Are you planning a holiday in the beautiful Table Mountains? Great choice, you know! This mountain range in Lower Silesia is absolutely unique and offers wonderful views and fascinating rock formations that you’ll find in very few other places. These incredible sandstone rock formations are truly one-of-a-kind. If you’re thinking of visiting this region, Szczeliniec Wielki, the highest peak in the Table Mountains, absolutely must be on your list of must-see sights.

And waiting for you right at the summit is not only an unforgettable panorama but also the atmospheric PTTK mountain hut on Szczeliniec. It’s a place with a rich history, steeped in legends, offering a welcome respite after conquering the peak. When heading on this trip, it’s worth knowing how to get there, where to leave your car, how long the climb takes, and what to expect along the way. We’ve put together a detailed guide for you that will certainly help you plan this unforgettable adventure. Regardless of the weather, Szczeliniec has its charm, though do remember the specific conditions in winter when, unfortunately, the trails may be inaccessible.

History of the Hut and the Pioneers of Tourism

The history of tourism on Szczeliniec Wielki is just as fascinating as the place itself, perhaps even more so. Interestingly, it all began with strategic defence plans. In the 18th century, Prussia, which ruled the lands where the Table Mountains lie, was preparing for war with Austria. Fearing an attack on Silesia, King Frederick William II ordered a reconnaissance of the surrounding peaks. Construction of Fort Karol on the nearby Ptak mountain began first, and soon the military saw the potential of Szczeliniec Wielki as a natural fortress. It was the soldiers who blazed the first trails to the summit of Szczeliniec, although they were certainly a far cry from today’s safe paths.

The Man Who Opened the Mountains – Franciszek Pabel

However, the real development of tourism came about thanks to the visit of King Frederick William II himself, who was guided around the mountain by a young resident of Karłów, Franciszek Pabel. His knowledge and dedication impressed the monarch so much that he was appointed the first royal guide. Franciszek Pabel (or Franciszka Pabla, as some sources claim – a little confusion with the surname, but a key figure!) is absolutely crucial to the development of tourism on Szczeliniec. He was the first officially appointed guide of the Sudetes, and his guide’s nomination is considered the oldest in Europe! (Worth mentioning!).

It was he, with a vision of making the beauty of Szczeliniec accessible to a wider public, who conceived the idea of building stone steps and establishing an easier route for tourists. Previously, the ascent was much more difficult and only accessible to a few, essentially only the most determined. Pabel not only designed the trails but also guided tourists around Szczeliniec, charging them an entrance fee, which was a novelty at the time. His actions made the peak popular, attracting distinguished guests such as Johann Goethe, who visited Szczeliniec as early as 1790, and later the President of the United States, John Quincy Adams, who reportedly admired the sunrise from here. Even Fryderyk Chopin, a patient in nearby Duszniki-Zdrój, wrote sadly that due to illness, he was forbidden from climbing Szczeliniec. Visiting these places, it’s easy to imagine how old-time tourists, or perhaps even a great-grandfather, rested, sitting on a rock armchair.

Franciszek Pabel (granted the title of royal guide by William III – though sources also mention Frederick William II, so there’s a slight historical discrepancy, but who’s bothered about the details with such a figure!) dedicated his life to popularising this place, creating the foundations for today’s tourist infrastructure. His vision truly changed the face of the Table Mountains.

How the Hut Was Built – Tyrolean Style in the Table Mountains?

With the increase in popularity of Szczeliniec, and consequently the number of visitors, there was an obvious need to create accommodation and catering facilities at the summit. And again, thanks to Franciszek Pabel’s further efforts, the PTTK mountain hut on Szczeliniec was built in 1845. This building was erected at an altitude of 905 metres above sea level, in the north-western part of the massif. The original hut was wooden, built in the Tyrolean style, often compared to Swiss alpine architecture.

Its architecture, for that era, perfectly blended into the rugged, rocky landscape of the Table Mountains, becoming an integral part of Szczeliniec’s hallmark. Although the building underwent various fortunes and required renovations, its location and function have remained unchanged, serving tourists for decades. Today, it’s hard to imagine the summit of Szczeliniec without this characteristic building.

The Hut Today – What You’ll Find at the Top

The PTTK mountain hut on Szczeliniec is today a vibrant centre at the summit of the mountain, a kind of heart of Szczeliniec. After extensive renovation, it has been providing accommodation and a buffet to visiting tourists since autumn 2006, much to the delight of many. Its location is truly unique – delivering supplies to such a height requires special solutions, and this always inspires admiration.

Similar to the Piątka hut in the Tatras (the hut in the Valley of Five Lakes, where, as you probably know, goods cannot be delivered by car), supplies to the hut on Szczeliniec arrive… by goods lift. This is an interesting logistical curiosity worth remembering while sitting on the terrace with a cup of coffee and admiring the views (it always fascinates me!). The hut is open during specific hours and is an ideal place to rest after reaching the summit, admire the views, or plan your onward route. Or simply to sit and do nothing, soaking up the atmosphere.

Want to Spend the Night at the Summit? Accommodation in the Hut

For those who want to experience a true mountain atmosphere and spend the night at the summit, the hut offers this possibility. Overnight stays in the hut require prior booking, especially during the tourist season when interest is huge, as many have discovered. It’s a unique opportunity to experience the silence and tranquillity of the mountains after the last tourists have left and to greet the morning with the stunning panorama stretching from the summit. Remember that sleeping in a mountain hut is part of the mountain experience, with its specific conditions – often without hotel luxuries – but with an unforgettable atmosphere and a morning on the mountain!

Something to Eat? Buffet and Catering

The hut has a buffet where you can grab a bite before setting off or after descending from the rock labyrinth. You’ll find typical mountain hut dishes here – from soups to pancakes – snacks and drinks. It’s a real lifesaver for tourists who forgot to bring their provisions (it happens to everyone, right?). Outside the hut, in the village of Karłów itself, there is a grocery store and several restaurants and food outlets where you can have a proper meal after descending from the mountain. After descending to Karłów, you can buy local souvenirs to remind you of this extraordinary trip. So you won’t go hungry, even if the hut’s buffet is on a break.

Small Conveniences and What Else is Worth Knowing?

Besides the buffet and accommodation, the hut offers several practical amenities. As we mentioned, the unique element is the goods lift, which testifies to the specific location of the facility – it’s really something! For mountain stamp collectors, at the entrance to the Szczeliniec hut, there are stamps that you can stamp in your PTTK logbook. It’s also worth factoring in the time it takes to reach the hut, because you might linger on the terrace longer than originally planned, simply gazing at the views. Furthermore, mobile network coverage can be patchy there, which for some is a disadvantage, for others – an advantage. (It’s nice to disconnect from the world sometimes!)

To the Trail! The Route to Szczeliniec Wielki and Surroundings

Getting to Szczeliniec Wielki is not just an end in itself, but also a wonderful adventure and an opportunity to admire nature. You have a few options for hiking trails, although the most popular and frequently chosen lead from Karłów and Pasterka. The entire route passes through the Table Mountains National Park, which guarantees the preservation of unique natural and landscape values, and consequently, a truly beautiful environment awaits you. The Table Mountains National Park hides many treasures, not just Szczeliniec, but also the famous Błędne Skały (Errant Rocks). When planning your trip, it’s worth having a tourist map with you to confirm the ascent time and help you orient yourself in the terrain – as my grandmother, a seasoned mountain woman, used to say, “going into the mountains without a good map and water is like going to the oven without wood.”

Climbing Stairs? Description of Trails and Their Difficulty

The most classic and easily accessible route follows the yellow trail from Karłów. It leads up the famous, historic stone steps, of which there are supposedly 665 – has anyone counted? Fortunately, the trail leading from Karłów is almost entirely bordered by a metal railing, which increases safety, especially with children. From Pasterka, a yellow trail also leads up, which is slightly shorter but also requires climbing stairs, so don’t expect an easy ride. Both yellow trails will lead you to the pass between Mały and Wielki Szczeliniec, and then to the hut.

The tourist route itself leading through the rock labyrinth at the summit of Szczeliniec Wielki is a separate loop, named after Franciszek Pabel, marked in green. It’s a one-way route, which perfectly prevents bottlenecks, a significant plus, especially in season. Although the trail goes up and down stairs, wooden footbridges, metal steps, it also has steep sections and at times you have to squeeze between rocks (sometimes literally sideways!), it is suitable for children, though it requires a bit of effort and is certainly not a walk in the park. There are chains in two places on the route that help with passage, adding a bit of a thrill but also assisting.

What to See Along the Way? Nature and Landscapes

The ascent to Szczeliniec Wielki itself offers beautiful views, not just at the summit! From the area around the car park in Karłów, a beautiful view of the massif walls unfolds, which is impressive right from the start. The trail leads through a forest, mainly sparse spruce forest with a small admixture of pine, typical for the lower parts of the Sudetes. But the real magic begins at the very summit, inside the narrow rock corridors. A specific microclimate reigns there, favouring unique vegetation – it’s like entering another world.

In deep rock crevices, such as Piekiełko (Little Hell), snow can persist even until July! Unlike other regions where caves dominate, the Table Mountains enchant with their surface formations. In the narrow crevices and rock holes, the temperature is cold, creating a specific microclimate. You can encounter relict species of liverworts and luminous moss there, which looks like something straight out of a fairy tale. A wealth of birds also inhabits Szczeliniec, such as kestrels, black redstarts, robins, and goldcrests. On the yellow trail, even before the hut, you pass the Ucho Igielne (Needle Eye) rock, a small rock formation that is easy to miss if you’re not paying attention.

How Long Does it Take? Time and Preparation

The time to walk from the car park in Karłów to the summit of Szczeliniec Wielki (to the hut) usually takes about 2 hours, but of course, it all depends on your pace and fitness – and how many times you stop for photos. Sometimes, especially in peak season, you have to wait a few minutes at narrow passages. The rock labyrinth tour on Szczeliniec Wielki itself, the summit loop, usually takes just over an hour, unless you get stuck in “Czyściec” (Purgatory) with other tourists. The entire trip, including rest at the hut and admiring the views, is a minimum of 3-4 hours, so it’s worth planning half a day comfortably.

However, you must remember that the route is officially closed from November to April for safety reasons (ice, snow in crevices – which is a significant downside for winter hiking enthusiasts!). During this period, entry is free, but no one maintains the trail, which can be dangerous, so you enter at your own risk. Regardless of the time of year, proper trekking footwear is essential – forget about sandals or flip-flops! It’s also worth checking the weather forecast before setting off and taking water and snacks with you.

If you’re planning a visit in season, take the advice to plan your Szczeliniec trip early in the season or early in the morning to avoid crowds. Seriously, the difference is huge when you don’t have to queue for the narrow passages.

Visiting the Summit: Labyrinth, Views, and Other Wonders

Szczeliniec Wielki is not just the hut and the way to it. It is primarily a monumental, huge labyrinth created from originally shaped rock formations, whose names often come from their shapes – people’s imaginations really work overtime! From the summit, there’s a magnificent viewpoint offering a vast panorama of the Kłodzko Land, the Sudetes, including the distant Karkonosze (Giant Mountains), Wałbrzych Mountains, and Sowie Mountains. But honestly, the most excitement comes from the walk through the rock labyrinth itself – that’s the core attraction.

In the Heart of the Mountain: The Rock Labyrinth and Its Inhabitants

The rock labyrinth is the true heart of Szczeliniec Wielki, beating with a rocky rhythm. Entry to the paid section of the National Park (in season – remember this!) is behind the hut. This is a one-way section of the route, which is a brilliant logistical idea, leading through incredible rock formations. Here you’ll pass rocks with fanciful shapes, such as the Camel, Elephant, Squirrel, Hen, Horse’s Head, or the symbol of these mountains – the Ape-Man. You’ll squeeze through narrow passages like the Devil’s Kitchen or Purgatory, and reach a 25-metre deep crevice called Piekiełko (Little Hell), parallel to the northern edge of Szczeliniec Wielki, where there’s a unique chill, even in summer. Several scenes from “The Chronicles of Narnia” were filmed there, as well as around Skalne Grzyby (Stone Mushrooms). There’s also the famous Princess Emila’s Cradle, one of the ‘Chybotki’ (rocking stones), which despite its considerable mass can reportedly be rocked – who will try? It’s worth remembering that entering Liczyrzepa’s Throne is not obligatory; you can bypass it, although it’s the highest point of Szczeliniec and it’s nice to be there, but you have to be ready for more stairs.

Views That Take Your Breath Away

Szczeliniec Wielki is a true paradise for view lovers, no question about it! From the summit, especially from the viewpoint terrace on the high rock face on the northern edge (the one behind the hut!), an impressive panorama unfolds, truly breathtaking. Many tourists believe that the most beautiful view of the surrounding ranges is from the viewpoint terrace behind the hut. From here, you can admire the Polish and Czech parts of the Table Mountains, including the Broumov Walls with their highest peak, Božanovský Špičák, and in good weather, also the distant Karkonosze, Wałbrzych Mountains, Sowie Mountains, Bardzkie Mountains, Złote Mountains, Bystrzyckie Mountains, and the Orlickie Mountains and Foothills (with the highest peak of the Orlickie Mountains – Orlica). A keen eye can spot the reservoir in Radków and the Sudeten Foothills, and even… well, that depends on your imagination and the clarity of the air.

Approaching the end of the labyrinth, as a treat, you reach the Southern Terraces. As the name suggests, you can admire an excellent panorama from the rock viewpoints. When you reach the rock with the charming name Elephant and decide you only want to visit one of the two viewpoints, choose the one on the left side as you descend from the top; the views are reportedly better there, although that’s a subjective opinion.

Beyond the Main Trail – Legends and Other Wonders

Beyond the main labyrinth loop, on the Szczeliniec Wielki tourist route, you can see rocks belonging to the Path of Rock Sculptures, although most of them are within the paid area, so if you don’t pay for entry, you won’t see them. Legends about Liczyrzepa, the ruler of the Karkonosze and Sudetes (also known as Rübezahl or the Mountain Spirit), are closely associated with this region, and Liczyrzepa’s Throne is a symbolic spot at the summit – though, to be honest, it’s just a rock, but it has a cool name. The history of visits by distinguished figures such as Johann Goethe and John Quincy Adams adds prestige to the place, it’s true. It’s worth mentioning that the rocks of Szczeliniec are also a popular climbing spot for experienced climbers, though this naturally requires appropriate permits and skills – don’t attempt it without preparation!

Everything You Need to Know Before Your Trip

When preparing for a trip to Szczeliniec Wielki, it’s worth gathering all the practical information to ensure the journey is smooth and enjoyable, which is key. We’ve paid attention to every detail so you can fully enjoy the beauty of the Table Mountains. Visiting Szczeliniec Wielki is a real pleasure if well-planned, and poor planning… well, it can spoil even the best trip.

How to Get There and Where to Park?

Most easily accessible from the village of Karłów, Szczeliniec Wielki is located near this village, which is a great convenience. Driving along the Road of a Hundred Bends (this is road number 387, very scenic by the way!) from Kudowa-Zdrój to Karłów or from Radków to Karłów, you’ll pass several larger and smaller car parks where you can leave your car. The visitor car park for Szczeliniec Wielki is in Karłów, there are the most options there. You can leave your car at one of several car parks here, both paid (there are the most of these and they can be expensive!) and free (the one from the Pasterka side, but it gets busy quickly). Driving from Radków, the first car park on the left side cost, when I last checked, 15 zł for the day.

From Wrocław, you’ll get here after a journey of just under 2 hours, which is quite a comfortable time. To get here from Kudowa-Zdrój, you’ll need about 20 minutes, often driving along the aforementioned scenic Road of a Hundred Bends. If you don’t have your own transport, I recommend getting there from Kudowa by taxi, which is a convenient option, although we left our car in Kudowa and got there by bus, which is also possible and cheaper if you’re willing to sacrifice a bit of comfort.

How Much is Entry? Tickets and Prices

Entry to the tourist route on Szczeliniec Wielki, specifically the paid section of the Rock Labyrinth (i.e., the most interesting part!), is ticketed during the season. The entry fee is collected next to the hut at the summit, at the ticket office, which is located behind the hut building – a bit hidden, so you have to look for it. In season, entry to the Rock Labyrinth is paid, and ticket prices for the Szczeliniec Wielki tourist route are usually 14 zł (standard) and 7 zł (reduced), although the National Park may introduce changes, so it’s worth checking current prices before you go to avoid surprises. Tickets can be purchased online for a specific time slot (recommended to skip queues!) or at the ticket office on site, just before entering. We visited Szczeliniec Wielki outside of the season, so entry tickets were not required, and the route outside of season does not go through the Piekło Gorge (this section is closed for safety reasons), which is a small disadvantage of visiting outside the season, but you save on tickets.

Opening Hours and Safety

Officially, the tourist route through the rock labyrinth is open from April to November. From November to April, it is officially closed – and this is important information that cannot be ignored! Entry during this period is free, but no one maintains the trail, which means no safety measures and potential hazards, especially on icy steps, ladders, and in narrow crevices. Entry is then at your own risk, which you must remember!

The Table Mountains National Park allows dogs onto its premises and along the trails, which pleases many tourists travelling with their four-legged friends, just like our dog Cola accompanied us (she had a great time!). However, the question “can you enter the rock labyrinths with a dog?” often arises, so it’s worth checking the exact guidelines on the Table Mountains National Park website, as there can be exceptions. Always remember mountain safety rules, do not stray from the trail – that’s fundamental – and adjust your pace to your capabilities. Can an older person manage Szczeliniec? The route has many steps and narrow passages, which can be challenging, it’s true, but for many people in good condition, it is doable, although you have to be prepared for the effort. Actually, even I, a reasonably fit person, felt tired after all those stairs.

Szczeliniec Wielki – The Magic of the Table Mountains

Szczeliniec Wielki is the gem of the Table Mountains and, I can confidently say, a must-see spot on the map for every traveller in Lower Silesia. As the highest peak of these unique mountains (919 metres above sea level), it offers not only a fascinating rock labyrinth with formations such as the Ape-Man, Liczyrzepa’s Throne, and Piekiełko (Little Hell), but also the historic PTTK mountain hut on Szczeliniec with a viewpoint platform offering extensive panoramas of the Sudetes, including the Karkonosze. Accessible mainly from Karłów and Pasterka via the yellow trail, which leads up hundreds of steps, it’s a demanding but unforgettable route, you have to admit. It’s worth planning a visit early in the season to avoid crowds, remembering about entry tickets in season and the closure of the route in winter. This is a place where nature has created a true work of art, and man, thanks to the vision of Franciszek Pabel, has made it accessible to everyone – and for that, we should be grateful. We invite you to visit this magical place!