Wrocław? It is undoubtedly a unique city, pulsating with life and hiding many treasures, and one of the absolute brightest, attracting tourists from everywhere like a magnet, is the Panorama of Racławice. Guess what? It’s not just a giant canvas. It’s a real, tangible journey back in time, straight to a moment that was like a spark in Poland’s turbulent history.

If you are planning a visit to the capital of Lower Silesia, be sure to put this place on your list. But how to get there? Below you will find a handful of tips and a story that I hope will draw you in as much as it draws me in every time I think about this extraordinary painting. You will feel the spirit of the battle, and understand why the Panorama is so damn important (sorry for the expression, but sometimes emotions take over!).

About the Panorama of Racławice – history and creators

Every great work of art has its own, sometimes winding, road to fame. It was the same with the Racławice Panorama. Its history is as fascinating as the painting itself. For this painting went through truly turbulent times before it firmly established itself in Wrocław.

Why was it created at all? Mainly to commemorate an important historical event, something that could give encouragement to a nation under partition. You know, such a symbol of unity and strength.

The genesis of the painting: from idea to realisation

Who came up with this brilliant, albeit crazy, idea? The artist was Jan Styka, an artist from Lviv. His dream was to commemorate the centenary of the Battle of Racławice, the famous battle of 7 April 1794, which took place as part of the Kosciuszko Insurrection. He wanted to do it on a grand scale, you know, in a monumental way.

The project took real shape on the occasion of the General National Exhibition in Lviv in 1894. And to paint it? Something really huge was needed! Sailing canvas was brought in specially for this purpose, and all the way from Belgium. Imagine: 114 metres wide, 15 metres high and weighing around 3.5 tonnes! That’s a scale that is impressive even today, but back then? It must have been breathtaking.

A team of artists: Styka, Kossak and others

Sure, it is often said ‘Styka and Kossak’, and indeed Jan Styka invited the eminent specialist in battle scenes, Wojciech Kossak, to work with him. But the truth is that this is a collective work. It was not only their talent that created what we can admire today.

It also included other outstanding painters: Teodor Axentowicz, Ludwig Boller (or Ludwik Boller – variously reported), Tadeusz Popiel, Zygmunt Rozwadowski, Michał Sozański, Włodzimierz Tetmajer and Wincenty Wodzinowski. Each of them had his own piece of canvas to embrace, his own contribution to this gigantic undertaking. It is thanks to their joint work, this artistic vision, that this incredible impression manages to be created, as if the viewer is literally drawn into the middle of a historical event. Truly, art can work wonders.

Ready for a visit? Practical tips

A visit to the Racławice Panorama is more than just a simple museum tour. It is an experience that should be well planned so that nothing spoils this magical moment. How to prepare?

Tickets and opening times: how to plan your visit?

First of all, you will need a ticket. The price for an adult is, if I remember correctly, around £30, although prices can change, you know how it is. But what is important, by buying a ticket for Panorama, you also gain entry to other branches of the National Museum in Wrocław – the Museum of Contemporary Art in the Four Domes Pavilion and the Ethnographic Museum. It’s a mega opportunity to see a lot of interesting art and learn a bit of local history in one go. Just remember that Panorama is sometimes closed on Mondays, so it’s worth checking the current opening hours before you go – the museum’s website always has the latest information. (A guide friend of mine always says: “Check the hours before you leave home!”). There are rumoured to be holiday promotions in August, so keep an eye out for announcements if you’re planning a visit in the summer. And who gets in for free? Kids under 7, museum staff and members of the international associations ICOM and ICOMOS – that’s important information too.

Getting there and parking: how to get there conveniently?

Where exactly is the Racławicka Panorama? In the very heart of Wrocław, in the charming Juliusz Słowacki Park, at 11 Purkyniego St. There are many ways to get there. If you prefer public transport, the MPK network in Wrocław is really well developed. There is a stop nearby at the Voivodship Office, from where it is just a short walk. For those arriving by car, good news – there is plenty of parking in the area. You will find parking spaces on Plac Nowy Targ, at the Market Hall, near the Faculty of Philology (on Plac Nankiera), at the Academy of Fine Arts (Frycz-Modrzewski Street), at the Post Office (Krasińskiego Street), as well as on Kraińskiego Street and, of course, on Styki and Kossak Street, right next to Panorama itself. The location is just perfect, very close to Galeria Dominikańska, the Market Square and Ostrow Tumski. So after a visit to Panorama, you have the whole of Wrocław at your fingertips!

Guided tours: discover hidden stories

Just entering the rotunda is only the beginning of this adventure. The tour session, which lasts about half an hour, is more than just looking at a painting. It is an immersive experience enriched by the commentary of a narrator who guides you through the battle scenes and tells you about the creators. It usually starts in the Little Rotunda, where you can learn about the details of the battle itself and the history of the making of the painting, which is a great introduction. And then? You enter this main space. There, in the middle section, a plastic map of the area awaits you – it literally repeats the layout of the hills and valleys where the battle took place. Interestingly, it marks the positions of the troops with LEDs: yellow for the Poles, green for the Russians. This really helps to get an idea of the course of the clash. And this is where the magic happens – you listen to the historical story and at the same time look at Styka and Kossak’s artistic vision, feeling as if you were there, a hundred years ago, on the battlefield… well, actually more than two hundred years ago! (Easy to get the dates wrong, eh?).

The Racławice Panorama: a work of art and a symbol

The Racławice Panorama is much, much more than just a painting on a huge canvas. It is a piece of history encapsulated in an art form, a strong symbol of national identity and a fantastic example of panoramic painting from the 19th century. Its artistic value and historical significance make it an absolutely unique site in the country, and perhaps even the world.

The Battle of Racławice: history depicted in the painting

This battle, fought on 7 April 1794, is one of those Polish victories that gave hope in difficult times. The Kościuszko Uprising, commanded by Tadeusz Kościuszko – a legendary figure. Here, Poles, including the famous peasant troops armed with scythes (the so-called ‘kosynierzy’), faced the Tsarist army under General Tormasov. In the painting, literally within sight, you can see this heroism of the Poles, this incredible unification of different social strata – nobility and peasantry – who stood shoulder to shoulder to fight. You see the dynamics of the clash, the chaos of the battle, but also the picturesque (albeit cruel) landscape of the field. This work of art, this ‘Battle of Racławice’ painted on Belgian sailing canvas, captures the events with breathtaking fidelity.

Art and technique: how was the panorama created?

The creation of the Racławice Panorama in 1894 was not only an artistic challenge, but also a technical one! The team, led by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak, first spent time in the fields of Racławice, making sketches, catching the light, the topography, the atmosphere of the place. This was key to faithfully depicting reality. Later, work moved to a purpose-built rotunda in Lviv (in Stryjeński Park, designed by Ludwik Baldwin-Ramult – the steel structure came from Vienna, can you imagine?). It was there that painting on this huge canvas began.

But what creates this incredible impression of depth, this ‘wow’ effect that blurs the line between painting and reality? It’s a clever technique: all sorts of objects, props were placed at the foot of the panorama, which, as it were, ‘came out’ of the painting, combining the painterly illusion with the real space. This was innovative and allowed the viewer to feel as if they were there, in that field. Although… didn’t it require a great deal of precision and the work of hundreds of people to make it all come together? It certainly did!

Why is the panorama moving? Symbolism and meaning

The Racławice Panorama is indeed a reminder of the 19th century fashion for panoramas, but its meaning is much deeper. It was created at a time when Poland was not on the maps, under partition. It was meant to remind Poles that they have a common history, that they can fight, that unity is possible, regardless of whether one is a nobleman or a peasant. The victory at Racławice, although small on the scale of the uprising, became a symbol of hope, a symbol of the fight for freedom. And it is this symbol that has lasted for years.

The painting first saw the light of day in Lviv, but then? A turbulent history. The Second World War brought destruction, the bombardment of Lviv did not spare the Panorama, it was stored in the monastery. And when Lviv found itself in the Soviet Union after the war? The painting found its way to Wrocław, but… it stayed in the warehouses of the National Museum for many, many years. The authorities in the USSR (that is, the Soviet Union) did not look favourably on exhibiting the work, which was so strongly associated with Polish patriotism and the fight against Russia. It was only in 1985, after years of waiting, that Panorama was made available to the public again in Wrocław, in a specially designed pavilion, a rotunda, by Ewa and Marek Dziekoński. The fact that the Racławicka Panorama is actually in Wrocław is no coincidence. It has become an important part of the city’s identity, a showpiece of Lower Silesia, and for many people – a symbol of remembrance, a return to roots and a reminder of what is important.

Around the Panorama: what else to see in Wrocław?

A visit to the Racławicka Panorama is, yes, a great plan, but it’s also an excellent starting point for exploring Wrocław further. The city is full of fantastic sites, many of which are literally a stone’s throw from the rotunda.

National Museum in Wrocław: a wealth of collections

Remember what we said about tickets? The same ticket opens the doors to the other branches of the National Museum in Wrocław. The main museum building, by the way, stands right next to the Panorama, on Jan Evangelista Purkyniego Street. There you will find some truly impressive collections, often brought to Wroclaw after the war, largely from Lviv. The museum has several permanent exhibitions, such as:

• Silesian Sculpture from the 12th to the 16th century – with such a gem as the tombstone of Duke Henry IV Probus.
• Silesian Art from the 14th to the 16th century. – with the oldest painting they have, the Throne of Grace from 1350! (That’s pretty impressive, isn’t it?).
• Silesian art from the 16th to 19th centuries.
• European art – you can see works by masters from Italy, the Netherlands, France, Great Britain or Spain.
• Polish art from the 17th to 19th century. – mainly paintings that also came from Lviv, including works by Juliusz Kossak himself (a family talent?).
• Oriental art – where you can come across something as exotic as samurai armour.

And guess what? The largest painting in the entire National Museum is Jan Matejko’s work, “The Oath of Jan Kazimierz Lviv”. It depicts a scene from the Swedish Deluge. It really is something for lovers of history and large canvases.

Other attractions in Wrocław: what’s worth seeing nearby?

The location of the Racławice Panorama is simply golden! Just a short walk will take you to the Market Square, the heart of the city, which is bustling from morning to night, full of charming townhouses and pubs. Also close by is Ostrów Tumski – the oldest, this magical, historic part of Wrocław, where time passes a little slower and the architecture delights at every turn. And speaking of proximity, the National Museum is also right on the Oder, so it’s worth taking a stroll along the riverbank. Wrocław has plenty of attractions, from the modern fountains (although some turn their noses up at the fact that it’s just water), to the impressive Grunwald Bridge, to the Municipal Stadium where our team plays. But the area around Panorama itself? It’s already a gem – full of history, green parks and charming corners.

And let’s not forget the other museum branches – the Museum of Contemporary Art in the Four Domes Pavilion (admit it, getting it on the UNESCO list alongside the Centennial Hall is quite a feat) offers collections of Polish art after 1945, with names such as Witkiewicz, Hasior, Abakanowicz (those famous “Abakans”!), and Kantor. And the Ethnographic Museum at Generała Romualda Traugutta? It presents the fascinating culture and everyday life of the Lower Silesians – both the indigenous inhabitants, the German population from before the war, and the displaced people from the Borderlands who built this city anew. Actually, looking from a different perspective, Wrocław is also a city with an unusual film history – it was home to a legendary film studio, where such classics as “The Saragossa Manuscript”, “Ashes and Diamonds” and the cult trilogy about Pawlak and Karguly were made: “Sami swoi”, “Nie ma mocnych”, “Kochaj albo rzuć”. Maybe it’s worth thinking about this when walking along the streets that were filmed?

Public transport in Wrocław: how to get around the city?

Getting around Wrocław is really easy, even without a car. The public transport network is efficient and will get you to most of the key points. From the Panorama area, using the aforementioned Voivodship Office stop, it is easy to change to other lines and reach further attractions. When planning your visit, take a look at the map of connections – it will make life easier and allow you to move efficiently between the Market Square, Ostrów Tumski or other points on your list.

When visiting the Racławice Panorama, you are not just entering a building – you are making an extraordinary journey. A journey in space, because you are in Wrocław, but above all a journey in time. This monumental painting literally immerses you in the events of 7 April 1794, allowing you to feel the atmosphere of that battle and the uprising. It is a unique way to get to know a piece of Polish history, pay tribute to the heroes (Kościuszko at the top!) and see how art can transport you through the centuries.

In the Panorama Racławicka Museum itself (which, as a reminder, is a branch of the National Museum in Wrocław), in addition to the main work you can also see additional exhibitions. The Main Exhibition features exhibits from the period of the Kościuszko Uprising, models of minor battles and even an exhibition of ex-librises. Another interesting exhibition is “The Colours and Arms of the Armies Fighting at Racławice on 4 April 1794” – you can see what Polish and Russian soldiers looked like at the time, in period uniforms (although you have to be ready for… historical military realities). In the lobby, there is often an exhibition entitled “Tadeusz Kościuszko in Faleristics”, showing how the figure of Kościuszko was commemorated on all kinds of decorations and medals. Kosciuszko phaleristics is, believe it or not, a significant section in the iconography of this figure, and exhibits can come from surprising places – Poland, Australia, Belarus, France, Switzerland, the USA. This is often based on the collection of the Wrocław collector, Mr Krzysztof Lachowicz (“Kościuszko Iconography” – worth remembering!). What’s more, Panorama even organises international competitions for Kościuszko exlibrises, awarding the best ones. And then there are the Multimedia Presentations, which allow you to expand your knowledge of the Panorama and its creators, if you have a shortage of information.

The Kościuszko Uprising trail leads through Krakow, Szczekociny, Połaniec, Warsaw, Maciejowice – many important places. But it is in Wrocław, in the rotunda designed by Ewa and Marek Dziekoński, that you come face to face with this particular landmark moment. The Racławice Panorama? It is not just a painting. It is a vivid, moving history lesson, proof that art has the incredible power to transport us back in time. Isn’t that wonderful?