place that combines the unique atmosphere of a mountain hut, a rich history, and authentic regional flavours, perfectly fitting into the Bieszczady spirit, then Bacówka Caryńskie is just the spot for you. Hidden in the picturesque valley of the former village of Caryńskie, near Przysłup Pass and the famous Połonina Caryńska, it arguably constitutes the true heart of Bieszczady tradition. Coming here, you have the chance not only to embark on unforgettable hikes but also to sample exceptional sheep’s cheeses and sense the spirit of bygone eras. Doesn’t that sound tempting? Prepare yourself for a story about a place where time moves slower, and every corner hides fascinating stories and views worth capturing in photos.

The Heart of the Bacówka: Cheese and Tradition

What immediately comes to mind when we think of Bacówka Caryńskie is, of course, cheese. Right in the heart of the Bieszczady National Park, where sheep are still grazed on extensive meadows, a product of extraordinary taste and aroma is born. And while the tradition of making Wallachian cheeses is still alive here, nurtured by people who have known this craft for generations, it’s worth remembering that this place evolves, although the roots remain the same.

Sheep’s Cheeses from Bacówka Caryńskie: The Taste and Aroma of the Bieszczady

The delicious sheep’s cheeses made at Bacówka Caryńskie are the quintessence of Bieszczady flavours. It is for these that many tourists return to this spot. Their uniqueness lies not only in the recipe but also in the quality of the milk from sheep grazing on the Bieszczady pastures. As a guide friend of mine says, ‘the real Bieszczady smell of damp forest and bacówka cheese.’ These cheeses, including traditional Wallachian cheeses, can be purchased directly at the bacówka, as well as at some local outlets, such as Zajazd pod Caryńską in Ustrzyki Górnych, which, it’s worth adding, also offer other regional specialities. Do be sure to try them – it’s the taste of the Bieszczady encapsulated in a small piece of cheese!

Traditional Cheese Production Methods: From Sheep to Table

Cheese production at the Bacówka is based on age-old, traditional methods that are passed down from generation to generation. It’s a process requiring not only knowledge and patience but also a deep respect for nature, which, it seems to me, is particularly valuable nowadays.

Highlanders, often originating from the Ukrainian Hutsul region, are involved here in sheep grazing and the entire, complex cheese-making process. From the spring redyks, when the sheep travel to the mountain pastures, to daily milking and milk processing in traditional bacówka conditions – every single stage, literally every one, has its unique significance for the final taste.

It is precisely because of this that cheeses with a unique character are produced, tasting different from all others, and the sheep grazed on the meadows of the Bieszczady National Park provide milk with exceptional properties, which, as you can easily guess, directly translates into the quality of the final product, creating something difficult to replicate elsewhere.

The History of the Bacówka: From the Village of Caryńskie to the Present Day

The valley where Bacówka Caryńskie stands today hides a turbulent and fascinating history of the now non-existent village of Caryńskie. The transformations that have occurred in this place over the centuries bear witness to the complex fate of the Bieszczady and its inhabitants.

The Lost Village of Caryńskie: History and the Fate of Its Inhabitants

The village of Caryńskie was located at the foot of Połonina Caryńska, in the valley of the Caryńczyk stream, between the połonina ridge and Magura Stuposiańska. Its centre was the Orthodox church dedicated to St. Demetrius the Great Martyr, a wooden building in the Boyko style, serving as a local centre for the cult of St. John the Baptist. On the day of the patron saint festival, the faithful from surrounding villages would flock to Caryńskie, and several thousand people took part in the religious ceremonies. The Society of St. John the Baptist was founded near the church in 1894. And what about the owners? The village of Caryńskie was located within the estates of the Kmita family before 1620. At the beginning of the 17th century, its owner was Helena Kiszkowa, the daughter of the Mstsislav Voivode, who in 1620 leased the key administrative unit, comprising Caryńskie along with Berehy Górne and Nasiczne, to Andrzej Bogucki. And so the fate of the village later became intertwined with the Ossoliński family when Marianna z Ossolińskich brought the Dwernickie estates as a dowry to Józef Jan Mniszech. Their son, Maksymilian Mniszech, inherited the estates in 1786.

Caryńskie was not just a place of worship and peasant life. There was also a wooden inn here, where in 1917 the innkeeper was Elo Herman – interesting, right? Mills also operated in the village; M. Augustyn provides their locations in Bieszczad Yearbook No. 13. One mill was located on the border with Dwernik, at the mouth of the Zwór stream, and Maksym Głuch was formerly the miller there. Another mill, run by Michał Rapacz from the Rapacz family, was located below the confluence of the Caryńczyk stream with the Caryński stream, beside the Balotecz stream. The course of the Caryński stream was marked on the cadastral map from 1852 – a detail, but an important one for understanding the topography of the place.

The tragic end of the village came after World War II, when the inhabitants of Bieszczady villages, including those from Caryńskie, were ultimately forcibly displaced in 1947 as part of the infamous ‘Operation Vistula’ – a painful chapter of history that profoundly affected the entire region. All residents were sent to the USSR. Only a few traces of the former buildings remain, such as the ruins of the brick chapel of St. John or the cemetery with a few gravestones. Approx. 200 m east of where the church stood (today only remnants of the foundation), a cross from 1911 with an inscription, offered by Petro Minko, has been preserved. 200 m south of the cemetery, in ruins, stands a brick chapel made of stone. The Caryńczyk stream flows near Caryńskie, creating nice cascades in places. The remains of the Rapacz family Mill are located in the upper part of the former settlement area of Caryńskie.

After the resettlements, the Bieszczady became practically uninhabited, and the forests were transferred to Forest Districts, while the agricultural land went to the State Land Fund and, interestingly, to TPN (Tatra National Park), not the Bieszczady National Park, which didn’t yet exist in that form at the time. In the Ustrzyki district, the so-called Bieszczady economic policy began, including the construction of settlements for forestry workers and employees, the development of public and forest roads, and the organisation of grazing management. Former routes, such as Wetlina – Berehy – Ustrzyki Górne or Dwernik – Berehy, were in a really, *truly* poor state. The Great Bieszczady Loop road was built in 1962, and the road in the Caryńskie valley was constructed in 1963. The Forest District established a timber yard here at that time. TPN and the State Land Fund began leasing pasture land to Highlanders from the Podhale region for sheep grazing – an idea which, despite initial hopes, ended, as we know, in complete failure, as attempts to connect the Podhale Highlanders with the Bieszczady land were unsuccessful. Sheep were transported by train to Ustrzyki Dolne and then driven to Caryńskie.

From 1982 to 1990, Igloopol from Dębica operated here, whose primary area of production was cattle and sheep farming. But the complex also conducted intensive charcoal burning in Caryńskie. But that’s not the end of the colourful stories! In the 1970s, the Caryńskie valley became the location of an unofficial addiction treatment centre, a kind of hippie commune, and Wieńczysław Nowacki is considered its founder. Legend has it that Kora even lived here for a time! Zdzisław Rados also lived in Caryńskie, nicknamed the ‘Blueberry King’. A. Potocki describes the events connected with him thus: ‘When Zdzicho was still living in Caryńskie, the militia burnt down his hut twice with all his belongings. Zdzicho’s presence in Caryńskie primarily bothered party bigwigs who often came to this remote valley for hunting.’ – a sad, yet characteristic story of those times. Since 1996, most of Caryńskie has been within the boundaries of the Bieszczady National Park, which changed the character of this place. The contemporary Bacówka, built in 2016 about 300 m from the site of the former Koliba, is an example of a reference to tradition, though naturally in completely new realities.

From the Kmitas to the Ossolińskis: Owners and Lessees of the Caryńskie Estates

The history of land ownership in the Bieszczady Mountains, including the village of Caryńskie, dates back centuries and is, to put it mildly, extremely complex. The village was located, as we learn from sources, within the estates of the powerful Kmita family. At the beginning of the 16th century, according to available documents, the owner of the village was Helena Kiszkowa, daughter of the Mstsislav Voivode, who in 1620 leased the administrative unit encompassing Caryńskie, Berehy Górne, and Nasiczne to Andrzej Bogucki. Later, as was quite typical for those times, these estates passed into the hands of the Ossoliński family; Marianna z Ossolińskich brought the Dwernickie estates as a dowry to her husband, Józef Jan Mniszech, and in 1786 their son, Maksymilian Mniszech, inherited these lands – another step in a long history. These historical families and their decisions shaped the fate of the village and its inhabitants for centuries before the Bieszczady went through a period of depopulation and reconstruction after World War II, leaving behind traces that we are trying to decipher today.

Bacówka Caryńskie and Its Surroundings: The Beauty of the Bieszczady National Park

Bacówka Caryńskie is located right in the heart of the Bieszczady National Park, which guarantees you a unique aesthetic experience and closeness to nature. The surrounding nature here is absolutely captivating, and the views that can be admired from the nearby peaks are breathtaking. It’s the perfect place to begin your mountain adventures.

Połonina Caryńska: Hikes and Breathtaking Views

Połonina Caryńska is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and recognisable places in the Bieszczady – isn’t it an icon of the region? It is the collective name for the ridge stretching between the valleys of Prowcza and Wołosaty. Its highest point is Kruhly Wierch (1297 m above sea level). The Main Beskid Trail, that famous red trail, runs along its ridge, offering, oh yes, fantastic panoramic views.

If you decide to go for a hike, you can reach Połonina Caryńska, for example, via the green trail from Przełęcz Wyżniańska, where, incidentally, there’s a sizeable car park (although in season, let’s be honest, it can get crowded and costs 25 zł – as of 2024). The trail starts on the other side of the Great Bieszczady Loop road and, importantly, is already within the Bieszczady National Park. It’s the shortest trail to Połonina Caryńska, measuring about 4.5 km in length with a total ascent of 420 m, and typically takes about 2 hours to traverse. It’s worth choosing primarily for its scenic values – the trail is a sort of ‘interweaving’ of forest (enchanting Carpathian beech woods, especially in autumn, when the beeches, like golden statues, become an attraction in themselves) and open połonina terrain.

The extensive, open terrain allows you primarily to glance towards Mała and Wielka Rawka, Połonina Wetlińska, and also to the east, where the panorama above the forest line is completed by the Tarnica Massif – Bukowe Berdo, Krzemień, and Halicz will emerge, and behind them stretch the Ukrainian Bieszczady, which are not visible on a daily basis. Directly in front of you, you’ll see Magura Stuposiańska, and to the left of it Dwernik Kamień and Jawornik. Behind them is the San Valley, further on the flat Otryt range with Trohaniec, and even further the Sanocko-Turczańskie Mountains. What’s more, from Połonina Caryńska, with very good visibility (though it doesn’t always happen!), you can even spot Nagy-Milic, the highest peak in Hungary’s Tokaj Mountains, and reportedly, though I haven’t seen it myself, the Tatras and Low Tatras as well. The history of pastoralism, which I mentioned earlier, is strongly linked with the połoniny – in the pre-war Bieszczady, the inhabitants of villages situated in the valleys grazed their herds on the połoniny. On the southern slopes of the entire ridge, pastoralism was primarily practised by the inhabitants of Berehy Górne (the village stretched along the section between Przełęcz Wyżniańska and Wyżnia), hence the entire massif was originally referred to as Połonina Berehowska. The name Połonina Caryńska was originally applied to pastures located on the northern slopes of the ridge, where the inhabitants of the village of Caryńskie drove their herds – a fascinating change in nomenclature over the years.

Descending from Połonina Caryńska to Przełęcz Wyżniańska, you end your hike at the starting point, which is very convenient, especially if you have a car there. Another trip variant involves walking the red trail towards Ustrzyki Górnych, to the Rzeczyca car park – an option for those who prefer linear routes.

• Shortest trail to Połonina Caryńska from Przełęcz Wyżniańska (green)
• Green trail from Przełęcz Wyżniańska to the Rawkas (Mała and Wielka)
• Red trail from Połonina Caryńska to Ustrzyki Górnych
• Combination of routes via Połonina Caryńska and Połonina Wetlińska
• Historical and nature trail from Nasiczne to Caryńskie

And so, while hiking the trail, it’s worth paying attention to the surrounding nature. For example, you might notice the “beech nursery”, meaning freshly germinating beech seedlings, which represent the hope for the future of Bieszczady forests. Apart from the well-known trails, the Bieszczady offer many other natural attractions worth visiting. If planning a longer stay, you might consider a trip to places like the Głazowisko Bachanowo nature reserve, which is a fascinating example of Bieszczady geology.

Przysłup Caryński and Koliba: Mountain Hut and Viewpoint

Not far from Bacówka Caryńskie, at Przysłup Pass (795 m above sea level), there is a mountain hut named “Koliba”. Przysłup Pass was, incidentally and interestingly, named after the former village of Caryńskie. In the 1970s, a wooden student mountain hut of the Warsaw University of Technology was built here, also bearing the name “Koliba”, but this structure was dismantled in 2008, and a new, brick “Koliba” was put into use in its place in 2010. Today, Koliba houses a GOPR rescue point. The hut serves as a convenient starting or resting point for those heading into the mountains – an ideal spot for a break, wouldn’t you say? From Przysłup Caryński Pass, following a marked trail, you can head both to Połonina Caryńska (green trail) and to Magura Stuposiańska, offering considerable hiking possibilities.

Infrastructure and Access to the Bacówka

Getting to Bacówka Caryńskie and enjoying its charms is relatively simple, although, as is often the case in the Bieszczady, it sometimes requires a bit of planning. Fortunately, the area is well-prepared to welcome tourists.

Getting to Bacówka Caryńskie: Routes and Connections

The Bacówka is located in the valley of the former village of Caryńskie, near Przysłup Pass. The most popular starting point for a hike to Połonina Caryńska, which is, let’s remember, near the Bacówka, is Przełęcz Wyżniańska, where there’s a large car park – in 2024 the price was 25 zł, which, let’s not kid ourselves, is a bit pricey. The trail starts on the other side of the Great Bieszczady Loop road.

Ustrzyki Górne, which is an important transport hub in the Bieszczady, can be reached by buses, among other means – PKS Jarosław operates the Ustrzyki Górne – Sanok route. In Wetlina, another popular locality, you’ll also find minibuses running into the Bieszczady, which simplifies logistics, although they aren’t always perfectly on time (personal experience!). You can also, if planning a longer route, leave your car at the car park in Brzegi Górne and then catch a minibus towards Ustrzyki. As I mentioned earlier, the history of road development in the Bieszczady after the war is interesting; the former routes Wetlina – Berehy – Ustrzyki Górne and Dwernik – Berehy were in a truly, *truly* poor state, and the construction of the Great Bieszczady Loop road in 1962 and the road in the Caryńskie valley in 1963 significantly improved the region’s accessibility, although, naturally, it’s still not like being on a motorway today.

Accommodation and Overnight Stays Near the Bacówka

The area around Bacówka Caryńskie offers, importantly, a variety of accommodation options. You’ll find both traditional agritourism, where you can experience local life and cuisine, as well as guesthouses or cottages for rent – basically, something for every budget. Popular villages nearby, such as Ustrzyki Górne, Wetlina, or Brzegi Górne, offer a wide selection of accommodation. Although the bacówka itself doesn’t offer overnight stays in the classic sense, near Przełęcz Wyżniańska there’s the PTTK Bacówka pod Małą Rawką, which is one of the so-called “Moskałówki” – small, atmospheric PTTK mountain huts. You’ll find other such Moskałówki near Hon and in Jaworzec. The choice of accommodation depends on your preferences – whether you prefer to be closer to the trails, or rather in a quieter area with easier access – it’s worth thinking about this in advance. Many accommodation providers will also be happy to give you information about local infrastructure and attractions.

Active Leisure in the Area Around Bacówka Caryńskie

The location of Bacówka Caryńskie makes it an excellent base for actively discovering the Bieszczady. Picturesque hiking trails and interesting cycling routes await you, as well as many other opportunities to spend time amidst nature.

Hiking Trails Around the Bacówka: Exploring the Bieszczady

Hiking in the Bieszczady is, in my opinion, an unforgettable experience. As we’ve already mentioned, the shortest trail to Połonina Caryńska from Przełęcz Wyżniańska is a great option to start your Bieszczady adventure – it offers wonderful views with moderate effort. From Połonina Caryńska, you can continue along the red trail towards Ustrzyki Górnych or descend back to Przełęcz Wyżniańska, which is, incidentally, the most common choice.

Another popular route is the green trail from Przełęcz Wyżniańska to the Rawkas (Mała and Wielka), where extensive połoniny and beautiful views also await you. Along the way, you can stop at Bacówka pod Małą Rawką, that previously mentioned Moskałówka. For those with good fitness, Połonina Caryńska and Połonina Wetlińska make an ambitious, one-day trip, although, frankly speaking, descending to Brzegi Górne, located between the two połoniny, can be a bit of a logistical hassle if you’ve left your car elsewhere – planning is key! Incidentally, the Bieszczady offer many of the most beautiful trails in Poland, and the area around Bacówka Caryńskie is a perfect example of this.

However, remember to prepare appropriately – checking the weather and bringing a map are an absolute minimum, because the mountains, even the “gentle” Bieszczady, can surprise you!

• Shortest trail to Połonina Caryńska from Przełęcz Wyżniańska (green)
• Green trail from Przełęcz Wyżniańska to the Rawkas (Mała and Wielka)
• Red trail from Połonina Caryńska to Ustrzyki Górnych
• Combination of routes via Połonina Caryńska and Połonina Wetlińska
• Historical and nature trail from Nasiczne to Caryńskie

And so, while hiking the trail, it’s worth paying attention to the surrounding nature. For example, you might notice the “beech nursery”, meaning freshly germinating beech seedlings, which represent the hope for the future of Bieszczady forests.

Cycling Adventures in the Bieszczady: Trails and Routes

The Bieszczady are also a great place for cycling enthusiasts – if you’re ready for less-trodden paths. In the area around Bacówka Caryńskie, there’s a cycling path leading from Nasiczne to Przełęcz Przysłup, among others. And while it might not be a region as developed in terms of cycling infrastructure as some other mountain ranges (e.g. the Sudetes, just to mention one), you’ll find interesting gravel roads and less-used paths here that will allow you to discover the charm of the Bieszczady from the perspective of two wheels, although, beware, do remember that many hiking trails in the Bieszczady National Park are designated solely for pedestrian traffic, which, I won’t hide, can be a significant limitation for cyclists.

Bacówka Caryńskie and the Local Community

Bacówka Caryńskie, although a relatively new facility, fits into the long history of this place and has the potential to become an important element of contemporary local community life – isn’t that what it’s all about? After all, it combines tradition with tourism, contributing to the region’s development.

The Bacówka’s Impact on Local Economic Development

The presence of Bacówka Caryńskie attracts tourists, which naturally generates activity in the area and supports the local economy. Tourists visiting the Bacówka often use accommodation in nearby villages, buy local products (and I’m not just talking about cheese!), eat in restaurants, and use other services. In this way, by focusing on a local product, which sheep’s cheeses undoubtedly are, the Bacówka indirectly contributes to creating jobs and increasing residents’ incomes – a positive effect which, I hope, will strengthen. This is a continuation, albeit, strictly speaking, in a completely new form, of the economic activity that once thrived in the Caryńskie valley – from agriculture and pastoralism, through mills, the inn, charcoal burning, all the way to the operations of Igloopol. Past and present meet in this place, don’t they?

The Bacówka’s Cooperation with Local Producers

The pillar of the Bacówka’s operation is cheese production based on local raw materials and traditional methods. Although the knowledge graph mentions Highlanders from the Ukrainian Hutsul region being involved in production, which points to a specific cultural heritage – a fascinating thread, you’ll admit – the sale of cheeses at the bacówka itself and at local outlets, such as Zajazd pod Caryńską in Ustrzyki Górnych, testifies to the Bacówka’s integration into the regional economy. This activity supports the nurturing of cheese-making traditions and skills in the region, and also promotes Bieszczady products on a wider scale. In my opinion, this is a positive example of how tourism, if well thought out, can support local crafts and traditions instead of displacing them.

Bacówka Caryńskie – A Bieszczady Gem

Bacówka Caryńskie is a place of many faces, that’s a fact. It’s not just a point on the trail where you can rest and sample, ah, delicious sheep’s cheeses, but also a living testament to the history of the lost village of Caryńskie. Standing in its valley, it’s easy to feel the spirit of past generations, imagine the lives of former inhabitants, the faithful flocking to the church, the millers at the mills, or even the colourful figures from later, post-war history, such as Zdzisław Rados or the regulars of the hippie commune – a whole spectrum of human destinies.

The Bacówka’s location amidst the majestic Bieszczady Mountains, near Połonina Caryńska, Przysłup Pass, and the Koliba mountain hut, makes it an absolutely ideal hiking destination and a base for further exploring the Bieszczady National Park on many trips.

Whether you’re planning a short trip to the połonina, a longer hike along the trail towards Ustrzyki Górnych, or simply want to taste authentic Bieszczady cheeses and feel the unique atmosphere of this place, Bacówka Caryńskie will certainly enchant you – that’s a promise! Its atmosphere and products garner positive reviews among visitors. It’s a true Bieszczady gem, waiting for you to discover it, truly. Come, hike, taste, and let the Bieszczady steal a piece of your heart – because it’s worth it!