We invite you to the heart of the Bieszczady Mountains, to a place of extraordinary history and atmosphere – Jaworzec. Although today it’s primarily known as the name of a charming valley and the popular PTTK mountain hut, Jaworzec holds much more. It tells the story of a former, vibrant village that vanished from maps. When planning your hike along the Bieszczady trails, whether dreaming of conquering Smerek or simply seeking peace away from the hustle and bustle, it’s worth getting to know this unique place. The Jaworzec refuge, commonly known as the Jaworzec bacówka, is an ideal base camp, but also a destination in itself. It’s located in the Bieszczady Mountains, becoming an important point on the region’s tourist map.

Many people search for information about Bacówka PTTK Jaworzec, its history, access, or available routes. And regardless of whether you’re interested in Bieszczady bacówkas in general, or specifically the Jaworzec refuge, this guide is intended to provide you with all the necessary information. From the history of Jaworzec as a former village, through details about the bacówka itself, to suggestions for trails and attractions in the area. Get ready to discover a place that can truly captivate you.

The History of Jaworzec and its Bacówka

Jaworzec, although many today associate it mainly with the refuge, has a rich and, unfortunately, often tragic history dating back centuries. Today, Jaworzec is primarily a picturesque valley of the Wetlinka river and essentially the only inhabited building below Kalnica – precisely the PTTK Bacówka. However, the past of this non-existent village is incredibly fascinating, recounted by the humble remnants and traces of former life that can still be found here if you only look closely.

Delving into this history allows for a much better understanding of the unique character of this corner of the Bieszczady Mountains. Because the Bieszczady are not just mountains, but also the stories of the people who lived here.

Beginnings of settlement in the Wetlinka valley

The beginnings of settlement in the valley of today’s Wetlinka river, formerly known as Górna Solina, date back to the times of King Sigismund the Old. It was he who divided this valley. The Kmita family founded only one village on the border stretch of the Solina river – Jaworzec. This was something of a rarity in the Polish Carpathians, as the village was located only on the right, eastern bank of the Wetlinka.

The village’s name comes from the sycamore maple (jawor), a tree that has grown in these areas for centuries and was used, among other things, for making musical instruments such as trembitas and fifes. An interesting fact, isn’t it?

The Bals of Hoczew, the second family colonising these lands, focused more on the Hoczewka, Solinka, and Wetlinka valleys, founding three other villages on their section: Kalnica, Łuh, and Zawój. Later, they also founded Strubowiska in the area of Kalnica, currently known as Strzebowiska. And in Jaworzec, just like in other mountain settlements in the region, Wallachian law was in effect, perfectly adapted to the specifics of life in the mountains.

Who owned Jaworzec? a long list…

The history of Jaworzec’s ownership is, it’s safe to say, long and convoluted. Initially, as we’ve mentioned, the village belonged to the Kmitas, specifically it was founded by Barbara Kmita née Herburt, widow of Piotr Kmita, who was the Grand Marshal of the Crown and Voivode of Krakow.

Piotr Kmita actively expanded his estates in these areas, resulting in the establishment of, among others, Sianki, Smerek, and Jaworzec itself. In 1580, the village passed into the hands of Stanisław and Katarzyna Herburt, and from 1589 belonged to Erazm Herburt. Subsequent owners included the Boguskis (from 1630), the Romers (from 1663), and later the Łosies, who owned the estate from 1790 to 1880. Jaworzec then passed into the hands of the Golejowskis.

A turning point came in 1891. It was then that Urszula Golejowska née Łoś transferred Jaworzec, as well as Sakowczyk, Studenne, and Rajskie, to the Sisters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul from Lviv. The sisters were to run and maintain an institution for the terminally ill in that city. In 1589, 1.5 peasant łans were settled in Jaworzec, as well as 1 łan belonging to the village mayor. Strange times, weren’t they?

Watchtower and beskidnicy stronghold

Jaworzec, being the furthest south-western point in the Kmita estates, served an important watchtower role at one time. It seems that in case of an invasion from beyond the Carpathians, the residents of the hamlet of Bereh, situated on a scenic escarpment above the Wetlinka, would have been the first to spot the enemy. And transmit a signal to the San valley, perhaps even to Otryt. How exactly did this work? It’s difficult to say today.

Jaworzec was also a known stronghold of ‘beskidnicy’ (mountain bandits/outlaws) as early as the 17th century. The village survived centuries, but its history tragically ended in 1947, when all 557 inhabitants were forcibly resettled from the village as part of ‘Akcja Wisła’ (Operation Vistula). Since then, Jaworzec as a village ceased to exist. And today, only humble remnants and the legend of the bacówka, which fortunately has become an integral part of the Bieszczady landscape, serve as a reminder.

Bacówka PTTK in Jaworzec: its history and functions

Among the PTTK mountain huts, the one in Jaworzec certainly occupies a special place. It was built during a period when the network of ‘bacówka’ type refuges, adapted to the needs of more experienced, independent tourists, was being expanded. It’s a building with characteristic wooden architecture, perfectly blended into the Bieszczady landscape. Bacówka PTTK in Jaworzec became a symbol of the revival of tourism in this valley after years of post-war turmoil. (A jolly good job!)

Project and construction of the bacówka: Moskała’s vision

The only characteristic building in the Wetlinka valley below Kalnica, on the site of the former village of Jaworzec, is the PTTK Bacówka. It was officially opened on 3rd October 1976. It was the first such facility in the Bieszczady Mountains, built as part of a larger plan to construct PTTK bacówkas. They were intended to meet the expectations of tourists looking for more intimate accommodation options.

The author of the refuge’s characteristic design was the architect engineer Stanisław Karpiel from Zakopane. The investor was the PTTK Tourist Facilities Team in Sanok, and the contractor was the PTTK Repair and Construction Plant, also from Sanok. The originator of the entire undertaking was the well-known activist and legend of Polish tourism – Edward Moskała. Unfortunately, the older PTTK Bacówka on Lubań in Gorce burned down in 1978, showing that the history of refuges can be turbulent. Bacówka pod Małą Rawką, another facility of this type, was built in 1979.

In the Bieszczady Mountains, besides the Bacówka in Jaworzec, two other facilities of this type were built: Bacówka pod Małą Rawką and Pod Honem in Cisna. Originally, there were plans to build a bacówka also on Przełęcz Żebrak, but eventually this didn’t happen. (A shame, there would have been more options!)

Facilities and amenities: accommodation, food, and atmosphere

The Bacówka in Jaworzec offers tourists basic, but nonetheless important facilities. It’s an ideal place to rest after a strenuous hike, to spend the night in the conditions of a true mountain refuge and, importantly, to eat well. There are several dozen beds available in rooms of various configurations. They even have a single room endearingly called “Jaskółka” (Swallow).

The bacówka runs a buffet where you can enjoy a warm meal or have a cup of tea. From the bacówka, there’s a beautiful panorama, including views of the Falowa range. The area around the bacówka is lovely and well-maintained, and in the summer, you can see tents pitched, benches, and deckchairs here. All this is surrounded by fine trees. Although the bacówka has changed ownership, it still fulfils its original function, serving as a hospitable stop for hikers. You can have a delicious breakfast here before setting off on the trail or relax upon your return.

Sometimes the refuge staff can help organise a lift, which is particularly useful on the bumpy access road – although this usually requires a 4×4 jeep with a differential lock, which not everyone has in their garage.

Who is the bacówka for? for those seeking quiet

From the very beginning of its existence, Bacówka PTTK in Jaworzec was conceived as a place for individual tourists and groups primarily seeking contact with nature and a real mountain adventure. Its location in the Wetlinka valley, away from the main roads, makes it an ideal spot for those who value peace and quiet. Those who aren’t afraid of an owl hooting in the evening.

It offers accommodation in simple but authentic mountain conditions. Full board (breakfast, lunch, dinner as per the available menu), and an atmosphere that positively encourages integration among tourists. It’s an excellent base camp for nearby trails, but also a place where you can simply spend time. Admire the Bieszczady landscapes while reading a book on the terrace. The bacówka is open all year round, although, well, access in winter can be really difficult.

Information about the bacówka, its location (Wetlina, Kalnica – often searched for this way), how to get there, what the trails are like, where to find a map, if there’s parking, and what’s on the menu, is widely available, including often on the bacówka’s Facebook page, which makes planning your stay easier. The Bacówka in Jaworzec in the Bieszczady Mountains is a spot that a lover of this region should visit at least once. Can one even imagine the Bieszczady without Jaworzec?

Tourist trails around Jaworzec

Jaworzec’s location makes it an excellent starting point or stop on many Bieszczady trails. The available routes allow you to discover both the high połoniny (mountain pastures) and the charming valleys of former villages. It’s an ideal place to plan a hike tailored to your abilities and time, fully enjoying the beauty of Bieszczady nature.

On foot to Smerek and the surrounding area

A blue trail leads from Jaworzec, which is part of the former biographical trail named after General Karol Świerczewski (yes, I know, a controversial figure, but the name has stuck). This trail leads, among other places, from Dołżyca through Falowa straight to Jaworzec. And then further to Przełęcz Mieczysława Orłowicza.

From Przełęcz Orłowicza, you can continue hiking along the red trail towards Smerek. The ascent of Smerek often starts precisely in Kalnica. Approaching Smerek from the west, you see this peak, at 1222 metres above sea level, in all its glory. The summit of Smerek is topped with a cross; a metal crucifix was placed there in 2018 to commemorate the centenary of Poland’s independence. A nice touch at the summit!

From Jaworzec, you can also set off towards Przełęcz Orłowicza, from where the trail descends to Przełęcz Orłowicza and then to Wetlina. Other trails passing through Jaworzec include the black trail, leading from Wysoki Dział, which connects with the red one below the Jaworne peak. This black trail goes through Jabłonki, Łopiennik, Czerenina, Jaworzec, and Krysowa. Przełęcz Orłowicza also connects with the red trail from the other side. From Jaworzec, it’s also an excellent starting point for the former villages of Łuh and Zawój. Descending the trail from Kiczera, one supposedly emerged in Łuh, opposite the serfdom cross in Jaworzec. It’s worth remembering that in the Bieszczady Mountains, unlike some other mountain ranges, there aren’t many circular tourist routes, so you often have to plan to return the same way or arrange transport.

By bike and horse in the Wetlinka valley

The Wetlinka valley, where Jaworzec is located, also offers opportunities for cycling enthusiasts. There are roads and paths here which, although not always officially designated cycling trails, allow for pleasant rides surrounded by wild nature. The road leading to Jaworzec, despite being bumpy and requiring suitable equipment (like the 4×4 jeep I mentioned earlier), is perfectly accessible for mountain bikes.

Horse riding opportunities around Jaworzec are rather limited to the offerings of local stables and equestrian centres. They organise trips along less frequented roads and paths in the Bieszczady Mountains. It’s always worth asking at the bacówka or local tourist information points for current possibilities and recommendations, as the situation can change.

Accessibility for people with disabilities: challenges

Reaching Bacówka PTTK in Jaworzec, frankly speaking, can be a significant challenge for people with limited mobility. The access road is gravel, narrow, and bumpy, making it difficult to navigate in a standard car. Let alone a wheelchair. Tourist trails in the Bieszczady Mountains, including those around Jaworzec, are mostly mountain paths, often steep and rocky, which unfortunately makes them inaccessible for people in wheelchairs.

It must be admitted that the tourist infrastructure in the Bieszczady still needs to be adapted to the needs of people with disabilities. But it’s worth contacting the bacówka directly to inquire about potential support or access by specialised transport, if such a need exists. Maybe something can be arranged.

Tourist attractions near Jaworzec

Jaworzec is an excellent base camp for discovering the charms of the entire Bieszczady region. Although the place itself is an oasis of peace (in the summer season, when tents are pitched, perhaps a little less peaceful, but still!), there are many attractions in its nearby vicinity that will satisfy various tastes of tourists. From lovers of mountain hiking to history and nature enthusiasts.

Villages worth visiting: Wetlina, Kalnica, Cisna

Near Jaworzec, you will find several well-known Bieszczady villages. Wetlina, a few kilometres away, is a popular tourist centre with numerous guesthouses, restaurants, and shops – you could say it’s the tourist heart of the region. The village of Wetlina owes its name to the ‘wetlynia’, a type of willow growing in these areas. It is a village with about 300 inhabitants. In Kalnica, located just 3 km south of Jaworzec, trails to Smerek often begin.

Cisna, 3 km from Dołżyca (which the trail also passes through), is another important place on the Bieszczady map, known among other things for Bacówka Pod Honem. From Ustrzyki Dolne, if someone feels like it, you can head to a festival in Slovakia. It’s worth remembering that the Bieszczady Mountains, despite growing popularity, can still surprise with their wildness. Although in the summer season or during events like the Moto-Fest, which starts in Lesko, you can already expect quite large crowds of tourists.

Other villages, or rather former villages, worth noting are Łuh and Zawój, which once bordered Jaworzec. You can set off for a walk there, discovering what remains of the traces of the past.

Mountains and panoramas: Smerek, Bukowe Berdo, and others

The area around Jaworzec is a true paradise for lovers of mountain panoramas. Trails from the Jaworzec refuge lead to nearby peaks, offering a chance for moments with breathtaking views. The aforementioned Smerek is a very popular hiking destination. Beautiful views unfold from Przełęcz Orłowicza, and Połonina Wetlińska itself is located several hundred metres from the summit of Smerek. From Połonina Caryńska, you can admire the view of Mała Rawka and Wielka Rawka.

Other peaks in the vicinity include Bukowe Berdo, which many associate with the blackberries and raspberries that grow there (so-called ‘zernice’). Rozsypaniec neighbours Halicz, which in turn neighbours Tarnica. The Rawkas border Krzemieniec, a peak located on the border of three countries (Poland, Slovakia, Ukraine). Even less prominent elevations, such as Wysokie Berdo, branching off from Smerek to the north (where the ridge goes towards Krysowa), or Bukowina (911 m), Siwarna (924 m), Krysowa (840 m), and Kiczera (931 m), near which Jaworzec lay, offer interesting views and are destinations for less frequented routes. As a guide friend of mine says: “Sometimes the most beautiful views are where the fewest people go.” The Kobylski stream flows from Wysokie Berdo to the Wetlinka, and a tourist shelter stands in that area.

Other attractions: rivers, forests, and wild nature

The Wetlinka valley and the surroundings of Jaworzec are also rich in wild nature that can captivate you. The Wetlinka river, along which a path runs, attracts lovers of swimming in mountain streams in the summer – something that would be impossible, for example, in the Tatra Mountains! Sights of campers standing on a makeshift “beach” along the Wetlinka are typical of the summer landscape of this place.

The forests surrounding Jaworzec are full of life. Although encountering large predators like wolves (once supposedly scared away by the loud sounds of instruments made from sycamore) is rare, you can still admire the richness of fauna and flora. For example, the flowering rosebay willowherb, which colours the clearings purple in summer.

The area around the bacówka, beautiful and well-maintained, with space for tents, benches, and deckchairs, allows for relaxation in the lap of nature. In the valley, you can also see charcoal burners, known as ‘Retorty’, familiar to fans of the series “Wataha” (The Pack), which for many was an inspiration to visit the Bieszczady. And of course, one cannot forget the traces of the former village, such as the church site, cemetery, or serfdom cross, which add depth and mystery to the place. It is these details that create the unique atmosphere of Jaworzec.

Practical information for tourists

Preparing for a trip to the Bieszczady, especially to a place like Jaworzec, requires considering a few logistical matters. Getting there, accommodation, and food are essential elements worth planning in advance. Why? So that you can fully enjoy the charms of this region without unnecessary stress.

How to get to Jaworzec?

Access to Jaworzec by car is possible, but, let’s be honest, it requires attention and often suitable equipment. The road leading to the bacówka from Wetlina is gravel and, depending on the weather (rain can make it dreadful), it can be difficult to drive without a 4×4 vehicle. From Kalnica, you turn off towards the Jaworzec refuge; this is also the same type of road. Fortunately, there is paid parking near the Wetlinka river in Wetlina, where you can leave your car. A new bridge over the Wetlinka was recently built in Kobylskie, which certainly facilitates movement in that area.

Public transport in the Bieszczady is, unfortunately, quite limited. Buses run to the nearest villages, such as Wetlina or Kalnica, for example from Lublin to Ustrzyki Dolne (via Sanok). However, from the bus stop in Wetlina or Kalnica to Bacówka PTTK in Jaworzec, you still have to walk a few kilometres. Or try to arrange transport. In winter, ah, winter in the Bieszczady, the Bieszczady Loop Road can be covered in snow, making movement even more difficult. It’s always worth checking current timetables, road conditions, and the weather forecast before travelling – that’s essential.

Where to stay overnight? In the bacówka and nearby

The main accommodation option in Jaworzec itself is, of course, Bacówka PTTK. The refuge offers beds in dormitory rooms and smaller quarters, such as the aforementioned “Jaskółka” for a single person. Booking, especially in high season, is very, very strongly recommended, as the bacówka is very popular. There are often more people wanting to stay than there are beds.

Other PTTK refuges and bacówkas are also available in the Bieszczady. For example, pod Małą Rawką, which also enjoys constant popularity (although the peak Mała Rawka itself does not offer accommodation), or Bacówka Pod Honem in Cisna. The latter can be a good place to start, a kind of acclimatisation before more difficult routes. If the Bacówka in Jaworzec is full or you’re looking for other options, nearby villages such as Wetlina or Kalnica offer a wide selection of guesthouses, private lodgings, summer cottages, and campsites. And importantly, within the Jaworzec area, in the summer season, you can pitch your own tent, using the bacówka’s facilities.

Where to eat in Jaworzec and nearby?

The Bacówka in Jaworzec, as is probably obvious, provides full board. The refuge offers simple, nutritious meals. Just right for a tired hiker after a long trek. You can have breakfast, lunch, or dinner here. Reviews of the bacówka often highlight the homely atmosphere and, most importantly, tasty meals. I have a feeling the food here is really good!

In nearby villages such as Wetlina or Cisna, you will find a much wider choice of restaurants, inns (e.g., Karczma Skup Runa Leśnego, after which the road to Kalnica turns off), and bars. They offer both regional dishes and more traditional fare. It’s worth trying local specialities, such as oscypek cheese, although in a Bieszczady bacówka, oscypek is rather associated with Podhale. Sheep’s cheeses from Bieszczady can also be found, but they have their own characteristics specific to these mountains. Although there aren’t many options in Jaworzec itself besides the refuge, the rich culinary offer in the surrounding area allows you to satisfy any culinary desires. No worries, you won’t go hungry.

Jaworzec and its cultural heritage

Beyond its obvious natural qualities, Jaworzec holds a rich cultural heritage. It bears witness to centuries of settlement history and the intermingling of cultures in these lands. Discovering these traces of the past adds depth to every visit to this magical valley. It’s not just mountains; it’s also a history lesson.

The church in Jaworzec: a past that vanished

Although no visible fragments of the church in Jaworzec remain above ground, the history of the local Greek Catholic parish is, fortunately, well-documented. The parish in Jaworzec initially belonged to the Baligród deanery, and later to the Cisna deanery. It also included filial churches in the neighbouring villages of Łuh and Zawój.

The parish was most likely established in 1767, when the then owner of Jaworzec, Maciej Łoś, granted land for its operation. The patron saint of the parish church was Saint Demetrius the Great Martyr, also known as Demetrius of Thessaloniki, a saint venerated in both the Catholic Church (feast day 26 October) and the Orthodox Church (feast day 8 November). Local organisations, such as a temperance brotherhood, and a parish school operated near the church. Today, only the church site remains, an area overgrown with trees several decades old, located next to the former church cemetery. Have you ever wondered what life was like in such a village a few hundred years ago?

Cemetery and remnants of the former village: traces in the ground

Next to the church site in Jaworzec is the church cemetery. Unfortunately, no tombstones have survived in this cemetery, and the area is overgrown with trees, making it very difficult to identify for the untrained eye. However, near the Chapel of St. Demetrius, which most likely originated in the mid-19th century and existed in 1852, there was another cemetery. This chapel was a wooden, rectangular building measuring 7.5 x 4.6 metres. The cemetery next to it had an irregular oval shape with an area of about 7.5 ares. It was situated on a headland and bounded on three sides by steep escarpments. A overturned sandstone tombstone, two broken cast-iron crosses (likely cast in the Cisna forge of Count Henryk Fredro, brother of the famous playwright Aleksander Fredro), and a wooden tombstone were found there.

The modern three-barred cross visible from the Bacówka stands on this cemetery. In Jaworzec at the end of the 19th century, 451 inhabitants lived there, including 71 Roman Catholics. These might have held services in the chapel. Jaworzec then belonged to the Roman Catholic parish in Wołkowyja, part of the Sanok deanery.

On the eastern slope of Bukowina, there is a mass grave of soldiers who died in the battles of World War I in 1914-1915. Another important trace of the past is the serfdom cross in Borożyszcze, a place in the fork of the Wetlinka and Czerteż stream. This cast-iron cross was erected in 1848, commemorating the abolition of serfdom. It is a Karawaka cross, or a double-barred cross, intended to protect against misfortunes and diseases, such as the epidemic prevalent in Galicia in the mid-19th century. The “Magurycz” Association, in cooperation with the Association for the Development of Wetlina and Surroundings, made a copy of this cross, mounting figures of Christ and Adam’s Skull on it.

The decision to abolish serfdom in Galicia was announced by Governor Franz von Stadion in 1848, although supposedly without the Emperor’s consent. Count Karol Łoś, the then owner of Jaworzec, remembering the cruelties of the Galician jacquerie, issued serfdom decrees to the peasants. These were buried near the church after a funeral procession – this event, and especially the threat of digging up the serfdom registers in Bóbrka, may have been the cause of the Lesko Uprising in 1932. Complicated history.

Traces of the former village also include the foundations of the bridge piers over the Wetlinka, visible from Jaworzec, and the site of the manor buildings (built 1852, parcelled out 1921, dismantled between the wars) and a water mill (located 1100m south of the confluence of the Kobylski stream with the Wetlinka), which were inventoried in the 1950s by W. Korzeniewicz and W. Świątecki from the Section of Rural Architecture and Folk Art of the Department of Polish Architecture of the Faculty of Architecture at Warsaw University of Technology (although the inventory location was mistakenly described as Kalnica, which happens, mistakes occur).

The area of the former villages of Jaworzec, Łuh, and Zawój is covered by the historical trail “Bieszczady Found”. It leads through the cemetery, church site, serfdom cross, and the place where a reconstruction of a Bojko cottage stands. Its owner was Wasyl Kaczor, resettled as part of “Akcja Wisła” along with his family (wife Ewa, sons Jurko and Dymitr). All this together creates an incredibly fascinating picture of Jaworzec’s past, sometimes difficult to grasp for contemporary people.

Folklore and traditions: from Bojkos to Zakapiorzy

The Bieszczady region, including the area of the former village of Jaworzec, was inhabited for centuries by people of diverse cultural roots, primarily the Bojkos, an ethnic group with a pastoral and agricultural culture. And although after the resettlements the traditional material and spiritual culture largely disappeared, its traces are still present for those who can perceive them.

Elements such as Wallachian law or instruments made from sycamore, like the trembita, testify to ancient traditions associated with mountain life and pastoralism. Contemporary Bieszczady is a place where the traditions of the former inhabitants intertwine with a new culture created by settlers and tourists. Sometimes this mix can be surprising, but always interesting!

Local festivals and concerts are organised. Local artists and craftsmen often reference the heritage of the Bojkos and Łemkos (Lemkos). Figures such as the “Zakapior from Bieszczady”, often a musician and artist, symbolise the new, unique identity of the region. Stories told by residents, like that of Andrij Kirim, a driver telling the history of his family from Kyrgyzstan, show how contemporary Bieszczady has become a meeting place for different cultures. Fascinating, isn’t it?

Contemporary Bieszczady folklore also includes numerous legends and stories, often related to the difficult history of these lands and their wild nature. It is these, like the traces in the ground, that create the magic of this place.

Discover Jaworzec and feel the spirit of the Bieszczady

By visiting the Bacówka in Jaworzec, you have a unique chance to touch the true spirit of the Bieszczady. It’s not just another stop on the trail or a place to spend the night. It is, above all, a gateway to understanding the history, culture, and extraordinary nature of this region. Whether hiking to Smerek, discovering the traces of the former village, or simply sitting on the bacówka terrace and admiring the view, I am convinced that everyone will find something for themselves here. The Bieszczady are waiting for you to discover their secrets. And Jaworzec is, in my opinion, the ideal place to start this unforgettable adventure. Regardless of the season, Jaworzec, a refuge in the Bieszczady, offers a unique experience of closeness to nature and history. It’s a journey that, I guarantee, stays in your memory for a long time.