Hello, travellers! Today I am taking you to a truly unique place on the map of Poland, and I dare say Europe as well – the magical Chełm, where a real underground expedition awaits us. If by any chance you think that the underground is just dark, damp tunnels, you will soon realise how wrong you were in your, well, stereotypical notions. Prepare yourselves, please, for an exploration of an extremely fascinating labyrinth that hides centuries of history, the secrets of ancient chalk mining and… the legendary, friendly (supposedly!) ghost of Bieluch! As you can guess, I have already been to many underground sites, and even had the opportunity to walk through the tunnel under the Dead Vistula in Gdańsk or explore the mysterious old cellars in Hrubieszów, but the Chalk Underground in Chełm is really something completely different. I’ve heard various opinions about them, but mostly enthusiastic ones, so I decided to finally see Chelm up close and proper, instead of just passing through it so far, often passing it on my way east, for example to or from Ukraine, which, by the way, testifies to the city’s strategic location.

The history of the Chełm underground, or how the chalk shaped the city

The history of Chelm and its chalk pits, you know, is the kind of story where one simply doesn’t exist without the other. They are inextricably linked, one might even say fused together. It was this subterranean wealth, this famous chalk writing, that for centuries defined the city of Chelm and the lives of its inhabitants, their occupations, their opportunities, even their safety. The origins of this extraordinary underground saga go back to truly ancient times, and the labyrinth of corridors itself, after all, is tangible proof of the perseverance, persistence and extraordinary ingenuity of past generations of Chełm residents.

How did the quarrying begin and what did it bring to the mine?

Chalk mining near Chelm? Oh, it has, let’s face it, a very, very long tradition. It all started in earnest after Prince Daniel of Halych rebuilt the town in the 13th century. It was then, a little by accident and a little on purpose, that it became apparent that there were vast deposits of fantastic writing chalk beneath the surface, beneath the houses and streets. The inhabitants of Chelm, people with a flair for business, quickly discovered this valuable resource and, curiously enough, began to extract it directly from their cellars! Yes, you heard right, from their cellars! At first these were, naturally, small, independent pits, just for their own needs or local trade. Over time, however, as the demand for chalk grew – and it grew a lot, because it was a valuable resource – these individual pits began to merge, creating an ever more extensive network of underground corridors, chambers, nooks and crannies – the nucleus, you know, of today’s truly impressive labyrinth beneath the city. The history of the chalk mine in Chełm is fascinating.

The mine and the life of the city – the chalk pulse of Chelm

In truth, the chalk mine simply had a colossal, even fundamental, impact on the daily life and development of Chelm. The chalk was, let’s not kid ourselves, a valuable resource that simply gave the inhabitants a source of income, often the only or main one. This centuries-long exploitation, carried out on an ever-increasing scale, created a unique structure beneath the city – a real underground fabric. But in addition to their purely mining function, these tunnels also served as shelters, which was no small matter, especially during the numerous raids, wars and invasions that swept through these troubled lands over the centuries. The greatest boom, a real boom in mining activity, came in the 17th and 18th centuries. The mining work continued, one might say, almost without restraint, unlimited, until the 19th century, when the scale of mining became so large that it began to pose a real, serious threat to the stability of the buildings, to the houses standing on the mountain. In the twentieth century, finally, the municipal authorities, seeing what was happening, took the difficult but necessary decision to limit and then, in what was a key, watershed moment in the history of the mine, to ban chalk mining altogether for reasons of safety, simply the lives and health of the people of Chelm. Chelm’s chalk mines have a long and complicated history.

Why was the Chelm chalk important to the Krakow Academy?

Chelm chalk writing? It was a raw material so highly valued that its importance went far, far beyond the local market or even the region. It was transported, imagine, all the way to Krakow, among other places, where it was used by that famous, prestigious Krakow Academy. The chalk from Chelm was used in the construction industry, added to plasters, was an important ingredient in the manufacture of ceramics and, interestingly, essential in the paint industry, for the production of pigments. Doesn’t this show just how much value this seemingly ordinary raw material had, mined laboriously beneath the city, and how wide its distribution, its influence, was in past centuries? It really is impressive.

The chalk underground – mysteries, legends and a breath of history

Chełm’s chalk underground is, needless to say, not only a fascinating, living lesson in mining history, but also a place absolutely shrouded in mystery and a whole host of local legends, which adds to its flavour. Wandering through these cool, chalky corridors, you literally feel the breath of centuries on your neck and, at least I did, you wonder what other secrets, what mysteries, are hidden in these limestone depths, which are still largely unexplored. When visiting Chelm, you can find various tourist attractions, but these undergrounds always occupy, or at least should occupy, a special place on the list of Chelm’s attractions.

A labyrinth of corridors and chambers – man-made and natural architecture

What, in my opinion, makes Chełm’s Chalk Underground so unique and special is its incredible extent and unusual, complex structure. After all, they were created not as a single, planned creation, but as the result of hundreds of years, generations of work in extracting the raw material, creating a real, authentic, multi-level complex of mining chores under the entire Old Town of Chelm. It is a gigantic labyrinth of corridors, chambers, niches, the total length of which is estimated, interestingly enough, differently – from 15 to even 40 kilometres! Yes, up to 40 kilometres under the city! Some sources, the more fantastical ones, even state that the corridors reach all the way to the nearby, mysterious Stolp. Today, importantly for tourists, a section of the route of about 2,000 metres (or 2 kilometres) is open to the public, leading to a depth of up to 20 metres underground, which still gives a good idea of the scale. The constant temperature in the underground remains at a pleasant +9 degrees Celsius, regardless of whether it is sulfurously cold outside or, as on the day of my visit, sweltering heat reaching +33 degrees Celsius! And the humidity? It stays within a comfortable range of 70% to 85%. It is worth taking photos to capture this unique atmosphere of Chełm’s chalk underground.

Legends and stories – will you meet the ghost of Bieluch?

Like any self-respecting old underground, the one in Chełm has its own, one could say, full-time legendary guardian. This is, of course, the ghost of Bieluch, a mythical figure supposedly associated with the chalk fumes in the passageways, and regarded as the ruler of the underground. It is said, in whispers, that it is he who wanders the darkest corridors, watching over unimaginable treasures hidden somewhere, or perhaps simply keeping watch over the peace of the place. Legend, the most popular and repeated one, has it that a tourist may be lucky enough to meet the ghost of Bieluch while visiting, and his appearance, surprisingly, is supposed to herald good luck, not bad luck! The figure of Bieluch’s ghost is so associated with Chełm, with this place, that it has even become its unofficial symbol, recognisable throughout Poland. When you read reviews of the Chalk Underground in Chełm on the internet, very often this character is mentioned, which, no doubt, adds a touch of magic, mystery and such a slight thrill to your visit. (Although I have not personally met the ghost, which is a shame!).

Mysteries and unexplained riddles of the underground world

Despite the numerous research works carried out over the years and the opening of parts of the underground for tourism, its full extent, you know, all those, unknown nooks and crannies, still remains a largely unexplained mystery. This vast labyrinth of corridors and chambers hides potentially, who knows, countless forgotten secrets. In the past, especially during this period of, let’s not kid ourselves, largely uncontrolled exploitation, structures of extraordinary complexity were formed here, difficult to map, difficult to understand. Although the tourist route, I must stress, is fully safe and penetrated by experts, the thought of this vastness of the Chalk Underground in Chełm, of what a full map of it might look like, even of the part of it known, makes me, at least, think deeply about what else might be hidden in this underground, chalky depth beneath the city. It’s a bit like looking at the tip of an iceberg.

The Chełm underground today – a unique tourist attraction

Today, and this is great news, the Chelm Chalk Underground is first and foremost, and probably rightly so, a unique, very interesting tourist attraction in Poland. After years of uncertainty and even real threats to the city, the underground has finally been solidly secured and partially opened to the public, becoming, needless to say, a must-see on the itinerary of anyone planning to visit the Lublin region and looking for something more than just the standard monuments. This is an important attraction in Chełm.

Touring the underground – what awaits on the route?

The route available to tourists, which I have already mentioned, is the aforementioned 2000 metres long. It leads through the most interesting, picturesque and, most importantly, safest parts of this former chalk mine in Chelm, winding, mind you, directly under the city centre, under the market square, under the churches. The tour is always guided, which is a guarantee of safety and access to the fascinating knowledge of the place, and usually lasts about 60 minutes, allowing you to learn both the history and all those colourful legends associated with the underground in a relaxed manner. Groups usually consist of up to 20 people, which lends itself to this more intimate, personal atmosphere of exploration. The entrance to the Chełm Chalk Underground, if you are in Chełm, can easily be found at 55a Lubelska Street, practically in the centre. During this walk underground, we have the opportunity to admire the stark white chalk walls, which sometimes seem to glow in the light of torches, the huge chambers where miners used to work, and of course these narrow corridors, which together create the impression of a real underground labyrinth. Very impressive indeed.

Safety for visitors – how secure is the underground?

The history of the underground, as is so often the case in such places, has not, unfortunately, been without its safety-related dramas. After the Second World War, for example, the Chalk Underground was once again reminded of its existence in a rather unpleasant way – in the 1960s, unbelievable as it sounds, a part, a section of Lubelska Street, the same street where the entrance is located, collapsed! And in the 1970s one of the corridors collapsed, supposedly, under the pressure of a passing truck, you know, it shows how fragile some structures could be. These events, these shocking incidents, fortunately prompted the authorities to act, to take radical steps. In 1965, intensive conservation and research work was finally undertaken. You know what, experienced miners from Silesia were even brought to Chelm, specialists in underground mining, who, using their unique skills, helped to stabilise this vast underground structure. Today, I can assure you, the accessible tourist route is fully, but fully protected and, importantly, regularly inspected by the relevant services. By the way, the historical and geological significance of the Podziemi Kredowe in Chełm was officially recognised as early as 25 January 1995, when the Provincial Conservator of Monuments entered this entire complex of mine shafts, located under the Old Town of Chełm, into the register of monuments, which was an extremely important step in its protection (this took place, as a reminder, within the then Chełm Voivodeship). In the words of a friend of mine who has visited the site several times, “now it’s a completely different, safe fairy tale”.

Organising a trip – practical tips

When planning a visit to this remarkable chalk underground, it is worth bearing in mind a few, shall we say, practical points that will make your life easier. Firstly, the tour, as already mentioned, takes place exclusively with a guide, which is not only a safety requirement, but also guarantees access to a wealth of knowledge, curiosities, legends and anecdotes about the place. It is recommended, especially if you are going during the tourist season, to book your tickets in advance so as not to kiss the handle. You can often buy tickets online, which is convenient. When it comes to the Chalk Underground in Chełm tickets, the prices are, in my opinion, reasonable and are as follows: a normal ticket costs 30 PLN, a reduced ticket 22 PLN, and if you are a larger group, for example a school group, a group ticket costs 18 PLN per person. The concessionary ticket price, which is standard, is for:

• children (obvious),
• schoolchildren (students),
• students (up to 26 years of age),
• pensioners,
• and finally, pensioners.

Entrance times, which are worth checking before you go, can vary depending on the time of year, the day of the week or even the current occupancy, so it is best to look at the official website or call to check the current schedule before you plan to visit, although the tour itself always, invariably, lasts around 60 minutes. How long does the tour last? Usually around an hour.

Chelm – the city and its charming surroundings

Chełm is a city which, although perhaps not as well-known as Kraków or Wrocław, has a really rich history and lies in a very interesting, diverse region of Poland – Lubelskie. It’s worth spending more time than just those 60 minutes for a quick visit to the underground, as it really does have a lot to offer. Chełm is situated picturesquely on the Uherka River and very close to the border with Ukraine, which gives it an unmistakably borderland, somewhat peculiar character. It also borders on the charming Polesie Lubelskie, a land of vast lakes, marshes and peat bogs, where the Poleski National Park, a true sanctuary of wildlife, is located. Or… should I take a look at other towns in the region, such as Zamosc?

What does Chełm offer besides underground?

When we think of tourist attractions in Chełm, the underground naturally comes first, but that’s not all, absolutely not. It is worth, while walking around the city, to visit the market square, see the historic churches that hide their own stories, and simply stroll through the charming, peaceful old town. I particularly recommend, if you are not afraid of heights (and even if you are a little afraid, it is worth overcoming your fear!), climbing to the Viewpoint located on the bell tower of the cathedral complex, on the so-called “Hill”. From there, I tell you, there is a magnificent, breathtaking panorama of the city and its surroundings, all the way to the horizon. And, importantly, the ticket to this vantage point is much, much cheaper than to the Underground – a concessionary one costs only 5 zlotys and a normal one 10 zlotys. A small price to pay for such views, right? Chelm attractions in the area are also a broad topic.

Chelm as a base – what to see in the area?

Thanks to its location, Chełm can be a really great base for exploring the region or, just as well, an interesting stop on a wider tour of the entire Lublin region. A visit to the chalk underground in Chełm can be, and even should be, combined with a visit to nearby Włodawa, known for its annual, extremely colourful “Festival of Three Cultures”, or, which is a completely different experience, with a visit to the moving memorial site of the Former Death Camp in Sobibór (where, it is worth noting, entry is free). The attractions in and around Chełm thus offer, as you can see, an extremely varied programme, from history, that hidden underground and that above it, through fascinating legends, the natural beauty of Polesie, to sites commemorating a tragic past that we must never forget.

Practical information for tourists – how to get there, accommodation, food

Luckily, getting to Chełm is relatively easy, as the city lies on important national transport routes. As I have already mentioned somewhere, Chełm is often passed, which is the best proof of its strategic location, by hundreds of lorries going to or from Ukraine. The entrance to the underground, which is very convenient, is centrally located in the heart of the city, at 55a Lubelska Street. In Chełm itself, you will easily find numerous accommodation options, from standard hotels to smaller pensions or private accommodation, and, importantly for many, a rich gastronomic offer, allowing you to taste regional dishes and simply rest and recuperate after an eventful day. Thinking of Chełm’s attractions offering entertainment, the underground is, in my opinion, simply a hit, combining these two aspects in perfect proportions.

Exploitation of chalk – lasting traces in the environment and the city

Although today, fortunately, the chalk underground in Chełm is primarily a fascinating, safe tourist attraction, we cannot, and should not, forget its origins, how it came to be and, just as importantly, the impact that this centuries-long, intensive exploitation of chalk has had on the environment and, very visibly, on the city itself. Actually, looked at from another perspective, it was this negative impact that forced the action and ultimately led to the tourist attraction of today.

The environmental impact of mining

The creation of such an extensive underground labyrinth, a system of chambers and corridors, obviously had, logically enough, a not inconsiderable impact on the geological structure of the subsoil, on what was happening below the surface. Gigantic hollow spaces were created which, over time, deprived of support, became, necessarily, unstable, threatening to collapse. Although the extraction of writing chalk itself is not as invasive, as destructive, as, for example, the extraction of coal or other raw materials, on such a large scale and carried out for such an unimaginably long time, over centuries, it has left a permanent, visible mark on the environment, on the geology beneath Chelm.

Consequences for the construction and infrastructure of the town

The most tangible, most perceptible impact of chalk mining on the life of the town was, it was clear, associated with a real threat to the building industry, to houses, churches, offices and to the infrastructure, roads, bridges, squares. Unrestricted, often carried out in an unorganised, even haphazard manner, the mining works resulted in underground voids, funnels, literally under buildings and streets! The collapses mentioned earlier, such as the dramatic one in Lubelska Street, or the lesser known ones, were the direct, tragic result of this robbery, uncontrolled activity. It was this growing threat, this prospect of further disasters, that finally, years later, prompted the municipal authorities to introduce this categorical ban on excavation in order to protect the safety of residents at all costs, because this was, and is, the most important thing.

Heritage conservation and sustainable development

Today, comfortingly and commendably, the priority is to protect this unique and precious heritage and to ensure so-called, sustainable development, that is, development that allows use but not destruction. The inclusion of this remarkable dial complex in the register of monuments by the Provincial Conservator of Monuments in 1995 was, there is no doubt about it, a crucial, formal step towards its long-term legal protection. The preservation work, these arduous, difficult activities, which lasted, we should add, for many years, made it possible to stabilise this accessible, touristic part of the underground and, most importantly, to create a safe, accessible route for visitors. In my opinion, the protection of the Chalk Underground in Chełm is an excellent example of how the preservation of this unique historical, cultural and geological heritage can be successfully combined with making it accessible to tourism, people and education, while minimising the negative impact on the environment. Can it be done? You can!

The Chełm underground – a showpiece to remember

As you already know, Chełm is famous above all for its Chalk Underground, absolutely unparalleled in Europe, which makes it, without a shadow of an exaggeration, a real gem, a, you know, diamond on the tourist map, not only of Poland, but also of the wider region. This historic old chalk mine, which is a unique, because preserved, remnant of former chalk mining, is not only a place with a rich, intriguing history and those fascinating legends about the ghost of Bieluch, who supposedly lurks somewhere there, but also a superb, really superbly prepared, professional tourist attraction. Tourists like me and, I hope, like you after reading this text, can explore the safely-provided route, discovering step by step this extraordinary underground labyrinth of corridors and chambers, which was created, let us remember, as a result of hundreds of years of laborious mining of this precious writing chalk. I think it’s worth it, it’s really very worth it to come to Chełm, go down those symbolic 20 metres underground and see this extraordinary, hidden world with your own astonished eyes. It is an experience I can assure you will stay in your memory for a long time, and the stories told by the guides, all these stories, interwoven, of course, with legends about the Bieluch spirit, the legendary guardian of the Chełm Chalk Underground, make us feel, if only for a moment, like true explorers, exploring the unknown. They are mentioned, interestingly enough, even by my colleague Józef Tworek in his book, which also proves something. Without a doubt, Chełm’s chalk underground is a must-see, even an unmissable spot for any lover of history, geology and, well, a bit of thrill in the company of the legendary chalk spirit. You won’t regret it.