Anyone who has travelled around Asia, and especially Thailand, will have images etched in their minds forever. For me, one of these is undoubtedly the sight of a woman with an unnaturally long neck, adorned with shiny brass rings. It’s fascinating and intriguing, yet at the same time, it forces you to think and ask questions. What exactly does a long neck mean for a woman from the Karen tribe? Is it merely an ancient symbol of beauty and status, or perhaps rather a symptom of a painful tradition, fuelled by us, the tourists? We wonder whether a long neck in a young woman today is still a source of pride, or merely a tragic necessity. Let’s try to look a little deeper, beyond this exotic facade, to understand what the situation of these women is truly like, and what our role is in all of this.

Who exactly are the ‘long-neck’ women and where does their tradition come from?

Before we pass any judgement, it’s worth stepping back in time. Because these women are not simply a tourist attraction. They are an ethnic group with their own rich history and culture, who find themselves at a crossroads in life, somewhere between a struggle for survival and complete commercialisation.

The people we are talking about are the Padaung, one of the sub-groups of the Karen (or Kayah). Interestingly, their true homeland isn’t Thailand, but the mountainous regions of present-day Myanmar (Burma). For decades they fled civil war and persecution, seeking refuge on the Thai side of the border. And it is here, as refugees, that they began a new, very complicated chapter in their lives. The Thai government eventually granted them special visas, which, however, as it turned out, came with a host of restrictions.

The tradition of wearing brass (or rather copper) rings itself goes back hundreds of years, although its origins are shrouded in mystery. One legend has it that the heavy coils were meant to protect women from tiger attacks, as when hunting, they would most often target the neck. Other theories speak of social status – the more rings, the wealthier and more important the family. For the women of the Karen tribe themselves, a long neck simply became a canon of beauty and a symbol of identity. Girls receive their first rings as early as around the age of five, with more being added until they reach 21 years old. Today, however, this tradition has gained a new, bitter dimension – it has become a way to earn money and survive in the tourist villages. It’s worth noting that this tradition exclusively concerns women; a long neck in men is not distinguished in any way within this culture.

How does it work and what was life like before tourism?

Contrary to popular myth, the brass coils do not actually lengthen the cervical vertebrae. Such a process would in fact be anatomically impossible and deadly dangerous. The entire illusion of an extraordinarily long neck is the result of immense weight (up to several kilogrammes!) resting on the shoulders. It is under the influence of this pressure that the collarbones and upper ribs gradually lower, deforming and compressing the chest cavity. This process creates the optical illusion of an elongated, „giraffe-like” neck, which so fascinates people from the outside (although from a medical point of view, this is a condition close to illness and permanent disability, not just a postural defect). Similar body modification practices, though with a different cultural significance, can also be found among some tribes in Africa.

Before these villages became tourist destinations, the lives of the Karen revolved around farming. According to their mythology, the founder of their people taught them how to cultivate the land, and to this day, many who live outside the tourist circuit are primarily involved in growing rice, vegetables, or fruits. What’s more, they are incredibly talented craftspeople, creating beautiful textiles. Their culture is deeply rooted in animism and ancestor worship, although over time many have also adopted Buddhism or Christianity.

Visiting a ‘long-neck’ village: what’s it like in practice?

The ‘long-neck’ villages are one of the must-see spots on the tourist map of northern Thailand. Travel agencies compete fiercely with their offers, promising an encounter with the exotic and with women with long necks. It’s worth knowing, however, what it’s like behind the scenes and where our money actually goes.

Organising the trip and what you see on site

Most of these showcase villages are located in the provinces of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Getting there from Chiang Mai takes about 3 hours, it’s a bit shorter from Chiang Rai. You can go there independently by scooter, or book an organised tour. The villages themselves are often picturesquely located amongst rice fields, which only enhances the impression of a rural idyll. Entry usually costs around 300 Baht. Upon entering, you follow a designated path, alongside which women sit in wooden huts. They pose for photos, weave scarves, and sell handicrafts. Tourists, fascinated by the women’s appearance, often focus on superficial details, such as hairstyles adapted to the rings, and ask about the weight of these ornaments, without noticing the drama of the situation. As a guide friend of mine from Chiang Mai puts it: „They sell you a postcard with a smile, but behind the scenes, no one is smiling anymore.” Unfortunately, you have to be aware that only a small percentage of the souvenirs are authentic products. Most is cheap mass-produced stuff from China. The money from the tickets? A large portion of that goes to the owners of these „living museums”.

Often, even before entering the Karen village, you’ll encounter representatives of other hill tribes, such as the Akha or Lahu. Dressed in their colourful traditional clothing, they also try to sell things. This shows how tourism has become the main, and sometimes the only, source of income for many minorities in the region.

Controversies, or the dark side of the ‘human zoo’

Behind the smiles and flashing cameras lies a reality that has little to do with the idyllic picture. Increasingly, and more loudly, people are talking about the ‘long-neck’ villages as ‘human zoos’, and even a form of modern slavery.

Human Rights and Refugee Status

For the women from the Padaung tribe who fled Burma, their legal status in Thailand is essentially life in limbo. They were deliberately moved from official refugee camps to tourist villages. In fact, looked at from another perspective, they were imprisoned within them. For the most part, they have no chance of getting a Thai identity document, which closes off their path to legal employment, free travel within the country, as well as to normal education or healthcare. They are prisoners in their own exotic prison.

By visiting these places and paying for entry, we become, often unknowingly, part of a system which many non-governmental organisations openly call modern slavery. The women are dependent on the village owners, who provide them with food and a symbolic „wage”. Their role? To be an attraction. And any behaviour that spoils this picture, such as talking to tourists about their real situation, can mean losing their already meagre income. The biggest threat is the confiscation of money from a woman who decides to remove her rings.

This entire system is driven by two forces: private businessmen and the Thai government, which profits from tourism, treating these villages as a unique „product”. This quiet acquiescence makes change dreadfully difficult. The government, which exploited the Burmese women and confined them to these villages, profits from their misfortune, while simultaneously promoting Thailand’s image as a tolerant country. What an irony, isn’t it?

Voices of Opposition and Tourist Awareness

Human rights organisations in Thailand have been raising the alarm for years. They point to violations of basic rights, restriction of freedom, and the reduction of an entire culture to the role of a commercial show. These voices, as well as reports by courageous journalists, such as Martyna Wojciechowska, are slowly reaching the awareness of tourists. More and more people are asking themselves if they truly want to be part of this practice.

Visit or Boycott? The Conscious Traveller’s Dilemma

The decision whether to visit a ‘long-neck’ village is one of the most difficult you can make in northern Thailand. There are no easy answers here. On one hand, a complete boycott could deprive these women and their families of their only, albeit meagre, source of income. On the other hand, every entrance ticket bought is a signal that this is acceptable, which perpetuates a pathological system. By paying for entry, we legitimise the existence of ‘human zoos’ and support a business based on exploitation. It’s a bit like the famous Tiger Temple, which was only closed after years of international protests. Under the guise of monastic care, wild animals were drugged so tourists could take photos with them. It’s thought-provoking that animal rights often stir us more than violations of human rights?

Conscious tourism is the art of choice. Instead of visiting commercial ‘living museums’, you can look for projects based on community-based tourism. There are initiatives where you can learn about the real lives of the inhabitants and support them by buying handicrafts directly from them. This is a way for our money to go where it’s truly needed.

Northern Thailand: What Else is Worth Seeing in the Region?

Fortunately, northern Thailand is much more than controversial attractions. It’s a land of phenomenal landscapes and extraordinary architecture. By giving up a visit to a ‘long-neck’ village, we open the door to discovering other equally fascinating places.

Wonders of Chiang Rai: The White Temple, The Blue Temple, and The Black House

Chiang Rai is an artistic pearl of the north, and it is here you can see the absolutely phenomenal White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), which looks like it’s from another planet (entry 50 THB). Right next to it is its contrast – the mesmerising Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten), which you can enter for free. And nearby awaits the dark and intriguing Black House (Baan Dam), a museum full of art made from wood and animal hides (entry 50 THB).

The Golden Triangle and Green Landscapes

Not far from Chiang Rai lies the famous Golden Triangle, where from one spot you can see the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Burma. It’s an area with a turbulent history, once a centre for the opium trade. Although opium cultivation is illegal in Thailand today, according to the UN, neighbouring Burma is still one of the largest producers of this substance. You can learn about the region’s history at the fascinating Opium Museum (entry approx. 80 THB). Beyond that, the north is primarily about nature. It’s worth travelling to Mae Sai, visiting the Monkey Cave or the ruins in Chiang Saen. But the real feast for the eyes are the endless, terraced rice fields and tea plantations, which can easily compete with those in Sri Lanka or India. These are perfect places to catch your breath.

A Look at the Land of Smiles from a Different Perspective

Thailand, the Land of Smiles, has at least two faces. One is the paradisiacal beaches and wonderful people. The second, much darker one, is a world where culture and people become a commodity. The story of the Karen women is the most painful example of this. And it shows how great a responsibility rests on us, as travellers. Because it depends on our decisions – where we go and what we spend our money on – whether we support systems based on exploitation. Perhaps over time, when tourists stop visiting these showcase villages, and the Padaung people, who are increasingly returning to their homeland in Burma, find a better future, these sad attractions will simply disappear from the map of Thailand. Hopefully, this will happen as soon as possible.