Are you looking for a place that defies convention?

If so, prepare for a journey into some slightly darker, though absolutely fascinating, corners of our Polish culture and folk art.

This time, we’re setting our sights on a one-of-a-kind location, focusing on depictions of a figure that stirs up a lot of emotion – the devil. The Museum of the Polish Devil ‘Przedpiekle’, hidden away somewhere in Warsaw, is a real treasure that is sure to interest every enthusiast of Polish folklore, art, or simply anyone who appreciates extraordinary and original stories.

This isn’t a typical museum institution, far from it! It’s more of a home, or specifically, a basement, that pulsates with life, passion, secrets, and of course… devils.

Interestingly, all these images of fiends didn’t cause offence, even among the priest and nuns who visited the Grąbczewskis. (I must admit, that fact always intrigued me).

Ready to discover this peculiar ‘przedpiekle’ on Earth?

Where did the devil come from in Warsaw? The story of the museum’s creation

The history of this extraordinary place is, you could say, just as colourful and complex as its collections themselves.

The Museum of the Polish Devil didn’t come into being by official decree or through a grant, but grew out of the immense, indeed almost obsessive, passion of one man.

A person who dedicated a significant part of his life to searching for, collecting, and documenting every possible representation of the devil in Polish culture.

It’s a beautiful story about how a private passion, one that goes beyond the boundaries of a mere hobby, can transform into something so exceptional that it gained recognition even at a state level.

It all started with… fascination?

It all really did start with a fascination that, I must admit, seems a bit… dark, but for Mr Wiktoryn Grąbczewski, the man behind it all, it became a life’s mission.

He began collecting these extraordinary images over half a century ago.

His home, and especially the basement, which he affectionately refers to as ‘Przedpiekle’ (isn’t that a fantastic name?), became a place where images of the fiend, one after another, gathered at a pace that, frankly, many would find alarming.

In time, this impressive private collection, as an ethnographer friend of mine puts it, ‘went beyond mere collecting’ and naturally evolved into the Private Museum of the Polish Devil.

Who is the man who… fell in love with devils? Wiktoryn Grąbczewski

Mr Wiktoryn is an extraordinary figure, not only because he is the owner and curator of this one-of-a-kind place, but also because he is a true polymath and a deep expert on the subject of the devil in Polish culture.

He comes from Łęczyca, a town that, like few others, is inextricably linked with the legend of Boruta, the devil who inhabits the cellars of its castle. Mr Wiktoryn’s grandmother also came from Łęczyca, which certainly, indeed almost certainly, had a huge influence on his initial interests.

He is the author of valuable studies on the devil, including two books: ‘Łęczyckie bajanie o Borucie Panie’ and ‘Diabeł polski w rzeźbie i legendzie’.

His passion for the subject is so strong that he unhesitatingly describes himself as… a friend of the Łęczyca devil.

It’s worth adding that in the day-to-day running of the museum and care of the collections, Mrs Zofia, his wife, who shares this extraordinary space and passion with him, is indispensable.

What’s hidden in the anteroom of hell? The museum’s collections in all their glory

Stepping across the threshold of the Museum of the Polish Devil ‘Przedpiekle’, or rather, entering its basement, we quite literally step into a world full of the most diverse images of the fiend.

The collection is impressive, not only due to its sheer size, as it’s the largest collection of its kind in Poland, but above all because of the unimaginable richness of forms, materials, and techniques.

The fact that this is one of only two such places in Europe (the other is in Lithuania) makes it absolutely unique on a continental scale.

From wood to paper: what kind of devil will we find here?

In the Museum of the Polish Devil, you’ll find devils made from just about everything imaginable – from classic wood, through ceramics, metal, right up to fabrics and paper.

The diversity of styles and techniques reflects not only their origin, but also how differently this figure has been perceived over the years and in various regions.

Because these are often works of folk art, souvenirs, toys, but also the works of professional artists. And, importantly, each of these exhibits, even the smallest, tells its own story about how the devil is perceived in various contexts and eras; it’s truly fascinating.

Highlights from the anteroom of hell: what’s worth seeing?

Among these, literally, thousands of collected exhibits, you’ll come across real rarities, but also things that involuntarily make the corners of your mouth lift into a smile.

Because the museum prides itself not only on works of art in the traditional sense, but also on items with a distinct twinkle in their eye.

Mr Wiktoryn proudly displays on one shelf figurines representing various politicians, regardless of their party affiliation – there are figures from the left, liberal ones, and, of course, from the right, such as Lech Wałęsa, Jacek Kuroń, Tadeusz Mazowiecki, Józef Oleksy, and Leszek Balcerowicz.

Particular, indeed striking, attention is drawn to figurines of Hitler with horns and a tail glued on, which is perhaps the best example of folk humour and a specific way of dealing with traumatic history through… well, literal diabolisation.

Mrs Zofia, in turn, can boast, as Mr Wiktoryn says, of her ‘devilish wine glass’ – a double vessel for wine, with a red devil for red wine and a white one for white wine (ingenious in its simplicity!).

All the exhibits are, it’s worth noting, meticulously described and catalogued; they even have their numbers on the bottom, which shows how professionally, despite everything, this collection is approached.

What’s more, all these fascinating cultural assets were already entered into the heritage register in 1979 by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage, and purchases were also supported by grants, which only confirms their value.

When the devil meets the master: Mleczko, Hasior, and others in the collection

You won’t believe it, but in the collections of the Museum of the Polish Devil, you’ll also find works by artists known and respected throughout Poland.

You can admire devils that came from the hand of Andrzej Mleczko, for instance, a cartoonist known, or rather loved, for his satirical drawings.

Mr Wiktoryn, with his characteristic smile, often recalls his meeting with Mleczko and the drawing the artist drew specially for him.

Another outstanding artist whose works enrich this extraordinary place is Władysław Hasior – his works always make a huge impression.

The museum also collects works by Paweł Wróbel, an artist described as a primitivist, a painter who even travelled to France with his plein-air works.

Interestingly, many of these exhibits are donations from the artists themselves, although some are also bought, using private funds, or, less often, through grants, because the devil, it seems, doesn’t always readily give up his images.

Why ‘przedpiekle’? On the deeper meaning of the museum

The Museum of the Polish Devil ‘Przedpiekle’ is more than just a collection of intriguing objects – it’s a space that seems to live its own life, tell stories, and above all, provoke thought about the role the devil has played and continues to play in our culture.

A basement out of a story: ‘przedpiekle’ from the inside

The museum itself, if you’re ready for unconventional locations, is located in Warsaw, specifically in Mokotów, in the basement of a rather ordinary tower block at Bukowińska 26.

The term ‘Przedpiekle’, by which Mr Wiktoryn named this place, in itself adds an extraordinary, and indeed, let’s admit it, somewhat mysterious and intriguing character.

The very image of a devil on the basement door gives a clear signal – we are entering another world.

A world full of years’ worth of collected testimonies of folk imagination and art, which, although the space is quite cramped (that must be admitted honestly), can draw you in for hours.

The phenomenon of ‘przedpiekle’: not just exhibits, but also discussion

Mrs Zofia often emphasises the ethnographic nature of the museum, and that’s true, but is that really everything?

In my opinion, the Museum of the Polish Devil has become something more – a true cultural phenomenon.

A place where, in a surprising way, different perspectives on the figure of the devil meet – its role in beliefs, art, history.

The collections inevitably provoke discussion, inviting reflection on how we perceive evil, symbolism, and even ourselves.

It’s a space, and this seems crucial, open to dialogue – evidence of this includes, for instance, the aforementioned visits by clergy members who, contrary to appearances, were not offended, as well as the visit of a religious neighbour who belongs to ‘Catholic Action’.

Isn’t it fascinating how a figure traditionally associated with pure evil can become, in the right context, an object of calm, and I dare say, even joyful, cultural reflection?

The devil on the road: exhibitions and international recognition

Although the Museum of the Polish Devil ‘Przedpiekle’ has its permanent Warsaw base, its collections are by no means ‘imprisoned’ in the basement.

Mr Wiktoryn’s collection has travelled the world, exhibited abroad – it could be seen, among other places, in Slovakia, Italy, Sweden, Bulgaria, and Lithuania.

Mr Wiktoryn adds with undisguised pride that one of the exhibitions even took place in Rome itself, at the Polish Institute, not far from the Vatican!

These international exhibitions clearly show that this unique collection has gained wide recognition, and the theme of the devil, though deeply rooted in Polish folklore, has universal cultural significance, wouldn’t you agree?

The devil in (Polish) history and culture

The figure of the devil, whether we like it or not, is deeply rooted in Polish culture – from ancient legends to entirely contemporary depictions.

The Museum of the Polish Devil illustrates this perfectly, allowing us to trace, as if on the palm of our hand, how the image of the fiend has changed, evolved, over the centuries.

From Boruta to… a politician? The devil in Polish folklore and beyond

In Polish folk culture, the devil is often not solely, in a black and white sense, the personification of evil.

Quite the opposite; in folk tales, he can be mischievous, cunning, and sometimes, surprisingly, even helpful, although, it’s true, he usually has some strongly devilish goal of his own in mind.

After all, it’s said that the devil is bad for the bad and good for the good – simple, isn’t it?

The aforementioned legend of Boruta from Łęczyca, or the story of the devil who, supposedly, tried to extinguish the Tumska church using… a ‘hosepipe’ from his tail, are just the tip of the iceberg of his presence in our folklore.

And the collections of the Museum of the Polish Devil clearly demonstrate that we Poles often love precisely these jokers, and the image of the devil is often domesticated, and even, perhaps surprisingly, humorous.

Polish history seen… through devilish eyes

The collection, and here I’m thinking especially of those figurines of politicians, allows for some truly interesting, and at times even bitter, reflections on Polish history.

On how society perceived, or rather judged, power over the years – it’s fascinating.

Placing these, let’s face it, devilish attributes on public figures, regardless of their rank, is a form of sharp commentary, satire, and sometimes simply folk judgement – straight from the shoulder, eh?

By collecting these unconventional ‘portraits’, the Museum of the Polish Devil becomes a sort of funhouse mirror, reflecting, presented in a unique, devilish way, historical and social tensions, fears, but also hopes.

The devil in brush and word

The devil, it’s hard to deny, has inspired artists and writers for centuries, appearing in the most diverse forms.

In the Museum of the Polish Devil, we see his presence in sculpture, painting, graphics – the works of Andrzej Mleczko or Władysław Hasior are just examples – and even in art often described as naive, such as the paintings of Paweł Wróbel.

And then there are Mr Wiktoryn Grąbczewski’s own works, both his collecting efforts and literary studies, which constitute an important, indeed crucial, contribution to the documentation and analysis of this extraordinary image.

These collections clearly demonstrate how the figure of the devil permeates various fields of art and literature, becoming, despite everything, a universal, albeit locally interpreted, motif.

How do people react to the devil? The museum in a social perspective

A visit to the Museum of the Polish Devil ‘Przedpiekle’ is, it must be said, an experience that doesn’t leave you indifferent.

It certainly evokes strong emotions, but also, crucially, provokes thought.

It’s a place that enters into a surprising dialogue with very different social groups and their often conflicting value systems.

Does the devil stir emotions? Reactions to the museum

One might, at first glance, think that the idea of a museum dedicated to… well, yes, the devil, in Poland, a country with strong religious traditions, might cause quite a bit of, to put it mildly, controversy.

But, as the examples of visits by a priest, nuns (yes, they really were there!), as well as a religious neighbour from ‘Catholic Action’ clearly demonstrate, Mr Wiktoryn’s collections present the devil mainly in a folkloric and cultural context.

Which allows, importantly, for a reception free from dogmatic prejudice, focused on art and tradition.

Isn’t it fascinating how a figure traditionally associated with pure evil can become, in the right context, an object of calm, and I dare say, even joyful, cultural reflection?

How do you feel when entering ‘przedpiekle’?

Entering ‘Przedpiekle’, you feel a bit like, without wishing to sound exaggerated, Indiana Jones, discovering unknown, extraordinary worlds.

The density of exhibits, their seemingly endless variety, and their uniqueness mean that there’s no boredom here, not even for a moment.

We can confidently say that upon leaving this place, we are much richer – with a new perspective on the figure of the devil in Polish culture, a wealth of interesting facts, and a smile on our face.

It’s an experience that, I assure you, remains long in the memory and, importantly, encourages you to share it with others.

• The cramped, yet wonderfully atmospheric, basement space, which enhances the feeling of being immersed in the world of devils.
• The astonishing variety of exhibits – made from the most diverse materials, from different eras, in various styles.
• The opportunity to see, right alongside folk, often naive, artistry, works by artists of international renown.
• The politician figurines! These are perhaps the most memorable, humorous, and satirical representations of public figures.
• The authentic, indeed infectious, passion of the Grąbczewskis, which makes a visit a true, human, story.

Can the devil unite faith and art? On dialogue in the museum

The Museum of the Polish Devil, by presenting such a wide, and at times surprising, range of depictions of the devil – from those deeply rooted in folklore, through humorous, artistic, right up to satirical ones – naturally becomes a place conducive to dialogue.

It allows for a confrontation between a viewpoint based on religious beliefs, where the devil is, unquestionably, the personification of evil, and a purely cultural, ethnographic, or finally, artistic perspective, where the same figure takes on completely, indeed even diametrically, different meanings.

And the example, here we return to it again, of visits by clergy members, clearly shows that such dialogue is not only possible, but, what’s more, can be incredibly inspiring and fruitful.

What next for the devil? On the future of the museum

The fate of such a unique place, and the Museum of the Polish Devil undoubtedly is one, always raises questions about the future – how to maintain, develop, and perhaps one day pass on, a collection gathered with such enormous passion?

The devil at a crossroads? Plans and hopes for the future

Mr Wiktoryn, it’s worth knowing, at one point seriously considered transferring his collections to the Museum in Łęczyca.

However, for various, sometimes perhaps mundane, reasons, this unfortunately didn’t happen.

Fortunately, his son, seeing, no doubt, the immense value of the collection, said something that offers huge hope for the future: ‘Dad, the devil is for collecting, not for selling’.

These words seem to guarantee the continuation of this extraordinary passion and, most importantly, the preservation of the collections in their entirety.

The development of the Museum of the Polish Devil certainly involves the further, painstaking, collection of exhibits (often acquired from artists for payment or, which can be complicated, thanks to information found in ethnographic journals), and who knows, perhaps in the future, the dream of a larger, more accessible, exhibition space will be realised.

Does the devil’s museum fit with others? A place on the map

The Private Museum of the Polish Devil ‘Przedpiekle’ undoubtedly occupies an absolutely unique place on Poland’s museum map.

It’s an institution with such a specific, and for many probably surprising, theme, that it defies all standard classifications.

As one of only two such museums in the whole of Europe, it has, in my opinion, enormous potential to become an important, indeed even a key, point on the tourist trail for anyone looking for original, unusual, and intriguing cultural attractions.

Its uniqueness, paradoxically, is its greatest strength.

Why is this devil so important? On the legacy of ‘przedpiekle’

The fact that the collections of the Museum of the Polish Devil were, a long time ago now, entered into the heritage register as official cultural assets, perhaps best highlights their immense, indeed crucial, significance for Polish heritage.

Mr Wiktoryn Grąbczewski’s collection is, in reality, not just a collection of more or less fascinating objects.

It is, above all, tangible evidence of folk imagination, beliefs, art – all that which, over the centuries, has shaped such a complex Polish culture.

This museum constitutes, without a shadow of a doubt, an extremely important element for folklore researchers, cultural anthropologists, and art historians in Poland and beyond.

The devil: more than you think. A few words to conclude

Visiting the Museum of the Polish Devil ‘Przedpiekle’, it’s hard not to realise how complex, multi-dimensional, and sometimes simply… human, the figure of the devil is in our Polish culture.

It’s not just a symbol of absolute evil, taken straight from religious narratives, by any means.

It’s also the hero of countless folk tales, a figure who can be satirical, an inspiration for artists (the well-known and the lesser-known), and finally, a reflection of our human fears, but also, paradoxically, hopes.

The collections gathered by Mr Wiktoryn Grąbczewski give us a unique, and I dare say, even priceless, opportunity to look at the fiend from a completely different perspective – often with a twinkle in our eye, seeing in him rather the mischievous Boruta, or, more bitterly, an ironic reflection of our own human flaws, rather than that terrifying prince of darkness who tries to scare us… well, you know who.

It’s perhaps the best lesson in how culture can tame even the most terrifying motifs and transform them into something of its own, something that is surprisingly close to us, to people.