The Bieszczady Mountains – a place that can truly draw you in, captivate you, and most importantly, stays with you long after you’ve left. If you’re planning a holiday in Cisna, or perhaps somewhere nearby, you’re bound to come across the name ‘Bacówka pod Honem’.

After all, it’s a legendary mountain hut, nestled on the slopes of Mount Hon, which some also call Wierch nad Majdanem, part of the Wysoki Dział range. And you know what? It’s not just a run-of-the-mill place to spend the night or another stop on the trail. You could confidently say it’s the beating heart of Bieszczady’s ‘qualified tourism’ – a concept created years ago by Edward Moskała. Every tourist and hiker will find something here. A holiday in the Bieszczady is, after all, a dream come true for many travellers, and this place fits perfectly into that landscape.

We warmly invite you on a virtual journey to this unique spot – treat this as a guide to what Bacówka pod Honem and its immediate surroundings have to offer. Discover the magic of this place with us, where history and nature intertwine to create an unforgettable whole. Let’s find out together the best way to get there, what attractions await in Cisna itself, and what you’ll find inside the hut, including its extensive menu and regional specialities.

Bieszczady tourism certainly has many faces, doesn’t it? And Bacówka pod Honem is undoubtedly one of the brightest and most recognisable. (I reckon every Bieszczady enthusiast has heard of it!). We assure you that the staff and personnel go out of their way to ensure hospitality and friendliness are of the highest standard.

Location of the hut and how to get there

Bacówka pod Honem is located in Cisna, a picturesque village which is itself an excellent starting point for exploring the most beautiful corners of the Bieszczady. The hut’s location is simply ideal for anyone planning hikes along the Main Beskid Trail.

But it’s also great for those who want to discover lesser-known, perhaps slightly wilder routes. Cisna offers various ways to reach the Bacówka, regardless of how you prefer to travel – by car, bus, or perhaps simply on foot. It’s a good idea to check the weather forecast for Cisna and the surrounding area in advance to be well-prepared for the trails.

Cisna as a starting point – what’s worth knowing about this village?

Cisna is a Bieszczady village with a rich history and a unique, specific atmosphere. While it can be really bustling and crowded in the summer, I remember it being a place full of such soothing peace and charm in winter. (A completely different Cisna!). You can spend both an exciting weekend here or longer holidays or breaks.

You’ll find pretty much everything a hiker needs – grocery shops where you can easily stock up on water, juice, meals, or quick snacks before setting off, as well as legendary, though sometimes besieged, eateries. Unfortunately, the crowds can sometimes make you give up on lunch plans in some of them, which can be annoying. Luckily, the kitchen at Bacówka pod Honem serves tasty food.

From Cisna, the trail leads, among other places, via Bacówka pod Honem, all the way to the summit of Wołosań. It’s also an excellent base for exploring the Border Range, the Łopiennik Massif, or the Chryszczata Range. Cisna is also a place where you can still feel the authentic Bieszczady atmosphere, imbued with the traditions and culture of this region. It’s worth familiarising yourself with local customs and cultural events. You might come across a festival, fair, or interesting exhibitions that will enrich your stay.

Getting there by car, public transport, and on foot – practical tips for tourists

Getting to Bacówka pod Honem is, thankfully, possible in several ways. The easiest and quickest way to reach Cisna itself is by car. The village is quite well connected to larger towns in the region, although the roads in the Bieszczady can be winding and require a lot of attention, especially in winter when ice or snow can catch you by surprise. It’s worth having an up-to-date map of the region and knowing the route.

In Cisna, you’ll easily find parking, from where you can set off onto the trail. Public transport to Cisna is also available, though it requires checking the bus schedule in advance, as they run via Sanok. It’s a bit like a lottery; you always have to be prepared for delays. Additional information on getting there can be found on the hut’s website or local forums.

Regardless of where you leave your car or get off the bus, you’ll usually reach the Bacówka itself on foot. The hut is strategically located right next to the Main Beskid Trail, so many tourists arrive there by trail, which is, after all, the essence of mountain hiking. This stretch is part of many routes.

The walk from the centre of Cisna to Bacówka pod Honem is only about half an hour of pleasant strolling, although, I admit, the last fifteen minutes can be a bit more demanding, sometimes leading over loose stones, where even in sandals carrying a heavy bag (metaphorically deserving a Medal of Sacrifice) you might feel a certain effort, which can be surprising for the uninitiated. Even a short path can wear you out.

Bacówka pod Honem – what’s the hut like?

Bacówka pod Honem is one of three identical huts for ‘qualified tourism’ in the Bieszczady (the others are Jaworzec and Pod Małą Rawką), which are the fruit of Edward Moskała’s visionary concept.

It’s a place that has continuously attracted lovers of the true mountain atmosphere for years, who appreciate simplicity and that unique, warm atmosphere we seek in the mountains. Many return here every year.

History of Bacówka pod Honem – from Edward Moskała’s idea to reality

The idea of ‘qualified tourism’ huts was born in the mind of Edward Moskała, a prominent activist of the PTTK (Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society). The aim was to create small, intimate facilities, specifically in the Bieszczady, which were primarily intended to serve hikers.

They were meant to be a base for less mass tourism, a more conscious type that seeks something more than just commercial conveniences. Bacówka pod Honem is one of the best examples of this concept, realised so that tourists could truly rest in the heart of the mountains, away from the hustle and bustle. The memory of its creator is still alive here.

These facilities were meant to perfectly fit into the local landscape and offer basic, but absolutely essential amenities. And I think they succeeded, didn’t they? The owner and host of the Bacówka certainly continue this idea.

Architecture and interiors – charming mountain style and functionality

The architecture of Bacówka pod Honem is characterised by a pleasant simplicity and, of course, refers to traditional mountain building style. The building is well integrated into its surroundings, and its wooden elements add warmth and cosiness, which is extremely important in the mountains. Decorations and ornaments referencing the region are visible here. You can also spot stone and brick elements in the construction, and the roof is often covered with thatch.

The hut’s interiors are functional, though very modest, which perfectly aligns with the idea of ‘qualified tourism’ we mentioned. The central point, as is often the case in mountain huts, is the dining area, where you can sit at a communal table, eat a meal, have a warm tea or coffee, and most importantly, share experiences with other hikers. The table and chairs encourage conversation. The whole room buzzes with life.

It is here, by the publicly available kettle for those staying overnight, that you can feel that true, inimitable atmosphere of a mountain hut. As my guide friend says, “A mountain hut isn’t a hotel, a mountain hut is a community.” The sound of conversations and the smell of the kitchen create a unique atmosphere. Light streams through the window, and a picture hangs on the wall.

Accommodation – where can you sleep in the hut and nearby?

Bacówka pod Honem offers sleeping places in rooms with varying numbers of beds, so there’s a choice, though it can be difficult in peak season. There are multi-person rooms, ideal for larger groups of friends or families, as well as smaller, more intimate ones for couples or solo travellers. Furniture, a wardrobe, a shelf, beds, duvets, pillows, blankets, and bedding provide basic comfort. A bathroom with a shower and toilet are available for guests, though it’s worth bringing your own towels.

For those hiking the Main Beskid Trail or other long-distance routes, this is simply a great place to recharge. An overnight stay allows for sleep and rest.

It’s also worth noting that there’s the option of pitching a tent on the grass by the hut, with a fantastic view of the mountains, of course for a set fee for the campsite. (It’s worth having cash handy for this occasion!). Toilet facilities are thankfully available for all guests, including those sleeping ‘under the stars’. You can even sleep on the floor in a sleeping bag if there are no beds. Remember the blanket and rug in the room.

Sometimes the hut is full ‘to the brim’ and you have to spend the night on the floor, which might require bringing earplugs and an eye mask, especially if you get noisy neighbours who clearly forgot that more people are sleeping in the hut. In the vicinity of Cisna and Bacówka pod Honem, you’ll naturally find other accommodation options too, such as private lodgings, guesthouses, or agritourism, though interest in private lodgings is naturally lower in winter.

What to do and where to go? Attractions and tourist trails around the Bacówka

The location of Bacówka pod Honem means it is, without a doubt, the ideal starting point for many Bieszczady adventures. The area around Cisna and the hut itself simply abounds in tourist trails of varying difficulty, offering unforgettable views and that desired contact with the wild nature of the Bieszczady. You can spend the morning on the trail, midday at the hut, and the afternoon on the terrace admiring the panorama.

The Main Beskid Trail – is it demanding?

Bacówka pod Honem lies, as we’ve mentioned, directly on the Main Beskid Trail (GSB), the longest mountain trail in Poland, leading, among others, through Wołosań and Duże Jasło. For many hikers traversing the GSB, the hut is an important stage of their journey and a much-needed place to rest after the fatigue of walking. It’s also part of the red trail.

This section of the trail in the Bieszczady offers truly diverse views – from shaded forest paths, through extensive clearings and meadows, to the more open spaces of the famous ‘połoniny’ (mountain pastures). Parts of the GSB near Bacówka pod Honem can be, and often are, demanding, with altitude changes and varied terrain, such as miniature gorges and ravines along the Solinka River, which you cross by bridge, often alongside the narrow-gauge railway tracks. (An interesting sight!). Spring and autumn can be particularly beautiful on this trail.

Hiking this trail is a real adventure and a great opportunity to test your strength, as well as to come across bear tracks, which, I must say, adds a thrill but also requires caution. You should watch out for the weather, especially wind or sudden frost.

Walking trails in the area – something for everyone?

In addition to the Main Beskid Trail, many other walking trails, both long ones and short loops, lead from Bacówka pod Honem and from Cisna itself. For example, from Cisna, you can reach Wołosań via the trail through Bacówka pod Honem, passing Osinę, Berest, and Sasów along the way, which is quite a popular route. You can also reach a waterfall or discover mysterious caves, and even find the source of a river.

From the summit of Wołosań, you can continue towards Mount Jaworne or descend via the green trail to Żubracze. The trails in the area offer routes for both novice hikers, looking for gentle strolls through valleys or to nearby, lower hills, and for experienced hikers wanting to conquer higher mountain sections, such as the peaks of the Border Range or the Łopiennik Massif. You can also reach a picturesque pond or lake.

Navigation apps were very helpful in staying on the planned route, although, actually, looking from another perspective, it’s always, but always, worth having a traditional paper map and compass too. Technology can be unreliable. Sometimes fog or rain will hit in the mountains.

Suggested mountain excursions from Bacówka pod Honem

Bacówka pod Honem is an ideal place to start or end many mountain expeditions. As a starting point, it opens the way to the Border Range, the Łopiennik Massif, or the Chryszczata Range.

From Hon, a path leads directly to Bacówka PTTK pod Honem in Cisna, which is, after all, the easiest way to reach the hut. You can plan shorter loops, e.g., from Cisna via the Bacówka to nearby peaks and back to Cisna, or, for the more ambitious, longer expeditions, combining a stay at the Bacówka with further hiking deeper into the Bieszczady.

The trail leads to the summits, passing Jaworne, Wołosań, and Hon, which gives us a beautiful view of the surroundings. The route also passes through Dołżyca, Łopiennik, Jabłonki, Wysoki Dział, and finally through Wołosań and Hon, arriving back at Bacówka pod Honem in Cisna. You can also cross a bridge, footbridge, or even a tunnel, if they are part of the trail. It’s worth paying attention to the signs and information boards.

However, remember that mountain weather conditions can significantly, and I mean significantly, change the actual walking time, so it’s always, without exception, worth getting current weather information from GOPR (Polish mountain rescue). Their knowledge is invaluable. An online camera can also show current conditions.

Gastronomy and services at the hut – what awaits the hiker?

Staying in the mountains isn’t just about intense hiking, as we know, but also moments of relaxation, which we most often spend at a communal table, sharing experiences. The food at Bacówka pod Honem, like in other huts in the Bieszczady, can pleasantly surprise you, and the services offered make the stay easier for hikers, even if they are basic. You can have breakfast, lunch, and dinner here.

Menu and dishes – what to expect?

The food at Bacówka pod Honem is, I must admit, tasty and among the best I’ve eaten in the mountains. (Seriously, a positive surprise!). The hut menu is often based, understandably, on simple, nutritious dishes, ideal after a full day’s walk when energy is running low. The offer includes soups, main courses, as well as drinks and desserts.

You’ll find soups here, of course, such as delicious ‘żurek’ (sour rye soup) or hearty ‘kapuśniak’ (cabbage soup), as well as simple but good main courses like goulash or cutlet. Pierogi (dumplings), gołąbki (cabbage rolls), placki (pancakes/fritters), knedle (dumplings), or kluski (noodles) might also be on offer. I particularly recommend the blueberry pancake, which turned out to be a brilliant dessert in the evening when I simply wanted something sweet. It’s worth trying local specialities if they’re available on a given day, although the offering, as in huts, can change depending on the season and deliveries. You might find ‘oscypek’ (smoked sheep’s cheese), ‘bundz’ (sheep’s milk cheese), ‘żentyca’ (whey), ‘kwaśnica’ (sauerkraut soup), ‘bigos’ (hunter’s stew), other cheeses, cold cuts, baked goods, bread, and even mead, tinctures, liqueurs, vodka, plum brandy, or moonshine. Sometimes a restaurant or inn is available nearby, but the hut’s kitchen is often sufficient. You can have beer or wine.

Bieszczady huts, in general, have done a fantastic job gastronomically, as Bacówka proves. You can eat fish, mushrooms, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, wild strawberries, bilberries, or nuts gathered in the area. The hearth in the kitchen gives the dishes a unique taste and smell, and sometimes you can see smoke rising from the chimney.

Price list and payment methods – practical tips

Information on accommodation and meal prices is usually available on-site at the hut or on its website. Opinions about prices can be found online.

Staying at the campsite usually involves a symbolic fee, for example, around 15 PLN. It is worth, and indeed necessary, to have cash with you, despite the increasing number of huts accepting card payments, but in the mountains, you never know if the terminal will work. It’s always a good idea to simply ask about current prices at the counter before ordering, to avoid misunderstandings. Sometimes you might find a promotion or a package with a discount.

Additional services – does the Bacówka offer anything more?

PTTK huts, including this one under Hon, often offer additional services that can be very helpful for tourists. Although comprehensive equipment rentals like in larger towns are not always available, in some huts you can rent basic items, which can be a lifesaver in emergencies.

Huts are also excellent places for organising smaller meetings or events in an intimate, mountain atmosphere. Access to the dining area with a kettle, the opportunity to spend time by the fireplace (if available and lit) or relax in a rocking chair, add charm to the stay and make you feel at home, or at least like you’re among good friends. You can also use the gazebo in the garden or on the terrace. Sometimes a group game or activity is organised. The peace and quiet favour harmony.

Active leisure in the Bieszczady – what besides climbing?

The Bieszczady are, let’s be honest, a real paradise for lovers of active leisure. Besides the obvious mountain hiking, the region offers plenty of other opportunities to spend time outdoors, and the area around Bacówka pod Honem is a great base for exploring them. You can find joy and smiles here.

Cycling trails – for whom?

The areas around Cisna and the entire Bieszczady offer an extensive network of cycling trails – from easy forest roads, ideal for relaxed family trips, to truly demanding ascents and descents for advanced mountain bikers seeking challenges. Cycling routes often lead through picturesque valleys, passing historic wooden churches (remembering the moving history of those in Smerk) or characteristic charcoal burning kilns (‘retorty’), allowing you to discover the Bieszczady from a completely different perspective.

It’s worth checking maps before your trip and choosing a trail perfectly suited to your abilities to avoid unpleasant surprises along the way. You can also seek opinions on online forums.

Fishing – where to cast a line?

The rivers and streams in the Bieszczady, such as the Solinka River, are a magnet for fishing enthusiasts. The clean waters of the mountain streams are home to various fish species, making them an attractive spot for anglers. A fisherman will find something for themselves here.

Of course, before fishing, it is absolutely necessary to familiarise yourself with the regulations in force and purchase the appropriate permits to avoid trouble. Cisna and its surroundings offer many charming spots by the water, where you can peacefully indulge in your passion for fishing surrounded by beautiful and unspoilt nature. (True relaxation!).

Other activities – what else can you do in the Bieszczady?

The Bieszczady are an ideal place for many other equally interesting activities. In autumn, for example, the forests abound with mushrooms, making the region a true paradise for mushroom pickers. The richness of fauna and flora makes the Bieszczady an excellent area for bird and insect watching and nature photography – your camera is, or at least should be, in constant use throughout the journey to capture the beauty of a snow-covered trail or majestic trees.

Coming across bear tracks on the trail or admiring the sunrise or sunset from a summit are simply unforgettable experiences that stay with you for a long time. The sky, clouds, rainbow, moon, and stars over the Bieszczady are breathtaking sights. The option of pitching a tent by the hut with a view of the mountains is a fantastic choice for those who want to be even closer to nature, waking up literally with a view of the peaks, trees, and flowers on the grass.

Bieszczady – why is this region unique?

The Bieszczady are a mountain range with an absolutely unique character, which has constantly fascinated and attracted crowds of tourists for years. Their wildness, that specific calmness, and the unique beauty of the landscapes make them a special place on the map of Poland and the entire Western Carpathians, with which we feel, it must be said, a strong connection.

Although, I must admit, my heart is always madly in love with the Tatras, and I also have positive experiences with the Karkonosze, the Bieszczady have something unique about them. Every nature explorer will confirm this.

Landscape and nature – what distinguishes the Bieszczady?

The landscape of the Bieszczady is distinguished primarily by gentle, grass-covered ‘połoniny’ (mountain pastures), vast, mysterious forests, and charming valleys through which rivers flow, such as the aforementioned Solinka, as well as streams and brooks. From many summits, like Fereczata, there is a view of the Slovakian part of the Bieszczady, the Low Beskids, or the western part of the Bieszczady seen from Wołosań, which gives us perspective and allows us to appreciate the scale of these mountains.

This region, largely protected (such as the Ciśniańsko-Wetliński Landscape Park, in whose area Wołosań is located, among others), has, to our delight, retained its original character, which is its greatest asset. We treat the mountains, after all, as a great opportunity for quiet contemplation and true, deep rest, away from the city bustle. You can encounter animals and plants characteristic of this climate here. The summer and winter seasons offer completely different, but equally beautiful, scenes.

Flora and fauna – are the Bieszczady home to wild animals?

The Bieszczady are famous, and rightly so, for their rich nature. Many species of plants and animals occur here that are rare, or even unique, in other regions of Poland. The Bieszczady forests are, and this commands respect, home to large predators such as bears (yes, we even came across their tracks on the trail, which gets the heart racing!), wolves, and lynx. You can spot birds and insects here, as well as deer, roe deer, and bison.

You can encounter majestic European bison, shy deer, nimble roe deer, and, of course, numerous species of birds and smaller mammals. The characteristic flora of the ‘połoniny’, with herbs and grasses flowering in summer, simply creates unforgettable, almost picturesque views. The previously mentioned name Smerek, by the way, comes from the word “smrek” meaning spruce, which is an interesting linguistic fact. You can also find raspberries, blackberries, wild strawberries, bilberries, or nuts.

History and culture – the mysteries of the Bieszczady

The Bieszczady are a region with a complex and often very turbulent history, which should not be forgotten. Evidence of this past includes the remains of former villages, old cemeteries (like the one on the slopes of Chryszczata, a cemetery from the period of World War I, where soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian and Russian armies rest – a moving place), or, sadly, traces of wooden churches (remember the tragic history of the church in Smerk, which burned down after being struck by lightning, and then again, as a result of clashes with UPA bands, which ultimately led to Operation Vistula and the resettlement of inhabitants deep into Ukraine – this is a significant piece of history worth exploring).

In 2008, the residents of Smerk tidied up the area of the former church and cemetery, paying tribute to the past. For centuries, this region was a melting pot of cultures, inhabited by Boykos, Lemkos, Poles, and Jews, which is visible in the architecture, art, crafts, and traditions. The customs and rituals of the region are fascinating. A souvenir in the form of handicrafts is a great keepsake.

Contemporary Bieszczady cultivate this rich tradition, visible in local architecture, folk art, or regional cuisine, which adds authenticity to the place. In the region, you can come across characteristic, often colourful figures, such as the famous ‘Zakapior z Bieszczad’ (a local Bieszczady character), and even, as I once had the opportunity, meet a driver who will tell a fascinating story of his family originating from Kyrgyzstan, such as Mr. Andrij Kirim, whom I met hitchhiking once. Some people come here, after all, inspired by popular TV series like ‘Wataha’ (The Pack), known, among other things, for its Border Guard unit, which only shows how many faces the Bieszczady have. Legends and myths come alive in stories. You can meet an artist, musician, writer, painter, or photographer here. Every creator will find inspiration.

Bacówka pod Honem – everything in a nutshell

Bacówka pod Honem in Cisna is a place that, without a doubt, is worth visiting when planning a holiday in the Bieszczady. It’s an ideal place for holidays, vacations, breaks, a weekend, a May break, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, or New Year. You can organise a barbecue or bonfire.

It’s such a bustling hut, located in the Wysoki Dział range on the north-eastern slope of Mount Hon, perfectly situated right next to the Main Beskid Trail. It serves as an excellent starting point for acclimatisation in the mountains, offering basic but comfortable accommodation (including a camping option for a small fee), tasty food in the dining area, and facilities such as toilets, a bathroom with shower and toilet, and a dining area with an available kettle. A room, bed, blankets, bedding, towels – all this awaits guests.

It is also a fantastic starting point for the Border Range, the Łopiennik Massif, the Chryszczata Range, as well as popular peaks like Mała Rawka, Tarnica, Połonina Wetlińska, or Bukowe Berdo. From here you can set off on routes of varying difficulty, admire the views and panorama, and also come across a pond, lake, waterfall, source, or cave. Sometimes there is fog or heat on the trail.

Although, to be fair, it can get crowded and you sometimes have to wait for service at the counter, and sleeping on the floor without appropriate equipment, such as a blanket or sleeping mat, is, let’s be honest, a challenge, the atmosphere and location in the heart of the mountains compensate for any minor inconvenience. Guest opinions and reviews usually confirm this. It’s worth checking mountain hut rankings in the Bieszczady.

Remember that the trail leading to the summit of Mała Rawka, especially in winter or difficult conditions, might require crampons, and in the Bieszczady, it’s always worth having a warm drink in a thermos, especially when the weather suddenly changes and, as happens, you get caught in a storm, for example at Żebrak Pass by the tourist shelter. Frost in winter can be biting.

The road leading through the valley to Kalnica, those characteristic charcoal burning kilns (‘retorty’), or the mysterious Jeziorka Duszatyńskie lakes formed as a result of a giant landslide from under Chryszczata, are just some of the numerous attractions in the area waiting to be discovered. You can also see the local animals and plants there. Let’s remember to respect nature and the environment.

Regardless of whether you are experienced hikers who have ‘cut their teeth’ on mountain trails, or you are just starting your adventure with the mountains, Bacówka pod Honem and its surroundings will certainly provide you with unforgettable experiences and allow you, at least for a moment, to completely detach from everyday life. This place is a recommendation for every Bieszczady enthusiast.