A warm welcome to our travel blog! This time, we’re taking you on an extraordinary journey through the picturesque corners of the Low Beskids (Beskid Niski) and the Sądecki Beskids (Beskid Sądecki), in search of real treasures – the wooden Lemko churches. These charming sanctuaries, scattered across the Beskids, are a living testament to the rich history and culture of the Lemkos, an ethnic group who have inhabited these Carpathian territories for centuries. Prepare to immerse yourselves in the world of wooden sacred architecture, discover the secrets of log construction, and admire their unique interiors. Find out why some of these churches have made it onto the prestigious UNESCO list and why it’s worth following their trail, perhaps by bike, along the quiet roads of Lemko Land (Łemkowszczyzna). Our articles are dedicated to the presence and history of these fascinating structures, and we are happy to share our experiences and knowledge with you. Last year, we travelled around southern Poland and visited churches (what an adventure that was!), and the Low Beskids turned out to be one of the most beautiful corners hiding a wealth of secrets.

Secrets of Lemko Church Architecture

Lemko architecture, although it may seem cohesive at first glance, hides many nuances and is a testament to centuries of evolution. These churches, built mainly of wood, reflect both local building traditions and external influences – after all, borders here were always fluid, and people and ideas travelled. Ryszard Brykowski, a renowned scholar in the field, identified several types of churches based on their external structure, which – let’s be honest – allows for a better understanding of their diversity and helps to systematise it all somewhat.

Wood, Shingle, and Metal Sheeting: Materials Building Sacred History

Traditionally, until the end of the 18th century, the Lemkos built their churches almost exclusively from wood, mainly coniferous wood – a material readily available to them. It is wood that is the fundamental material shaping this sacred history, simply the essence. The church walls were covered with shingles, as were the roofs. The roofs of individual steps, the spires, and tower helmets, as well as gable roofs and other coverings, were clad with shingles, creating a characteristic, sometimes magical-looking, peeling surface. Stone-built churches in Lemko Land are rare and only appear from the end of the 18th century onwards, which is directly linked to the actions of Austrian Emperor Joseph II and his reforms, which after all also impacted building matters. Today, you can also see churches where metal sheeting covers the domes and finials, and sometimes also the roofs, which is a later, often less aesthetically pleasing addition (I remember a guide once saying that for purists it’s almost sacrilege), although it undoubtedly protects the wood from atmospheric factors such as wind or snow, which, let’s face it, is important for the survival of these structures.

Secrets of Log Construction: From Foundations to Dome

Wooden churches were built using log construction, where walls were formed from horizontally laid logs joined at the corners, which was a tried and tested local method. A characteristic feature of the oldest churches is the placement of window openings only on the southern side, which, according to old beliefs, was meant to protect the churches from evil coming from the north – quite a fascinating idea, isn’t it? Windows placed on both sides only appear in the second half of the 18th century. The spatial layout of a Lemko church is usually tripartite, with the chancel to the east, a nave wider than the chancel, and to the west the narthex, above which the tower rises. An inseparable element, seemingly indicative of the Lemko church style, is precisely the tower, integrally linked with the church from the west. Characteristic is the gradual upward layering of the volumes of its individual parts, from east to west, from the chancel, through the nave, to the tower, which gives them such a characteristic, dynamic shape. Towers situated above the narthex are not an integral part of Lemko architecture, but are a borrowing from the church architecture of Lesser Poland – interesting how cultures intertwine, even in such a subtle way. Originally, churches did not have towers above the narthex. Log domes, most often four-sided or less frequently eight-sided, are another characteristic feature, adding a sense of lightness to them. These domes are usually topped with slender, onion-shaped helmets, often with pseudo-lanterns. Roofs of this type should be associated with the 17th–18th centuries. Tower helmets are limited to two basic shapes: tent-shaped and onion-shaped with a false lantern. Each of the towers was topped with a cross. The 19th century brought simplifications in the construction of Lemko churches. During this period, Austrian patterns began to penetrate Lemko Land, which is visible, for example, in a certain standardisation of forms. Despite this, all Lemko churches clearly retained their basic features allowing them to be distinguished from other types of Carpathian church architecture, which testifies to the strength of local tradition.

The Most Beautiful Lemko Churches: Gems of the Low Beskids

The Low Beskids, as well as parts of the Sądecki Beskids and Bieszczady mountains, are areas where we can find these extraordinary wooden architectural gems, scattered across the landscape like precious stones. Although many of them were relocated or destroyed as a result of tumultuous history, especially after Operation Vistula (tragic times…), we can still admire many preserved objects, some of which are considered the most beautiful churches in Poland and Slovakia. Aren’t they worth seeking out? The objects inscribed on the UNESCO list are of greatest historical and artistic significance.

Inscribed on the UNESCO List: Owczary, Kwiatoń, and other wonders

We are delighted to announce that as many as eight wooden churches located in Poland have been inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List. This is surely a great honour and confirmation of their value. Five of these objects are located in Lemko Land. We’d like to give you a brief history of five churches, three of which are precisely the most magnificent ones, belonging to UNESCO, as well as two others which, in our opinion, deserve special attention, because, after all, the UNESCO list isn’t the only thing that matters:

• Church of the Protection of the Mother of God in Owczary: It was built in 1653. It is an object inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list. It also received the Prix Europa Nostra award. The tower was added over a hundred years after the church was built and looks as if it were built into the narthex, which is quite unusual, isn’t it? Inside, we can admire an 18th-century iconostasis, as well as side altars with icons of Saint Nicholas, the Mother of God, and Christ. The icon depicting Christ dates from 1664 – a significant piece of history!
• Church of Saint Paraskeva in Kwiatoń: Dated to the second half of the 17th century, this church, due to its shape and finish, is considered not only the most beautiful Western Lemko church, but often the most beautiful Lemko church overall. Thanks to its exemplary form, it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013. A date on one of the tower beams indicates that it was probably added to the church in 1743, and the year 1700 is considered the completion year of the church construction. The external decorations, wooden shingle ‘scales’ and onion domes, were executed with great care; it’s clear that true masters worked here. All three finials are adorned with crosses. Around the church, you can see a log fence with two small gates, both of which have roofs covered with shingles, topped with domes – it’s such a charming detail, you see. Inside, there is a beautiful iconostasis from 1904 by Michał Bogdański and a unique polychromy from 1811. Contacting guide Mr Jan Hyra allows for visiting on specific days of the week, which is a great option, because who better to tell the story than someone who lives here?
• Church of Saint Michael the Archangel in Brunary Wyżne: This church, currently serving as the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, dates from the 18th century. In 2013, it was inscribed on the UNESCO list due to its architecture and its ideal preservation. The church in Brunary, dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel, is situated by the Biała river, on a small hill, in a beautiful setting. Its origins date back to the 17th century (the first church from 1616), although the present church was built in 1797. Inside, we can admire a Baroque iconostasis from the 18th century. Two altars (Pieta and Transfiguration) date back even further to the 17th century, so they are older than the current building, interesting, isn’t it? The Baroque pulpit is decorated with figures of the Evangelists. The oldest fragments of the beautiful ornamental polychromy are found in the nave. The church can be visited from May to October. The guide is Patrycja Bochenek – it’s worth drawing on her knowledge.
• Church of Saint James in Powroźnik: A wooden church built in 1600, it is the oldest existing church in the Polish Carpathians. Its present shape dates from 1814. It possesses features of Western Lemko architecture: a tripartite structure, with a tent-shaped roof covered with wood, windows on the southern side – a classic of its kind. The bell in the tower dates from 1615, and the polychromy in the sacristy from 1607. The 18th-century iconostasis contains icons made in 1712 and 1756. In 2013, the church was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, highlighting its exceptional significance.
• Church of the Protection of the Theotokos (Pokrov) in Hańczowa: The church admired today dates from the first or second half of the 19th century, although the oldest fragment – a wooden foundation plaque with the name Lazar Hancowski – is dated to 1644. Foundations discovered under the floor date back to the 16th/17th century, testifying to the long history of this place. After the expulsions during Operation Vistula, the church was taken over by the Roman Catholic Church, but Lemkos returning to Hańczowa decided to take care of the church and rebuild it – a wonderful example of care for heritage.

Hidden Gems: Churches Waiting for Your Discovery

The UNESCO list is just the tip of the iceberg – there are many more, after all. The Low Beskids and neighbouring ranges hide many other wooden churches which, although less known, are equally beautiful and worth visiting; indeed, often even more atmospheric precisely because of their modesty. Some of them still function as churches, others have been converted into Catholic churches, and yet others are museum objects; each has its own history and purpose. A popular base for excursions for lovers of Lemko architecture in the Sądecki Beskids is Krynica Zdrój. It is also worth visiting churches in the Sądecki Beskids, for example in Jaworki, near Szczawnica. It is worth seeking out the church of Saints Cosmas and Damian in Kotań – a beautiful church standing alone in the forest, next to which is a lapidarium with artefacts of Lemko stone art, a truly extraordinary place, a little forgotten. The church of Saint Michael the Archangel in Świątkowa Mała is another lovely church with interesting colourful accents, located on the outskirts of the village. Exceptional is also the church of Saint Michael the Archangel in Świątkowa Wielka, due to its rich colours after the renovation in 2014; it’s simply a joy to behold. Beautifully situated is the church of Saint Demetrius in the village of Czarna, completely surrounded by a lovely, low wall. The church of Saints Cosmas and Damian in Banica is a beautiful, black church, covered with shingles and metal sheeting. The church of Saint Paraskeva the Martyr in Czyrna, an imposing structure from the end of the 19th century, stands on a hillside, which provides interesting frames for photographers – I know something about this, I tried taking photos there and the views are incredible. The church of Saints Cosmas and Damian in Berest is one of the best and most interesting for photography, with a separately standing bell tower covered with shingles; it has something magical about it. The church of Cosmas and Damian in Wojkowa is located in the Sądecki Beskids, surrounded by the Leluchów Mountains. The church of Saint Michael the Archangel in Dubne is to the Beskids what Muczne and Wołosate are to the Bieszczady mountains – beautifully located, a little off the beaten track, it offers a feeling of a true escape from the hustle and bustle. Many of these hidden gems are waiting for your discovery; you just need to be willing to look for them.

Tourist Trails: In Search of Lemko Heritage, Ready for an Adventure?

Discovering Lemko wooden churches is an ideal way to explore the Low Beskids and Lemko Land – after all, it’s the essence of this region. This region offers many opportunities for active tourists, and tourist trails, whether walking or cycling, often lead from one extraordinary church to another. Even online maps can be used to select the churches you’d like to visit during a full day out with a camera, and perhaps even a drone – technology helps us with this. Every map of the region shows many of these objects. Information about visiting is often available at local tourist information points or online. It’s worth checking the service schedule or opening days.

The Low Beskids: By Bike Following the Footsteps of History

The Low Beskids, with their gentle hills and relatively small elevation gains, are also a great place for cycling trips. The network of local roads and trails is conducive to travelling between villages where the wooden churches are hidden. Cycling from church to church allows you to fully experience the region’s atmosphere, admire the landscapes, and discover the history of the Lemkos in their natural environment, and what’s more, it’s great physical activity. You can plan a route that includes the UNESCO-listed churches, as well as the less known but equally beautiful ones – it all depends on your preferences and time.

Subcarpathian Pilgrimages: A Route Map for Architecture Enthusiasts

Preparing a route map is key to a successful journey in search of Lemko wooden architecture, because without a plan, it’s easy to get lost in these beautiful but extensive areas. We can start from Lesser Poland, heading towards the Low Beskids. An example route could include: The Church of the Protection of the Theotokos in Bielanka (built in 1773, walls covered with shingles, onion helmets clad with metal sheeting, the external gallery painted blue, surrounded by trees nearby – charming), then on to Leszczyny (Church of Saint Luke built in 1835, located 4.3 km from the church in Bielanka, beautiful surrounding landscapes, chancel facing east), then to Kunkowa (Church of Saint Luke, estimated to have been built in 1868, located 2.1 km from the church in Leszczyny, inside there are figures, an iconostasis, marble pilasters and columns – seemingly the same dedication name, yet a different history and appearance), then to Uście Gorlickie (Church of Saint Paraskeva, built in 1786, located 7.1 km from the church in Kunkowa), to Przysłup (Church of Saint Michael the Archangel, built in 1756, moved from the stream due to meltwater – a story with a happy ending, that it was saved, located 8.8 km from the church in Uście Gorlickie), to Gładyszów (Church of the Ascension, completed in 1939, built by Hutsuls, not Lemkos, in 1985 it returned under the care of the Greek Catholic parish, located 7.7 km from the church in Przysłup), to Zdynia (Church of the Protection of the Mother of God, belonging to the Orthodox parish, located 5.2 km from the church in Gładyszów), to Konieczna (Church of Saint Basil the Great, built in 1905, belonging to the Orthodox parish in Zdynia, located 3.7 km from the church in Zdynia, it has an iconostasis brought from Sambir in Ukraine in 1912 – another example of cultural intertwining, located close to the border with Slovakia), to Skwirtne (Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian, built in 1837, covered with shingles, located 14.4 km from the church in Konieczna and 8.8 km from the church in Gładyszów), and finally to Kwiatoń (Church of Saint Paraskeva, dated to the 17th century, located 1.9 km from the church in Skwirtne – here we complete a loop back to one of the most beautiful). You can continue the journey south, visiting Hańczowa, Czarna, Brunary, Berest, Powroźnik, Roztoka Wielka, or Dubne – there are plenty of possibilities, and each church is another story. Such a wooden architecture trail allows you to fully appreciate the scale of the Lemko Land heritage, which is truly impressive when seen with your own eyes.

History and Culture: The Lemkos and their Sacred Heritage

To understand the phenomenon of wooden churches, we must get to know the Lemkos – their builders and custodians. Lemko Land is an area historically inhabited by this ethnic minority, extending across the Carpathians, mainly in the Low Beskids, but also in parts of the Sądecki Beskids and Bieszczady mountains. This also includes the northeastern regions of Slovakia, where Lemko churches are also found. Their history was turbulent, marked by expulsions, especially during Operation Vistula (Akcja Wisła) in 1947, which lasted until 1950 and resettled many Lemkos to Ukraine or the Recovered Territories – this event left a deep mark on the region and the people themselves. Despite these difficulties, the Lemkos gradually returned to their homeland and began to look after the abandoned churches, restoring them to their former glory – this required enormous strength and determination. Nikifor Krynicki, or rather Epifaniusz Drowniak, a famous primitivist painter sometimes compared to Andy Warhol, was a renowned Lemko and a witness to those times; his paintings tell this story in their own way.

From Greek Catholicism to Orthodoxy: A Path of Faith

The Lemkos were traditionally of the Greek Catholic faith, although in the 17th century they were forced to accept the provisions of the Union of Brest, which was a difficult moment. Currently, some of them profess Greek Catholicism, while others have converted to Orthodoxy. This path of faith is reflected in the fate of the churches themselves, which after the expulsions were often taken over by the Roman Catholic Church, and then, with the return of the Lemkos, partially recovered by Greek Catholic or Orthodox parishes – such is, unfortunately, the complex history. The church in Zdynia, the church of Saint Basil the Great in Konieczna, or the Orthodox ‘chasovnias’ (chapels) built after the Tylawa Schism (e.g., in Bodaki, Bartne) are examples related to Orthodoxy in the region, testifying to this dynamic of confessional changes.

Architectural Influences: From Local Traditions to Austrian Models

The architecture of Lemko churches evolved under the influence of various factors – nothing exists in a vacuum, after all. Initially, local wooden building traditions dominated, characterised by simplicity and functionality, which was natural in this region. Over time, borrowings appeared, e.g., from the church architecture of Lesser Poland (towers above the narthex), which added a new character to them. In the 19th century, Austrian models began to penetrate Lemko Land, visible, for example, in the shape of the towers or simplifications in construction; that’s how it is, external influences just appear. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, the construction of churches in the Ukrainian national style, modelled on Hutsul building traditions, was promoted among the Lemkos, from where carpenters were even brought – it’s interesting that they sought inspiration so far away, isn’t it? Examples of such churches are those in Gładyszów, Daliowa, Bednarka, or Pętna, as well as the stone-built church in Klimkówka near Gorlice, which shows that wood isn’t the only material. In Małastów, a church was built in the Josephinian style, with a simple, ‘universal’ form. These influences testify to the Lemko community’s contacts with other cultural traditions, which enriches their sacred heritage, making it so fascinating.

Lemko Churches: More Than Just Temples

Lemko churches are much more than just sacred buildings. They are centres of community life, witnesses to history, and places of deep spirituality. Surrounded by silence and nature, blended into the Carpathian landscape, they evoke a sense of mysticism and holiness. The intense smell of old wood and incense, often accompanying the buildings, only enhances these feelings, creating an unforgettable atmosphere. As an older Lemko I met by the church in Kotań once said: “Here, even the stones tell stories.”

Places of Memory and Reflection: Churchyard Cemeteries

An inseparable element of the Lemko church landscape is the churchyard cemetery. They are often located at the back of the church or in its vicinity, surrounded by a stone wall or trees, creating such small, sacred enclaves. These cemeteries, full of old, stone tombstones and Orthodox crosses (characteristic in their form), serve as places of memory and reflection on transience and the fate of the people who lived and created here. Walking among the gravestones, we can touch history and feel the spirit of past generations of Lemkos – it’s a truly moving experience that makes you ponder.

Life Around the Church: Communities and Traditions

For centuries, the church was the heart of the Lemko village. Community life revolved around it – services, religious and social ceremonies, as well as meetings took place; simply, all life was centred there. Although many villages were deserted after the expulsions, in some places, life around the church is being reborn, especially thanks to returning Lemkos and the activities of the parishes – this offers hope for the future. Churches in Kwiatoń or Skwirtne, which can be visited on specific days of the week, still pulsate with life and tell the story of their communities; they are not just dead monuments. Even if a church is no longer used for worship, it often becomes a museum or cultural object, gathering people interested in Lemko Land heritage around it, which is also very important, after all, so that the memory of this heritage is not lost.

Lemko Churches: Heritage Written in Wood

The interiors of Lemko churches constitute a world as fascinating as their external architecture. It is here, in the semi-darkness of the wooden walls, that true treasures of sacred art are hidden – iconostases, polychromies, and other furnishings, testifying to the depth of faith and the talent of the artists who created these works, often in difficult conditions.

Preserved Interiors: Iconostases, Polychromies, and Other Treasures

The most important element of the equipment in Eastern Rite churches is the iconostasis – a wall with icons, separating the nave from the chancel, such a symbolic boundary between the temporal world and the sacred. Many Lemko churches have preserved beautiful, often richly carved and gilded iconostases from the 18th century, like the one in the church in Brunary Wyżne, or the later but equally impressive iconostasis by Michał Bogdański from 1904 in Kwiatoń; each has its own style. The church of Saint Basil the Great in Konieczna has an iconostasis with a rare stepped arrangement of icons, brought from Sambir in Ukraine in 1912 – this shows how far the Lemkos’ contacts extended. The church of Saints Cosmas and Damian in Skwirtne, which is on the Wooden Architecture Trail, also hides a valuable interior, with icons of the Mother of God with Child and Christ Pantocrator hanging on the nave walls. An 18th-century iconostasis is preserved in the church in Powroźnik. Besides iconostases, in many churches we can admire polychromies – paintings on the walls, ceilings, and domes, often very colourful and expressive. Figural polychromy from 1607 is preserved in the sacristy of the church in Powroźnik. In Kwiatoń, we find a unique polychromy from 1811 with figural and ornamental motifs. In Brunary Wyżne, the polychromy with Rococo-Classical motifs was created by Antoni and Józef Bogdański in 1898 – this is a more recent history, but still valuable. Ornamental polychromy covers the walls, ceiling, and the interior of the false domes in the church in Owczary, painted in 1938 on the occasion of the 950th anniversary of the Baptism of Rus’ – so it also has a historical, commemorative dimension. The church in Skwirtne has polychromy from 1900. Other treasures include beautifully decorated pulpits, choir lofts, Rococo pews, as well as paintings, such as the Painting of Christ at the Column in a Baroque side altar from the 18th century in Powroźnik, or the processional cross from the 19th century in the church porch in Skwirtne. On the rood beam in the church in Brunary Wyżne, a cross and figures of Mary and Saint John are placed; these details create a whole. In the church in Kunkowa, there are figures, an iconostasis, marble pilasters and columns; even marble appears here, which is quite unexpected in a wooden church. Looking at all this, you really feel the spirit of history and art that served the faith.

Lemko Churches: Unique Faces of Faith in the Polish Carpathians

The wooden Lemko churches in the Polish Carpathians, and especially in the Low Beskids and Western Lemko Land, are unique faces of faith written in wood, a material so close to the nature and people of these mountains. Each church, even the one most similar to a Western Lemko type church, has its own history, its treasures, and its unique atmosphere; no two are identical. Visiting them, we discover not only beautiful architecture, but also the cultural and spiritual heritage of the Lemkos, which is perhaps the most important thing about this journey. It is a journey into the past that allows for a better understanding of the present of this fascinating region and the people who created and continue to create it. We warmly encourage you to follow in their footsteps and experience this extraordinary atmosphere for yourselves – seriously, it’s worth dedicating time to it. It’s an experience that stays with you long after, slightly changing your perspective on history and culture, especially in the context of such difficult fates as those that affected the Lemkos.