Welcome to Białowieża – a place where history is intertwined with wild, primeval nature. Coming face to face with the king of the forest, the bison, isn’t just a dream here, but a real possibility. Białowieża isn’t merely a gateway to the UNESCO-listed Białowieża Forest, considered the most valuable forest complex in Poland, perhaps even in Europe. It’s also a small town with a rich past, full of tourist attractions for just about everyone. We visited these parts of Podlasie and, I must say, we were enchanted. The two days we dedicated to Białowieża and its surroundings out of our four-day trip to the region provided us with, well, plenty of unforgettable experiences. Whether you’re looking for active leisure or simply a moment of peace surrounded by nature, Białowieża has attractions for pretty much every need. And so, we’ve put together this complete guide to Białowieża, which, we hope, will help you plan the perfect weekend, or perhaps even a longer trip to this magical place. It’s truly worth seeing for yourself. You’ll find out what’s worth seeing, where to find accommodation, and how to fully immerse yourself in that extraordinary spirit of the forest. Because Białowieża and bison are, of course, a classic pairing, but the region hides much more, believe us! Although at first glance it might seem like just a forest, Białowieża also has attractions prepared for children, and quite a few of them, too. You can see bison live in the Show Reserve.

The Royal and Tsarist Heritage in Białowieża

For centuries, Białowieża attracted the powerful of this world. First, Polish kings like Władysław Jagiełło and Augustus III the Saxon, and then Russian tsars took a liking to these lands as a place for hunting and relaxation. Did you know that it was thanks to their rather selfish passion for hunting that the Białowieża Forest has survived in such an unaltered state? Treated as royal table lands, it was under strict protection, which, paradoxically, saved it from early, mass exploitation. Although the times of hunting are long gone, the spirit of bygone eras still lingers over Białowieża, and the relics left by kings and tsars are, without a doubt, some of Białowieża’s biggest attractions.

The Tsar’s Palace – History, Architecture, and its Fate

Where the modern buildings of the Białowieża National Park’s administration and the Nature and Forest Museum stand today, once stood a grand, imposing Tsar’s Palace. Tsar Alexander III commissioned its construction precisely in 1889, and the work was completed in 1894. The palace was intended to serve as a representative court, ready to host the tsar’s distinguished guests, who, naturally, came here for hunting. It was, in effect, an impressive governor’s manor serving representative functions.

It was a vast building, truly impressive, with 134 rooms, equipped with amenities that, for their time, were, well, very modern. During the interwar period, after Poland regained independence, this residence was converted into apartments for President Ignacy Mościcki himself, as well as rooms for, I’d say, the most important guests of the Republic. Interestingly, during World War II, the building first served as a hospital, and then, sadly, became the headquarters of the occupation authorities, where Polish partisans and civilians merely suspected of supporting them were mercilessly sentenced. As a historian friend of mine from Podlasie says, those times were a sheer tragedy.

Death sentences, even more shockingly, were carried out in the forest, including within the area of today’s Strict Reserve. Unfortunately, on the night of 16th to 17th July 1944, the palace burned down, set alight by members of Hungarian units collaborating with the Germans. The decision to dismantle the remains, a rather controversial decision in my opinion, was made only in October 1960. Today, the only preserved, well, remnant of the palace is the Palace Gate from 1894, which represents merely, note, 1/30th of the original complex. Later, the Hotel Iwa and the Nature Museum were built on the palace site. The Nature and Forest Museum of the Białowieża National Park itself, which, it’s worth noting, is located on the foundations of the former palace, allows one to get a rather good understanding of the richness of the forest’s flora and fauna, as well as its turbulent history.

Białowieża Pałac and Białowieża Towarowa Stations – Railway Relics of Bygone Times

The visits of the tsars to Białowieża, you see, necessitated the construction of suitable railway infrastructure to ensure them, well, the best possible, comfortable journey. And so, two stations were built: Białowieża Pałac and Białowieża Towarowa Station.

Białowieża Pałac Station, built in 1897, was, one could say, a representative station, intended for the exclusive use of Tsar Nicholas II and his family, just imagine. Later, President Ignacy Mościcki also used it. Currently inactive, it has been, well, transformed into a multi-functional educational and recreational complex, including: a replica of the railway station (housing a gallery and tearoom), an English-style garden, known as the Secret Garden, with an Alley of Stars of the Białowieża Forest, as well as a zoological playground. It’s a brilliant, truly brilliant place to spend time, especially if you’re with children, there’s plenty to do there.

The second station, Białowieża Towarowa, was built, if I remember correctly, in 1903 during the reign of Nicholas II, to relieve the ‘palace’ station and serve freight functions, although it also, admittedly, served passenger traffic and was a significant, very significant logistical hub. It operated in continuous, uninterrupted, use until 1992. Today, to our surprise, it hides quite a few interesting, well, attractions – it houses the exclusive Carska Restaurant (opened in 2003), as well as the Carska Apartments (in the water tower), plus stylish hotel rooms in neighbouring buildings, the decor of which, rather nicely, refers to the tsarist era. Białowieża Towarowa Station, as a historic railway station from 1903, is one of those, you know, Białowieża attractions that are really worth seeing. This entire complex of station buildings, with the water tower and workers’ cottages, is impressive, no doubt about it, and transports us, unnoticed, through time.

And between Towarowa and Pałac stations? Well, today the Białowieża Draisines run here, as do rail bikes, offering, frankly, an unforgettable ride along the historic railway line. It’s a, let’s say, unusual, but super fun adventure.

Białowieża Forest – The Heart of This Region

Białowieża Forest is a true, invaluable, natural treasure. One of the most precious forest complexes in Poland and Europe, listed, of course, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area of Białowieża Forest covers a total of 150,000 hectares, of which, interestingly, 63,000 hectares lie on our side of the border, sharing it with the Republic of Belarus. It is the last, truly large, wilderness in Europe, structurally similar to primeval forests, those that, well, grew over Poland after the ice sheet retreated. Despite its resilience, Białowieża Forest has faced threats throughout history, such as excessive logging, especially outside the strictly protected area.

This forest has been appreciated and, importantly, protected for hundreds of years by Polish kings, and even the Tsar of Russia himself, which, and here’s the paradox, contributed to its survival, despite everything. The oldest mentions of the Forest come from the chronicles of Jan Długosz, describing Władysław Jagiełło’s famous hunt in 1409, just before the clash with the Teutonic Knights. The rulers quickly took a liking to these areas, including the Forest in the category of table lands, where both timber and game were under strict, oh, very strict protection. And residents who dared to hunt in the royal forest faced, well, inevitable death.

Part of the Forest, the most valuable part, is under strict protection and, unfortunately, closed to ordinary tourists – the Reserve Protection District covers the former Strict Reserve and is located right next to Białowieża. The remaining part of the forest, fortunately, is under less stringent protection, and numerous walking and cycling trails run through the northern part of the park, accessible to everyone. Forest protection outside the national park is looked after by three, if I remember correctly, forest districts.

A Walk Through the Forest – Discover Unique Ecosystems

Exploring Białowieża Forest is a real, sometimes demanding, adventure. Its most valuable part, the former Strict Reserve, is only accessible accompanied by a licensed guide, and entry, yes, entry requires buying a ticket. But, I’m telling you, it’s a unique opportunity to see this primeval forest, this true, last piece of old forests, such as you won’t see, well, anywhere else.

The route to the, so-called, Jagiełło Oak, starting near the Palace Park, leads through a historic, beautiful, gate from 1930, which, as it were, transports us to another world, where everything that happens, happens, importantly, according to the cycle of nature. The guide during such a walk, oh, tells stories about the history of the Forest, its ecosystem, animal behaviour, monumental oaks (both standing and those that have fallen). A walk through the forest is a practical nature lesson that, if you fancy it, can turn into a real search for animal tracks, and even observation of rare plant and animal species, oh, that you’ve only read about before.

Outside the strict reserve, Białowieża Forest offers a whole host of other trails and paths. You can move on foot, and also, conveniently, by bike. It’s worth going for a walk in the Białowieża forests, where nature itself is, well, a unique attraction of Białowieża, without a doubt. You know what? You don’t have to enter the reserve at all to encounter rare species of plants and animals, often it’s enough just to look carefully on an ordinary trail.

Fauna and Flora of the Forest – From Bison to Slime Moulds

Białowieża Forest is, first and foremost, home to the world’s largest population of bison, which, let’s face it, is the king of animals in this region. According to estimates, about 700 bison live in the Forest, which have been in this area, one could say, forever, and thanks to great conservation efforts, including places like the Show Reserve, their population has been successfully restored, yes, from individuals originating from zoos.

But the Forest isn’t just about bison, oh no. It’s also, and this is fascinating, lynx, wolves, elk (apparently excellent divers, so someone told me), deer, roe deer, wild boar, wildcats, Polish ponies (descendants of the extinct tarpans, interestingly) and żubrońs (that curious hybrid of bison and domestic cattle, yes, that exists!). It’s an ideal place for a walk and, oh, a great Białowieża attraction for children, who can learn about animals and their, shall we say, habits, in an, erm, accessible way. Entry to the reserve is, of course, paid.

The fauna and flora of the Forest are, frankly, exceptionally rich. Within the Forest area, you’ll find over, mind you, 3000 species of fungi! As well as a wealth of plants, for example, wild garlic fragrant in spring, or delicate anemones, and of course, oaks, which provide wonderful shade in summer. An exhibition of birds, those that inhabit the forest, in the Nature and Forest Museum, allows you to listen to their voices and learn, oh, more about their lives. You can see there, interestingly, both large and the smallest, microscopic, animals. Research on the forest still uncovers new, often surprising, mysteries, for example, I recently read about slime moulds, organisms that combine, as it were, features of animals and fungi. fascinating, isn’t it?

Attractions for the Whole Family – Białowieża for Young and Old

Białowieża has attractions for children and adults, oh dear, loads, which makes it, in my opinion, an ideal place for a family trip. The combination of learning, nature observation, and active leisure, I guarantee, will ensure that, well, everyone finds something for themselves here, definitely.

Bison Show Reserve – A Close Encounter with the King of the Forest

For most Poles, Białowieża is primarily associated with bison, and well, the Bison Show Reserve is one of the best places to see these majestic animals at really, but really close range. Located, if you’re coming from Hajnówka, about 2 kilometres before entering Białowieża itself. This reserve is, essentially, well, something of a zoo, but on a large scale, where animals live in a vast space, in conditions close to natural, as much as possible in a controlled environment.

Beyond the bison enclosure, you can also see, among others, elk (remember those ‘excellent divers’?), wolves, wild boar, deer, Polish ponies (descendants of the extinct tarpans, interestingly) and żubrońs (that curious hybrid of bison and domestic cattle, yes, that exists!). It’s an ideal place for a walk and, oh, a great Białowieża attraction for children, who can learn about animals and their, shall we say, habits, in an, erm, accessible way. Entry to the reserve is, of course, paid.

Knowledge and Fun Park – Learning Through Play for Children

And at Białowieża Pałac Station? A place has been set up there where, as they say, education meets entertainment. Yes, yes, you’ll find this multi-functional complex, which includes the Knowledge and Fun Park. There’s an educational park with a nature trail, a beautiful English-style garden, that famous Secret Garden, as well as the Alley of Stars of the Białowieża Forest. For the youngest, there’s, rather nicely, a zoological playground, with equipment, well, with a plant theme. This place, in my opinion, allows for fun combined, and very cleverly so, with learning about the surrounding, yes, nature.

Białowieża – Magic and Spirituality of the Region

Białowieża and its, oh, surroundings hide places with a truly extraordinary atmosphere. You know, places where nature is intertwined with spirituality and old beliefs, you can feel it. These are the areas of Podlasie that we, admittedly, really liked, precisely because of this close contact with nature and, yes, those, erm, mystical experiences that, well, appear somewhere in the background.

Place of Power – A Mysterious Forest Clearing Full of Energy?

The Place of Power – what’s that? It’s a mysterious clearing in the middle of the forest, about 5 kilometres south-west of Białowieża itself. Legends have circulated about it for years, well, about positive vibrations, radiation, and some, shall we say, unusual energy. Is it true? Hard to say, but… dowsers have reportedly confirmed elevated electromagnetic radiation at this point, suggesting that such places have, oh, a very high concentration of positive charges which can, theoretically, affect our bodies, and thus our mood, you know, that’s what they say.

It is assumed that it was a site of ancient pagan worship by the Slavs, who paid homage to, erm, the animals and plants of the Forest. In the clearing, you’ll find, interestingly, a stone circle, unusually branched oaks (some, oh yes, fused together!), hawthorns, wild fruit trees, and also, helpfully, a wooden sign directing to the place, and of course, an observation tower.

Direct access is, if I remember correctly, possible via Sinicka Road, but a shorter version of the route is from the forest car park, the one near the disused Białowieża – Hajnówka railway tracks. A walk surrounded by the forest and to the sounds of forest animals, in my opinion, is unlikely to worsen your mood, quite the opposite, people come to the Place of Power, well, to increase their energy level, right? (Although I personally didn’t feel any spectacular change, but maybe that’s a matter of open-mindedness). The Czartowe Błota clearing is located, interestingly, nearby.

Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas – Unique Iconostasis and Tsarist Traces

Adjacent to the Palace Park on the eastern side is a brick-built, beautiful, Orthodox church, the Church of St. Nicholas. This sanctuary was founded, how else, by Tsar Alexander III, and its construction began, if memory serves me right, in 1894. There hadn’t been an Orthodox church in Białowieża for a long time, and this red brick building (imported, imagine, from Upper Silesia) stands out, well, very much in the landscape of the town. During the time of the Grodno Governorate, it was considered, note, the most beautiful church, and the tsars themselves visited it: Alexander III, and then, well, Nicholas II.

During the deportations of the population, those deep into Russia, the entire furnishings were, sadly, taken away from it, what a loss. But today its greatest treasure and, undeniably, attraction is the unique iconostasis, the one made of colourful majolica, crafted in St. Petersburg – the only, yes, the only monument of this type in Poland, just think! A visit to the Church of St. Nicholas should be, in my opinion, a, well, compulsory point, during a visit to Białowieża for every enthusiast, as well as admirer of works of art.

Located near the complex of the Białowieża National Park, it constitutes an important, very important element of local culture, as well as tradition, you can see it, feel it.

Flavours and Aromas of Podlasie in Białowieża

Podlasie is a region with an exceptionally, let’s say, rich and distinct cuisine. And Białowieża is, well, no exception, quite the opposite! Podlasie cuisine is a true, oh yes, ‘flavour explosion’, with regional dishes that, well, you won’t find anywhere else in Poland, I’m telling you. The abundance of culinary treasures, those straight from the forest – from mushrooms, to, obviously, venison – strongly, very strongly influences the local menu, it’s evident.

What to Eat in Białowieża? Regional Flavours of Podlasie

When you visit Białowieża, well, you simply cannot, there’s no option, miss tasting the regional, those real, specialities. What do we recommend? Well, the list is long, but here are a few items that, in my opinion, you simply must try:

• Kartacze – delicious, filling potato dumplings with a meat filling. We recommend them at Restauracja Stoczek 1929, a place with nearly a hundred years of tradition, which serves the best exquisite kartacze. Restauracja Stoczek is a place worth visiting.
• Babka ziemniaczana – a traditional dish made from grated potatoes, often with additions.
• Kibiny and Pielmieni – the influences of Eastern cuisine are very visible here.
• Sękacz – a characteristic regional cake.

Restauracja Stoczek 1929, the one in the centre of Białowieża, is a place where, well, local dishes reign supreme. They strongly refer to the rich, multicultural, tradition of the region, and are prepared, importantly, from carefully selected, natural, ingredients. We tried there, oh, among other things, fish solianka, as well as very substantial kartacze with venison, you know, the kind that are perfect for a meal after a whole day of activity. For beer lovers, we can wholeheartedly recommend the draught Pils beer, straight from the Markowy brewery in Hajnówka, truly good. Interestingly, the interior of Stoczek is filled with porcelain sculptures of animals.

And Restauracja Carska? The one at Białowieża Towarowa is, I admit, the most exclusive in Białowieża, and the prices at Carska are, well, high, it must be said. But! They serve dishes that, I believe, should satisfy even very demanding, truly, gourmets. From our side, we can recommend, well, a delicious, but truly delicious, meat solianka, as well as deer tartare, exquisite. Wild boar tongues? Hmm, that’s a dish that, frankly, should only be ordered at your own risk! (Maybe someone likes it, but it’s not my cup of tea). It’s also, oh, very much worth popping into Carska for their famous meringue, which, note, is really, but really, big.

In Walizka Klubokawiarnia (which we visited, by chance, in winter) you can have coffee and, interestingly, buy books, for example “Bison from the Stone Bog”. At Bar Biesiada, if you’re looking for something, well, cheaper, you’ll find, indeed, cheap regional food, simple, but good. Lithuanian lemonades, especially the pear one, quench your thirst brilliantly, you simply must try them.

Local Products from the Forest – From Beer to Cheese

Besides ready meals, Białowieża and its surroundings tempt, oh dear, they tempt with delicious, truly local, products. It’s worth looking for them.

At Browar Przełom, the local, as the name suggests, regional brewery in Białowieża, you can taste, well, the real Spirit of the Forest or Bison Bonansus, the names speak for themselves. It’s right here you can see with your own eyes how the, oh, beer fermentation process takes place. And all of this in a place with local traditions, and what’s more, note, in the very heart of the Białowieża Forest. Rather nice, isn’t it?

Also, be sure to try traditional dairy products from the Okręgowa Spółdzielnia Mleczarska Hajnówka (District Dairy Cooperative Hajnówka), which has been operating, well, in Hajnówka since the 1960s. Even in rather large-seeming factories, butter can still be produced in such a way that the final result depends on, oh, manual skills, portioning and wrapping it, yes, also by hand, in packaging that refers to the local traditions of Podlasie. This ‘twaróg krajanka’ (crumbly curd cheese) produced by OSM Hajnówka is, oh, on the List of Traditional Products, you know? In their company shop (ul. Osiedle Milenium 1 in Hajnówka, if I remember correctly) you can also buy Tsar’s cheese, the one matured for at least six months. That’s, in my opinion, a hit, truly worth trying.

Also a hit are, oh yes, ‘krówki’ (fudges), produced with the addition of Hajnówka butter, which can also be bought, among other places, in the Sklep Kresowy Groszek shop in Hajnówka (at ul. Piłsudskiego 53). Good cheeses with local, shall we say, accents are also produced by those from “Serów z Puszczy Białowieskiej” (Cheeses from Białowieża Forest) – we managed to find them in the same Sklep Kresowy Groszek, where there are also plenty of other, truly local, products.

In the vicinity of Białowieża Forest, delicious honey is also obtained, oh dear. This ‘Lipiec Białowieski’ is honey from the List of Traditional Products, which, interestingly, I bought, yes, at the Białowieża Apiary from Mr Włodzimierz Owłasiuk. As I’m writing this, I’m actually drinking yerba mate with a spoonful of raspberry honey, which somehow, well, reminds me of those flavours, that’s rather nice. In shops, you’ll also find, indeed, spices and teas from the companies Runo and EkoHerba, those with organic certificates, for example, oh, Białowieża herbal pepper. For shopping, if you have time, I recommend going to that small Sklep Kresowy Groszek in Hajnówka, it’s a good place. But don’t forget, for heaven’s sake, the Białowieża cinnamon buns! These sweet, twisted, and cinnamon-filled buns became, I’m telling you, an inseparable companion to our breakfasts, and the delicacy, which can be bought in almost, I stress, every shop or corner shop in Białowieża, even prompted us, note, to stock up a little before leaving Białowieża, unless, of course, the entire day’s supply had already been bought out by other tourists, because that happens, I know. Cinnamon buns are standardly sold in tightly packed sets of two.

Where to Sleep in Białowieża? Accommodation and Relaxation

Białowieża is, undoubtedly, a town where you can, quite simply, rest and, most importantly, get closer to nature. The accommodation base in Białowieża and the surrounding areas of Białowieża Forest is, I must admit, very diverse. From comfortable hotels, those with full, well, facilities, to atmospheric, ah, agritourism farms, guesthouses, and other places that allow you to feel, so strongly, the forest and support, importantly, tourism in a slow rhythm. We, you see, divided our stay between a traditional, old, historic cottage in a Podlasie village, and a comfortable hotel, yes, to experience both faces of the region, that was a good idea.

Hotels and Guesthouses – Comfortable Relaxation

If you value comfort and, well, relaxation after a day full of, let’s say, experiences, Białowieża offers hotels, those with SPA facilities, such as, for example, Hotel Żubrówka or Hotel Białowieski, with swimming pools, saunas, and even, oh, salt caves. Last time, it was, frankly, rather unusual, we stayed… above a petrol station, yes, in the Apartamenty Galerii Trunków, which was, well, an unusual, but, surprisingly, comfortable choice. If you’d like to stay in a, erm, truly unique place, though perhaps a little further from the centre, it’s hard to find a better place than Apartamenty Carskie, offering, oh yes, a stylish atmosphere and accommodation in, note, a railway carriage, and even in a water tower! (Brilliant idea, isn’t it?). Apartamenty Stoczek 1929, it’s worth knowing, are located in a traditional, wooden cottage, offering, well, modern apartments. And many guests, I’ve heard, really praise the, oh, breakfasts served there. Białowieża offers many accommodation options.

Agritourism – Feel the Spirit of the Place

In the summer, I remember, we stayed in agritourism accommodation, which, you know, allows for that close, really close, contact with nature and local culture, the authentic kind. An example might be Korolowa Chata in Nowoberezowo, a beautiful, old, wooden building in a quiet, oh, very quiet area. The hosts, which is appreciated, will treat you to local, homemade, tinctures and tell you, oh, stories about the bison, those that approach the house at night, literally, it’s impressive. Guests have, importantly, the whole house at their disposal, as well as the grounds, they can, if they wish, pick fresh tomatoes for breakfast, straight from the garden. The soothing scent of wood inside and a record player with a vinyl collection create, in my opinion, a unique, magical atmosphere, you can’t fake that. You feel like you’re in another world here.

Białowieża – A Tapestry of Cultures and Traditions

Białowieża is, oh no, not just nature. It’s also a fascinating, very rich, cultural heritage, truly worth delving into. The Podlasie region has for years been, well, a multicultural place, where, beautifully, Orthodox faithful, Catholics, and Baptists live in harmony. While walking around the area of Białowieża Forest, you will provide yourself with, I guarantee, at least a few Orthodox church discoveries, those ones, and also get to know, yes, the traditional wooden architecture of Podlasie, which is, oh, truly unique.

Open-Air Museum of Wooden Architecture – A Journey Through Time

On the outskirts of Białowieża, or rather – looking from a different perspective – in the area of the former village of Kropiwnik, which, sadly, was destroyed by the Nazis during World War II (not Zastawa, as is sometimes stated), there is a private Open-Air Museum of Wooden Architecture of the Rus’ People of Podlasie. Its history dates back to, oh, 1978, when Professor Anatol Odzijewicz initiated, well, the collection, by, interestingly, buying a post mill (koźlak type) in the village of Kotły near Hajnówka, and bringing it, yes, to Białowieża.

Today, the open-air museum is a collection of traditional, wooden, architectural objects, available, of course, for visiting. These include: a chapel dedicated to Saint Alexander Nevsky, three residential cottages, farm buildings (a barn, woodshed, standard), beehives, and even, note, a Rus’ ‘bania’ (bathhouse, for the uninitiated). The oldest building is a cottage from 1885, originating, if I remember correctly, from the village of Czyżyki near Hajnówka. The largest building is an inn from 1897, adapted, interestingly, for residential purposes.

The open-air museum, in my opinion, allows for such a, you know, true journey through time, and an understanding of the life of the former population of this, such an interesting, region, it’s visible to the naked eye.

Land of Open Shutters – The Magic of Podlasie Villages

A trip through the Land of Open Shutters is, I’m telling you, an incredibly picturesque journey through these charming villages in the Narew river valley: Puchły, Soce, and Trześcianka. You’ll see here, which is captivating, wooden houses with characteristic, well, colourful shutters, as well as carved decorations on the corners of the cottages and the peaks of the roofs, it’s beautiful. Vegetation, of course, grows around the houses, and the flowers, interestingly, often seem to correspond with the plant motifs in the carvings, you can see someone thought about that.

Although, admittedly, these villages seem sleepy, they hide a wealth of stories that, rather nicely, the local residents are happy to share. We even managed to come across a temporary exhibition of the work of a local artist, Mr Stanisław Poskrobko, living, if I remember correctly, on the edge of the Białowieża Forest near the Narew. In Soce, you can visit, which is worthwhile, the Soce Village Museum. And a visit to the Orthodox church, the one dedicated to the Archangel Michael in Trześcianka (that’s the green church from 1867), is another interesting experience.

Returning from pottery workshops in Hładyszka to Hajnówka, we popped into the village of Stary Kornin for a moment, where, extraordinarily, two Orthodox churches stand side by side, built at the end of the 19th century, well, right next to each other, just think. During the times of the Russian Empire, this church of St. Michael the Archangel in Trześcianka (from the second half of the 19th century) was, note, a centre for craft education, the kind needed for church building – sculptors, masons, gilders, a whole host of craftsmen studied here, oh. The Orthodox church dedicated to the Protection of the Mother of God in Dubicze Cerkiewne (that’s the blue one, built in 1947 after the war) owes its patronage, interestingly, to an icon of the Mother of God which, oh, survived the fire of an earlier church, the privilege for which, interestingly, was granted by King Sigismund II Augustus himself! The Orthodox church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross in Werstok (built, yes, in 1768) is, in my opinion, a historical gem, with, well, historic icons inside. The Sanctuary of the Protection of the Mother of God in Puchły, it’s worth knowing, was formerly a pilgrimage destination, comparable in rank, oh, to the Holy Mountain Grabarka itself, that shows the scale.

And you know what surprised me (very positively)? In the Podlasie Orthodox churches, yes, they still use the already dead Old Church Slavonic language! Which for me, studying Bohemian Studies, was simply, erm, fascinating and, well, an incredible experience. We also recommend popping into the Bojarski Gościniec restaurant, the one across the street, where you can eat, oh, delicious dishes of local Podlasie cuisine (e.g., Hajnówka marcinek cake, duck leg in cranberry sauce, pielmieni, a platter of Podlasie cheeses and cold cuts – all the best), and you can also stay the night in, well, apartments. In Narewka, it’s worth, oh yes, seeing the collection of local art in the Tamara Sołoniewicz Gallery, named after, interestingly, Tamara Sołoniewicz – a film director and screenwriter, originating, as it turns out, from Narewka, who created documentary films, those for Polish Television, precisely about her home area. Isn’t that wonderful? You can also visit many interesting historic buildings here.

Active in Białowieża – Trails, Routes and Draisines

Białowieża turns out to be a great base for actively exploring the entire region, seriously. Numerous trails, as well as, well, educational paths, allow for discovering the charm of the Forest in various ways – on foot, by bike, and even… well, by draisine! Who would have thought?

Cycling Routes – Green Velo and More

The area around Białowieża Forest, oh yes, abounds in cycling trails that will satisfy, in my opinion, both experienced, well, cyclists and, importantly, families with children, there are truly quite a few. The Green Velo, that famous Eastern cycling trail, runs, interestingly, through Hajnówka county, and also through Białowieża itself. The Podlasie Stork Trail also leads through the Białowieża National Park, oh, connecting, just think, as many as four national parks: Białowieża, Narew, Biebrza, and, well, Wigry National Park.

The route from Białowieża to the settlement of Leśne Budy is, in my opinion, an excellent suggestion for a, well, active and very atmospheric, even magical, journey through time, through those, oh, Podlasie villages, with viewpoints, as well as extraordinary, wooden, boardwalks, you have to see it. Along the way, well, we pass the Open-Air Museum in Białowieża. A particularly interesting route is, oh, the educational path, named, oh yes, the Trail of Royal Oaks, which leads to specimens of oaks bearing, note, the names of Polish kings, as well as Lithuanian princes, those who, well, participated in the very popular, at that time, hunts. And the Dunin Oak, the one in the village of Przybudki near Białowieża, estimated to be, well, 400 years old, was even, imagine, the European Tree of the Year 2022! The village of Przybudki also has, interestingly, unusually arranged buildings, those in the shape of the letter U, divided by, oh, a branch of the Krywczanka river.

One of the, frankly, most interesting attractions in Białowieża is, undoubtedly, the Białowieża Draisines. They run along the tracks of a disused, oh, railway line, which, once, led from Hajnówka straight to Białowieża.

A draisine is, in a broad, let’s say, simplification, a railway trolley, powered, yes, manually, which is usually used for technical maintenance of the tracks, but here it has become, brilliantly, an interesting tourist attraction for thrill-seeking, well, tourists, a crazy group of friends, or, oh yes, families with children. The routes start from the railway-road crossing, the one, near Białowieża Towarowa station. Both routes – Białowieża Towarowa – Białowieża Pałac, measuring 4 km, and Białowieża Towarowa – Grudki, the longer one, measuring 7 km – lead through the picturesque, beautiful, valley of the Narewka river, touching upon interesting, very interesting, forest places, such as, for example, the Place of Power, or the Podolany nature reserve. The routes are, importantly, flat and, consequently, not demanding, you’ll manage easily. You can, of course, park your car near Białowieża Towarowa station, for example, in the car park, well, near Restauracja Carska. The distance from Hajnówka to Białowieża is, if I remember correctly, about 20 km, not too far.

Bison Ribs Educational Path – Will You Discover the Secrets?

The Bison Ribs Educational Path – it’s, let’s say, the most popular route in Białowieża Forest, and one of the oldest, oh, forest nature paths in Poland, that’s impressive. It starts from the car park, the one, by the road connecting Białowieża with the village of Pogorzelce, easy to find. The path is, well, quite long, measuring, note, about 4 km in length, and conveniently ends, well, near the Bison Show Reserve, so you can combine the two.

It is, essentially, a path built, oh, of wooden boardwalks, leading through the wetlands of the forest, as well as through former meadows, those, in the Narewka river valley. The route leads through diverse, very picturesque, forest communities, including, oh, wet alder forests, as well as bog forests, those, elements of the Forest landscape, allowing you to, well, admire this unique ecosystem, you can see these are old forests.

Combining the Bison Ribs with a visit to the Bison Show Reserve is, in my opinion, an excellent idea for a, well, full-day trip, if you have time, it’s brilliant. Along the way, with a bit of patience, you might spot squirrels, as well as various bird species, it’s worth keeping your eyes peeled. You can see there, interestingly, both large and the smallest, microscopic, animals. Research on the forest continues to discover new, sometimes surprising, mysteries.

Nordic Walking in the Forest – Active Leisure

The Białowieża Forest area is, you know, an excellent place for active leisure. Yes, yes, also with poles! In the Białowieża Forest, there are, oh, specially designated Nordic walking routes, including, those, “Land of the Forest and the Bison”, or, well, “Land of Good Winds”, the names are inviting. These routes run through beautiful, truly beautiful, forest areas, near places such as, for example, Krynoczka, Czerlonka, or Sacharzewo, it’s worth visiting there. Białowieża is also, interestingly, the host of the Polish Nordic Walking Cup, who would have thought? And in winter, when snow falls, the Palace Park in Białowieża turns into, oh, a 10-kilometre trail for, well, cross-country skiers, a super option.

How to Plan Your Visit to Białowieża? Practical Tips

Planning a visit to Białowieża is, fortunately, simple, and the town itself offers, well, everything you need to spend, let’s say, an unforgettable time. It’s worth knowing a few practical tips that will make your stay easier. Białowieża is an ideal place for such a weekend getaway, but, in my opinion, it’s worth coming for longer, so you can calmly, well, visit all the attractions in Białowieża, as well as, oh, in the surrounding area. For a leisurely visit to Białowieża itself and its immediate surroundings, a weekend is sufficient, indeed, but the forest is captivating!

Getting to Białowieża – How to Get There?

Getting to Białowieża is possible, oh yes, in several ways. Most often, obviously, tourists come, well, by car. From central Poland, for example, from Warsaw, you can reach it by the S8 express road, the one to Białystok, and then continue the journey by national road, simple, right? The distance from Białystok to Hajnówka is, if I remember correctly, about 60 km. From Hajnówka to Białowieża, road number 689 leads, that’s about, oh, 20 km. You can also, indeed, come from the direction of Narewka, although this route is, let’s say, less popular, but it’s also an option. You can reach Hajnówka by train from Siedlce, as well as from Czeremcha (those are regional trains), and also by, oh, long-distance trains, even from Warsaw, interestingly. Train timetable? Well, you can check, well, in the standard way. From Hajnówka to Białowieża, there is, indeed, a bus service, yes, the timetable can also be found, well, where you usually look. Parking in Białowieża? It’s not, fortunately, a problem, for example, the free car park near the Białowieża Towarowa railway station, quite large, as it happens.

Map of Attractions and Planning – How to Organise Sightseeing?

To plan your sightseeing, as well as, well, trips, it’s worth using, well, a map, that’s essential, after all! The map of attractions and important points of Białowieża Forest and surroundings, well, contains information about attractions, restaurants, cafes, as well as, oh, accommodation, everything you need. A good idea is to, oh, combine several points into one, coherent, route. For example, a trip to the Bison Show Reserve is best, in my opinion, combined with a walk along the Bison Ribs educational path, which, conveniently, ends, well, near the entrance to the reserve, perfectly, right? On the way back to Białowieża, we can take, oh, the forest route, the one leading through the Władysław Szafer landscape reserve. Upon reaching Białowieża, we’ll pass, interestingly, the monument symbolising the Geometric Centre of Białowieża Forest, it just stands there. If you’re going on a kayaking trip, you can combine it with a visit to the nearby Tamara Sołoniewicz Gallery, the one in Narewka, and a tasting of local cuisine at the Bojarski Gościniec restaurant, that’s a good plan. You can try dishes there that will quickly become your favourites. Białowieża does have tourist attractions, indeed, spread throughout the area, so a good, well, map, is essential, seriously. It’s worth thinking about booking accommodation and attractions before you arrive, especially during the tourist season. You can also look for descriptions of the most interesting places and routes.

Białowieża – What Else is Worth Knowing?

Białowieża is, without a doubt, a magical place in the heart of Białowieża Forest. It offers something more than just, shall we say, close contact with nature, although that is, oh, the most important thing. It’s also a journey through history, that, as well as the culture and tradition of the Podlasie region. We got to know, oh, the wooden architecture of Podlasie, the one with colourful shutters, historic, well, churches, places of worship, and also, interestingly, local artists, all of this creates the atmosphere.

We tasted the regional, delicious, flavours, and, well, discovered, oh, places with unusual energy (although regarding the Place of Power, I have my own opinion, you know 😉). The last Polish king to hunt in the Forest was, oh, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1784, that’s distant history. After the partitions, Białowieża Forest found itself, well, within the borders of the Russian Empire.

The first tsar who came to Białowieża for a hunt was, oh, Alexander II, in 1860. In memory of this event, interestingly, a life-sized statue of a bison was erected, which currently stands, note, in Spała, who would have thought? Alexander III, his son, chose the Forest as the location for his annual, oh, autumn hunts and included it in, well, the tsar’s private estates, just like that. His successor, Tsar Nicholas II, visited Białowieża, if I remember correctly, six times.

The retreating, well, Russians took away all the, movable, furnishings of the palace, which, as I’ve heard, now adorn one of the palaces in Moscow, a pity. The residence survived World War I, but during World War II, it became, sadly, the headquarters of the occupation authorities. Today, on the hill, where the palace stood, stands a modern complex of buildings, housing, among other things, the BPN administration, as well as the Nature and Forest Museum of the Białowieża National Park, yes, in a new location. Contemporary Białowieża was formed from the merging of, well, the settlement and surrounding villages, yes, it’s a fusion. Most residents work, obviously, in tourism, and the town has preserved, rather nicely, examples of traditional, well, wooden buildings, for example, oh, along Waszkiewicza street, it’s worth taking a stroll there.

We visited the Białowieża Forest region in, well, August 2023, so I have fresh impressions. While visiting, we used, which was helpful, the tips of experts from the Local Tourist Organisation, I recommend it, it’s worth it. The attractions of Białowieża Forest and the Białowieża National Park are places, I’m telling you, unique. It is, note, the only natural attraction in Poland on the UNESCO World Heritage list, just think! Lying near the border with Belarus, Białowieża is, well, such a base for exploring, surrounded by, oh, the oldest forest in Europe, no small feat. Despite the presence of the military, due to the situation, well, on the Polish-Belarusian border, visiting the Białowieża Forest region in tourist areas is, I assure you, safe. Although, admittedly, the presence of heavy vehicles can, indeed, spoil your mood, as, well, residents say, it is a certain inconvenience.

Białowieża Forest can be explored, oh, with Nordic walking poles, and also, well, on cross-country skis in winter, a super option. The Narewka river? You can kayak down it! It’s a calm, very calm, river that originates in the bogs of Wild Nikor on the Belarusian side, slowly, oh yes, flows through Białowieża Forest, and then, well, flows into the Narew, that’s its fate. On the Narewka, with a bit of luck, you can encounter, oh, ducks, beavers, kingfishers, and even, note, otters, a natural paradise!

The centre for kayak tourism in the area is, undoubtedly, the village of Narewka. Where you’ll find a kayak station, the one, renting kayaks and a lot of other tourist equipment, you know, bikes, Nordic walking poles, pedal boats, cross-country skis, everything you need for active leisure. And also, oh, a camping site for, well, motorhomes. The Narewka river is, in my opinion, a good option for people who don’t have much, let’s say, experience kayaking. If you’ve never kayaked before, well, just ask at the kayak station for a quick briefing, they’ll help. If I remember correctly, details on renting kayaks, as well as other equipment, were available on the Narewka municipality website.

It’s also, oh, very much worth looking for observation towers, those, in the Białowieża Forest region. Some of the, frankly, most beautiful views we encountered were from the observation tower on the Tsarist Trail path, the one, near Kosy Most. From a rather tall, oh yes, tower, you can see the valley of the Narewka river, its swampy, well, surroundings, as well as the forest edge, where tourists can sometimes, oh, spot bison, you need luck. While at Kosy Most, I recommend, well, walking a few dozen metres along the old narrow-gauge railway track (it leads to a railway bridge from which you can see the valley of the Narewka flowing below, that’s nice), and extending the walk by, well, about 200 metres to the bison habitat (it’s a clearing where you can often find them), it’s a good way to encounter them. Right next to Białowieża, literally a few minutes from the entrance to the Bison Ribs path, stands, indeed, a wooden tower in Pogorzelce – the view from it is, well, a not very extensive, admittedly, panorama of the Narewka river backwaters, but it’s something. You can also find a few small observation towers, oh, in Białowieża itself, near the flowing Narewka. One of the towers stands, oh, a few steps from Białowieża Towarowa railway station, the other a little closer to the centre of Białowieża (this tower at the intersection of the Narewka river and Mostowa street). From the towers, you’ll see, well, such idyllic, truly Podlasie, views of meadows, the river, and, of course, the forest, it’s calming.

Another, quite different, attraction is Zalew Siemianówka (Siemianówka Reservoir), one of the largest, well, artificial reservoirs in Poland, slightly smaller, let’s say, than Zalew Soliński, but still sizeable. It was created, oh, to secure water supply for nearby Białystok, and its construction necessitated, sadly, the liquidation of eight villages (traces of which, interestingly, are still found at the bottom of the reservoir – similarly to Solina, or, well, the area around Zagórze Śląskie in the Owl Mountains, an interesting comparison, isn’t it?). From Białowieża, you can reach here in a few dozen minutes, oh, by road through the forest, passing along the way, well, the observation tower in Pogorzelce and the entrance to the Trail of Royal Oaks. Thanks to the reservoir, you can quickly, but really quickly, change the landscape, and move from the forest to the water – trying windsurfing, kayaking, or simply, well, swimming, and then, oh, sunbathing on the beach. Near the beach, there is, rather nicely, a low observation tower, from which you can take nice, really nice, photos of the lake and its, well, surroundings, as well as observe various bird species, if you know them. Interestingly, in 2005, scenes for, note, “The Chronicles of Narnia” were filmed near Siemianówka, who would have thought?! The area is also conducive to, oh yes, motorhome tourism – you can connect here to, well, electricity, fill up with water, and also dump, well, grey water from the motorhome, that’s important for motorhomers.

You can reach Topiło, that forest settlement by the lake near Białowieża, beautifully integrated, well, into the landscape of Białowieża Forest, interestingly, by narrow-gauge railway from Hajnówka, that’s a nice adventure. The village lies by the Perebel stream, which forms, well, a reservoir, and the narrow-gauge railway (which formerly served to transport timber, when, you know, extensive, oh, tree felling was conducted in the forest area, those were different times) runs through, well, Topiło lake, it’s picturesque. On the section Hajnówka – Topiło, trains still run during the tourist season (usually from May Day to the end of September), oh yes – the days, as well as, well, running times, can be checked, well, in the standard way. Topiło was founded, oh, after World War I as a settlement for forest workers, those ones, and the lake surrounded by the forest is, undoubtedly, a charming place.

Hajnówka, a town promoting itself with the slogan “spiritual vitality”, is, oh yes, a great base for exploring the attractions, those, of Białowieża Forest. The town borders, well, the edge, well, of the primeval forest on its eastern side, literally.

A walk around Hajnówka can begin at, oh, the tourist information centre of the Białowieża Forest Region Tourism Centre, they will help you there. It’s worth seeing the futuristic-looking, frankly, Orthodox cathedral of the Holy Trinity, where, interestingly, the Hajnówka Days of Orthodox Church Music are held (Jerzy Nowosielski himself was, oh yes, involved in the construction of the church, that’s impressive!), the Museum of Blacksmithing and Locksmithing (it’s a private museum, operating, note, in a family forge at ul. Lipowa 1, where Mr Mierzwiński continues, well, family traditions going back four generations, that’s beautiful!), the Museum and Centre of Belarusian Culture (dedicated to the history, as well as, well, traditions of the Belarusian minority, a nation with whom, importantly, Poles share, oh, the priceless Białowieża Forest, it’s worth remembering that), the square named after Dymitr Wasilewski with a, well, bison monument, as well as Górna street with, oh, authentic, wooden, buildings from the beginning of the 20th century, it’s like a journey through time.

At the corner of Myśliwska and Zwierzyniecka streets begins, oh, a 120-metre nature and educational path, named, yes, “Judzianka” – leading through bog forests and, well, bog birches, those, covered by the Natura 2000 programme, it’s an important place. Conveniently, there is a car park near the path, as well as a place to, well, lock up bikes, they thought of that.

If you are interested in, well, local cuisine, in Hajnówka you can try dishes at the Niezapominajka restaurant – Hajnówka pickled herring with linseed oil, pielmieni, or, oh yes, potato pancakes with Hajnówka curd cheese, sounds delicious, doesn’t it? Hajnówka marcinek cake is a cake listed, interestingly, on the List of Traditional Products, worth tasting.

Korolowa Chata in Nowoberezowo, as well as Hotel Stoczek 1929 in Białowieża are, in my opinion, examples of good, well, accommodation options that combine, importantly, comfort with that local, nice, atmosphere. Rather not, I’ll simply say that Białowieża is, without a doubt, a place that, I’m telling you, will stay in your memory for a, well, long, very long time.