Suwalszczyzna is one of those places, you know, that can steal your heart in the blink of an eye. People say it’s a real paradise on Earth – and, well, what more can you say, we couldn’t agree more! This land, undulating as if a giant roller had passed over it, full of lakes, winding rivers and hills, with Suwałki, Sejny and Augustów nearby, is truly a perfect destination when you’re looking for an escape from everyday life. If you’re dreaming of some respite, breath-taking landscapes and lots, and I mean lots, of opportunities to spend your time actively, then Suwałki Landscape Park is waiting just for you. We’ve put together a little guide to this extraordinary region, we’ll tell you about its attractions, show you where to go on foot or by bike, and also suggest where to find comfortable accommodation.

Discover Suwałki Landscape Park: History and Geography

But before you set off on all these trails, it’s probably worth getting to know a bit about its history and trying to understand what exactly makes the landscape of Suwalszczyzna so, well, unique. Suwałki Landscape Park is, after all, not just about the sheer beauty of nature, but also an almost tangible testament to the powerful geological forces that were at work here thousands of years ago, and of course, human history, which has also left its mark.

The Origins of Suwałki Landscape Park: From Idea to Realisation

Suwałki Landscape Park is, believe you me, a source of pride for the entire Podlaskie Voivodeship, and indeed for all of Poland, as it was, after all, the first landscape park in our country, established back in 1976. Its establishment was a direct response to the pressing need to protect this unique post-glacial landscape, which in this very spot has been preserved in, I’d say, an almost perfect state. Or perhaps rather, in a remarkable way? Today, when visiting Suwałki LP, we have a truly unique opportunity to travel back in time, to see how our Earth looked thousands of years ago, simply shaped by that immense glacier. Because, you see, it’s no small feat.

The Unique Landscape of Suwalszczyzna: A Post-Glacial Legacy and its Formation

The landscape of Suwalszczyzna, to be honest, is primarily the work of a powerful ice sheet that came here from Scandinavia. It brought with it, as my geologist friend puts it, „tons of rocks and debris”, creating all these hills, eskers, and the specific depressions that are now filled by lakes. These almost fairy-tale landforms – such as the famous Turtul Esker or the terminal moraines – are simply visible at every turn when you walk around Suwałki Landscape Park. And those picturesque valleys? They too are the work of rivers, mainly the Czarna Hańcza and the Szeszupa, which patiently carved these soft post-glacial sediments over centuries, creating charming meanders and sometimes even deep gorges. And really, walking along the trails there, you can easily spot this incredible geological richness. It’s as if the Earth’s history is written in every little hill.

Suwałki Landscape Park: Attractions for Everyone. What to Look For Here?

Whether you’re one of those who prefer a peaceful break with a book by the water, or rather one of the tireless explorers of nature’s and history’s mysteries, Suwałki Landscape Park has something for everyone. It’s a true land of extraordinary places and unique views. Brilliant viewpoints, those incredible boulder fields – Bachanowo and Rutka – Poland’s deepest lake, Hańcza, charming nature trails, and those gravel cycling routes – it’s all just waiting for you to discover it. And what if I told you that’s just the tip of the iceberg?

The Most Beautiful Lakes: Hańcza, Szurpiły… and More!

Alright, the kingdom of Suwałki Landscape Park is, of course, its lakes. Without a doubt. Lake Hańcza is a true pearl, known first and foremost for being the deepest lake in Poland, measuring, believe it or not, some 106 metres deep. Its formation is, of course, owed to that stubborn glacier, which not only carved out this impressive reservoir but also, incidentally, left literally huge quantities of boulders on its shores. Interestingly, despite its depth, the water in Hańcza is crystal clear and positively invites you for a refreshing dip, and a municipal beach like the one in Błaskowizna is an ideal spot to spend time by the water. Today, Lake Hańcza is also, you could say, a mecca for divers, who are discovering a truly extraordinary underwater world in its depths, one that most of us have no idea about. By the northern part of the lake, you’ll also find the remains of a former manor park, and even the ruins of a 17th-century manor house, around which a nature trail gently winds, named ‘Trees and Shrubs of the Manor Park in Stara Hańcza’. And right next to the manor ruins? There’s a Cyclists’ Service Point (MOR), which probably best shows just how popular this spot is among those who enjoy travelling on two wheels. Around Hańcza, there are also several great viewpoints, such as the latest tower which was erected on Leszczynowa Mountain in Przełomka.

Another equally incredibly picturesque lake is Lake Szurpiły. It’s surrounded by picturesque, post-glacial hills of Suwalszczyzna, typical of the region. By Szurpiły, if you have a moment, it’s really worth delving into the interesting, somewhat mysterious history of the Yotvingian tribe. You can also simply immerse yourself in the wild nature of the smaller lakes nearby – Kluczysko, Jegłówek, or Jegłóweczek – above which lies the village of Szurpiły. Because it’s here that you have the chance to climb up to a brilliant viewpoint, located on the former hillfort, on Castle Mountain (Góra Zamkowa). The view from there? Pure poetry.

Unforgettable Tourist Trails: Hiking, Cycling, and Water Routes?

Suwałki Landscape Park is, without a doubt, a paradise for every hiker and every cyclist. There are so many hiking trails and cycling routes, it’s mind-boggling! They criss-cross the most beautiful corners of the park, sometimes leading through forests, sometimes by the water. For example, along the western shore of Hańcza, the Green Velo cycling trail gracefully winds its way – simply ideal for a longer, relaxed ride. There’s also the ‘To Castle Mountain’ cycling route (Na Górę Zamkową), which allows you to cycle around Lake Szurpiły, and the views along the way reward every effort. For those who prefer to travel the world on their own two feet, we recommend the trail to the sources of the Szeszupa. It starts in a small village called Malesowizna, and ends in Łopuchowo, passing by, among other things, old Evangelical cemeteries in Szeszupka and Łopuchowo along the way – that’s a bit of history too. Another super interesting nature trail, which we’ll talk about more in a moment, is the one leading through the Czarna Hańcza valley. This trail through the Czarna Hańcza valley is, for many, the most beautiful trail in the park. And although, surprisingly, some descriptions lack mention of water routes, the Czarna Hańcza is, after all, a popular river, ideal for kayaking or rafting, and the presence of so many lakes – like Hańcza or Jaczno (which you can see brilliantly from the ‘U Pana Tadeusza’ viewpoint in Smolniki), Kleszczowieckie, Kolje, Pert, or Czarne (there’s even a bathing area in Smolniki!) – creates a wealth of opportunities for water sports and simply enjoying being close to the water. Because what, if not water, is most relaxing? Exploring Suwałki Landscape Park, whether by bike or on foot, you simply have the chance for unforgettable experiences and, not least importantly, to take some truly beautiful photos.

Educational Trails: An Adventure for the Whole Family?

The educational trails in Suwałki Landscape Park are, I tell you, a fantastic way to get to know both the nature and the history of the region. They’re just right for both smaller and bigger children, and adults won’t be bored here either, I guarantee.

Let’s start with the one that’s right next to the SPK headquarters buildings in Turtul, by the Turtul Pond. It’s called ‘Turtul Tales’ (‘Opowieści Turtula’) and it is, let’s be honest, a must-see when you’re in Suwałki Landscape Park. Here you can see the ruins of an old mill, there’s a great viewpoint overlooking the famous Turtul Esker, and that old, probably a hundred-year-old, miller’s house, where the park’s directorate is located today. The Turtul Pond itself was formed by damming the Czarna Hańcza, which, as if it were nothing, flows down in cascades right in Turtul. It’s a rather… pleasant sight, if you like the sound of water.

Another exceptionally scenic route, which I’ve already mentioned, is the ‘Czarna Hańcza Valley’ educational trail (‘Doliną Czarnej Hańczy’). This trail starts by the Turtul Pond, in a tiny village called Malesowizna, and stretches all the way to Poland’s deepest lake, Hańcza. The hiking trail route itself, from Turtul to Błaskowizna, is about 3.5 kilometres one way and is, quite clearly, marked with the colour green. Along the way, you pass by, among other things, the aforementioned ruins of the water mill, the Turtul hill with its viewpoint, and also a 15-metre high viewing tower, also in Malesowizna.

And what about Szurpiły? In the village of Szurpiły, a blue educational trail starts – the one leading ‘To Castle Mountain’ (‘Na Górę Zamkową’), which, as the name itself indicates, leads straight to Castle Mountain, where the old hillfort is located. (The view from there? It’s worth it!)

At the Rutka Boulder Field (Głazowisko Rutka), which is also in Suwałki Landscape Park, you can walk along two educational trails – more specialised ones. One is ‘Rocks and Minerals of Suwałki Landscape Park’, and the other is ‘Lichens’. (Yes, lichens can be interesting!).

These educational trails are, believe me, a real adventure, during which you’ll learn loads of interesting facts. About the geology, the vegetation, the animals that live in Suwałki Landscape Park. Sometimes you can feel like a real explorer.

Suwałki Landscape Park: Deep in the Forest… What Will We Find There?

You know, besides all those lakes, the heart of Suwałki Landscape Park probably beats strongest deep within the forests and in those areas thickly criss-crossed by rivers. It’s there, I think, that nature shows its wild side most, and the traces of ancient history somehow magically intertwine with the landscape. It’s a bit like a different world.

Secrets of the Wilderness: Flora and Fauna of Suwalszczyzna. What’s Hiding There?

Suwałki Landscape Park is, no exaggeration, a true haven of peace, with wild, sometimes slightly untamed nature. These forests, which grow on this hilly terrain, conceal a richness of flora and fauna – typical of north-eastern Poland. And while I may not list all the species of plants or animals for you now, because that’s a topic for another story, believe me, the wild nature of Suwalszczyzna will certainly captivate anyone who seeks peace and truly longs for contact with nature. Here you can encounter numerous bird species, sometimes you’ll come across a rare protected plant, and with a bit, just a little bit, of luck, perhaps you’ll even spot some wild animals? Who knows? Walking along the forest trails, you can feel that real power of nature, the kind that we often miss in the city.

A Walk Around the Boulder Fields: Bachanowo and Rutka

In Suwalszczyzna, in several places, you might come across something we call boulder fields (głazowiska). These are unusual concentrations of post-glacial stones that were brought here all the way from Scandinavia by that great ice sheet. They are, I tell you, real geological curiosities, like souvenirs from those ancient times.

One of the most interesting of these is the Bachanowo Boulder Field, a nature reserve established back in 1972, right by the Czarna Hańcza river. And it’s this kind of landscape, a bit like something from another planet, that you’ll see at this extraordinary Bachanowo boulder field, which is, well, one of Suwalszczyzna’s most interesting attractions. The stretch of river here strongly resembles a mountain stream, with all these boulders forming small cascades – it’s a truly, and I mean truly, picturesque sight. Sometimes I feel like these stones are whispering old stories.

The second boulder field, equally worth noting, is the ‘Rutka’ Reserve, established a bit later, in 2001, in the area of what is the largest boulder field in the entire Suwałki Landscape Park. Although, alas, in the 1970s, the local State Agricultural Farm (PGR) tried to clear these surrounding areas of boulders, probably deeming them unnecessary, thankfully many of them survived. From the wooden viewing platform at the Rutka Reserve, there’s a great view overlooking the Szeszupa valley and the southern areas of Suwałki LP. Remember too that, as I mentioned earlier, you can walk around this boulder field on two specially prepared educational trails. It’s a really good way to understand what these stones are all about.

Unique Places: Old Mills, Manors, Orthodox Churches… Full of History

Suwałki Landscape Park is, you could say, a unique mosaic. A nature and history one. Because in addition to this amazing nature, the region conceals places with a truly rich past. Those ruins of a 17th-century manor house, located at the northern end of Lake Hańcza, which today belongs to Suwałki Landscape Park and is listed in the register of historical monuments, are quite a moving sight. A true testament to bygone times. A reminder that everything passes.

It’s also really worth, oh yes it is, visiting the village of Wodziłki. It’s inhabited by Old Believers (staroobrzędowcy), what you could call a branch of Orthodox Christianity that back in the 17th century didn’t accept religious reforms. Wodziłki holds an extraordinary history, linked among other things to the glittering golden dome of the molenna in the Szeszupa valley. This temple was built by Russians. The most important place that you simply must visit in Wodziłki is the wooden molenna from 1922 – reportedly the oldest in Poland, a bit like an Orthodox church, although not exactly the same. And you know, one of the customs that the Old Believers started here was weekly baths in a bania, which is a kind of steam bath. This place emanates such extraordinary peace and, well, distinctiveness. A completely different world.

Returning to Turtul for a moment, next to the ruins of the former mill, you’ll also see that hundred-year-old miller’s house I mentioned earlier. And in Szurpiły? There’s the Yotvingian Memory Chamber (Izba Pamięci Jaćwieskiej) – a small museum entirely dedicated to the history of the extinct Yotvingian tribe – which allows you to learn a bit about the secrets of this really interesting ethnic group. These are the kind of places that add depth to the park, aren’t they?

Suwałki Landscape Park: A Practical Guide. How to Tackle It?

To fully enjoy the charms of Suwałki Landscape Park, it’s a good idea, a really good idea, to plan your trip. Below you’ll find a few tips that I hope you’ll find useful. Just some that came to mind.

Where to Stay: Hotels and Agritourism in Suwalszczyzna

In Suwalszczyzna, thankfully, there are plenty of accommodation options. From hotels, the more traditional ones, in larger towns like Suwałki or Augustów, to really atmospheric agritourism farms, often located right in the heart of the park. Actually, these charming agritourism villages, like Szurpiły, Błaskowizna, or Smolniki, are probably the best places to simply relax close to nature, really close. Stara Pawłówka also offers a place to relax in this picturesque area, I know a thing or two about that.

Where to Eat: Restaurants with Regional Specialities, or What You Simply Must Try!

When in Suwalszczyzna, you simply must, I repeat, must try the regional specialities. There’s one king of the local cuisine – kartacze! These large, delicious, meaty potato dumplings. I’ve heard that the best ones are made, apparently, by Granny Ala. Is it true? You’ll have to find out for yourselves! Another local delicacy is sękacz, a cake baked layer by layer over an open fire, which due to its shape is sometimes compared to, no joke, Japan’s Mount Fuji. And in Smolniki? It’s worth visiting a regional restaurant there, ‘Gospoda Jaćwing’. They serve tasty regional dishes and, importantly, have a very friendly atmosphere. Highly recommended!

How to Plan Your Trip: Tips and Advice from the Heart

Planning a trip to Suwalszczyzna is, I tell you, a sheer pleasure. First and foremost, and this is absolutely essential, get yourself a good map of Suwałki Landscape Park. Seriously. With a map like that, or an online map, you’ll find all the most interesting attractions in Suwałki LP, the recommended regional restaurants, and those great places to stay I mentioned earlier, more quickly and easily. Also consider exactly how much time you want to set aside for exploring. For discovering the park’s main attractions alone – that is, Turtul, the boulder fields, or the lakes – it’s worth reserving at least two days. It’s also worth getting an idea of the estimated time it takes to reach the summit of Castle Mountain or the time required for individual trails. Well, unless you want to tackle longer hiking or cycling routes, in which case, naturally, you’ll need to plan more time. Don’t forget comfortable shoes – that’s key – appropriate clothing for all weathers, and, importantly, insect repellent. Evenings can be… intense. Also check beforehand how to get to your chosen locations, because, while charming, some roads in Suwalszczyzna can be… rather rural. Oh, and a personal note: the author of this text, thanks to her husband Przemek, who comes from Suwałki, loves coming to Suwalszczyzna, and Przemek passionately shows her the region’s greatest attractions – perhaps you have your own local guide too? It’s the best way to get to know a place!

Suwałki Landscape Park: Close to Nature, Close to Yourself. Why Come Here?

When visiting Suwałki Landscape Park, you have, I think, a unique opportunity. Not only to discover the beauty of Polish nature and the rich history of the region, but also to simply find peace. And balance. It is, I’m convinced, a place that encourages reflection, allows you to slow down, to really, you know, breathe.

An Oasis of Peace and Relaxation: The Ideal Place to Unwind?

Suwałki Landscape Park, with its wild nature and that specific post-glacial landscape, is a true oasis of calm. Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, surrounded by lakes that shimmer in the sun, and those rustling forests, it’s easy, surprisingly easy, to disconnect from everyday problems. Here you can just be, in the here and now. The clean air, the calming birdsong, the rustling of trees in the wind – it all makes you feel somehow… closer to nature. And through that, paradoxically, also closer to yourself. Places like Stara Pawłówka or those charming agritourism villages – Szurpiły, Błaskowizna, or Smolniki – provide ideal conditions for complete, undisturbed relaxation. Although, let’s be honest, mobile reception here can sometimes be… patchy. Which, when you think about it, might be a bonus, not a drawback?

Active Leisure: Water Sports, Hiking, Cycling. Plenty to Choose From?

For those who need more activity, who can’t sit still, Suwałki Landscape Park offers truly wide-ranging opportunities to spend time actively. Hiking along these picturesque trails, cycling along these varied routes, or perhaps water sports on those crystal clear lakes? Everyone, I’m sure, will find something for themselves here. Whether you’re looking for a challenging, long trail that will properly tire you out, or perhaps just a relaxed bike ride, maybe even with a dog? This region will probably satisfy all tastes. Remember too about the viewpoints – for example, the one in Turtul, or on Cisowa Mountain (Góra Cisowa), which they sometimes jokingly call the ‘Suwałki Fujiyama’. From these spots, there’s a truly unforgettable panorama of the entire Suwałki Landscape Park and the Szeszupa valley. A view that stays with you for a long time.

Suwalszczyzna: A Region Full of Charm and Mysteries. You Simply Must Visit.

Suwalszczyzna is, for me, a region that simply captivates. With its unique post-glacial landscape, its richness of nature, and that fascinating history that you can feel at every turn. By visiting Suwałki Landscape Park and its immediate surroundings, you simply have the chance to discover a multitude of varied attractions. From Poland’s deepest lake, Hańcza, through those unique boulder fields, right up to the traces of ancient cultures, like the molenna in Wodziłki or the Yotvingian Memory Chamber. It’s the kind of place where time seems to slow down, and every, even the smallest corner, hides some, well, mystery. It’s worth discovering the whole of Podlasie, the entire Podlaskie Voivodeship, remembering too the other gems of the region. Such as Wigry National Park with its famous Lake Wigry and the Monastery on Wigry, or Augustów – the most renowned health resort in the Podlaskie Voivodeship, which is a true paradise for cyclists, especially around Lake Białe Augustowskie or Lake Studzieniczne with the Sanctuary in Studzieniczna. I think you simply have to pack your bags and set off for Suwalszczyzna. It’s a region that delights at any time of year, including winter, when it’s covered in snow and ice. It’s a region that, I’m certain, stays in your memory for a long time. It really is worth it.