Dear travellers and lovers of Polish history! Today we take you to a unique place on the map of Poland, to the small village of Tum near Łęczyca. Although the village itself is small, it hides a true pearl of Romanesque architecture – the monumental church of Tum, officially the Archdiocese of the Blessed Virgin Mary Queen and St. Alexe in Tum. This is one of the oldest and best-preserved churches in Poland, and we want to show you why it’s worth a visit and explore its fascinating history. Get ready for a journey back in time, full of curiosities, legends and impressive Romanesque art in Poland!

History of the Archikolegiate: from the Romanesque foundation to the present day

The history of this remarkable place goes back very far into the past, as far as the beginnings of the Polish state. According to older research, it was here, in Tuma, that the first Benedictine abbey in Poland, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary the Queen and Saint Alexis, was founded by Bolesław Chrobry himself and with the participation of Saint Adalbert. Although the Archikolegiata in Tuma itself, which we see today, was erected a little later, in the 12th century, its foundations grew into the soil of a rich religious and political history. It is worth knowing a detailed description of this building.

The origins of the temple can be linked to a wider missionary campaign that accompanied the renewal of the Piast monarchy under Casimir the Restorer. Construction may have begun as early as 1149 on the initiative of the Metropolitan of Gniezno, Janik, successor to the late Archbishop James. It is worth noting that the Archikolegiata performed a very important function, hosting historical figures and colourful processions of bishops and princes. It was also one of the first collegiate schools in medieval Poland. It was built in the Romanesque style, mainly with materials such as granite, sandstone and fieldstone, which gives it its characteristic austere character.

Legends and facts about the construction: the devil Boruta and his involvement

Every historical place has its legends, and the Archikolegiata in Tuma near Łęczyca is full of them, especially those related to the Łęczyca land and the figure of the devil Boruta. It is said that the monumental collegiate church in Tuma was built in just 20 years, because the devil Boruta himself helped with the work! The workers at the construction site, clever and daring, sent a pretty maiden to the devil. Boruta, who preferred to sit in taverns and play with pretty girls, liked to drink and have fun, so he readily agreed to help with the construction… thinking he was putting up an inn.

It was only when two towers began to be erected next to the ‘inn’ that the devil realised he had been tricked. Out of anger, he grabbed the base of one of the towers and tried to topple the temple. According to legend, these holes, which can still be seen on the base of the tower, are the claw marks of the devil who wanted to knock it over. Of course, more mundane facts tell us that these shapely dimples are in fact the marks of fire augers, medieval fire-chopping tools, perhaps associated with some kind of ritual. Either way, the story of the devil Boruta trying to topple the tower of the archikolegiate is extremely colourful and you can even see a depiction of it in the exhibition dedicated to the devil Boruta in the Museum in Łęczyca!

Founders and builders: from Bolesław Chrobry to Jan Zachwatowicz

As we have already mentioned, according to older research, the Benedictine abbey was supposed to have been founded by Bolesław Chrobry and Saint Adalbert. On the other hand, the probable founder of the Romanesque collegiate church in Tuma was Salomea of Berg, widow of Duke Bolesław the Wrymouth. After his death, she received the land of Łęczyca as her widow’s wardship and it was on this land that the temple was built. The consecration of the church, or solemn consecration, was carried out in 1161 by the Archbishop of Gniezno, Janik. It was an event of great political and religious significance – the ceremony was attended by all Polish bishops, as well as notable district princes: Bolesław Kędzierzawy, Henryk Sandomierski, Kazimierz Sprawiedliwy and Odon, son of Mieszko Stary.

The collegiate church was built rather quickly for the time, in just 20 years, which is testament to the enormous commitment and resources devoted to it (although considering medieval technology, it is still impressive!). Over the centuries the building was destroyed and rebuilt, only regaining its original Romanesque character after the Second World War. The decision to rebuild in 1947 was made by Jan Zachwatowicz, and the work was directed by Jan Witkiewicz Koszczyc on the recommendation of the conservation authorities. The aforementioned conservation work restoring the splendour of this stone church in Tuma near Łęczyca was carried out by specialists such as Dr Zenon Duda of the AGH University of Science and Technology in Kraków (drainage-construction), Prof Andrzej Koss of the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw (body and sculptural decoration) and Prof Maria Roznerska and her daughter Ewa (wall paintings, frescoes). The first mass after the war was celebrated in the rebuilt church by the Ordinary of Lodz, which was an important moment for the local community and the whole Polish history.

Destruction and reconstruction: invasions, fires and wars

Unfortunately, the turbulent history of Poland did not spare the Archikolegiate Church in Tuma. This church was repeatedly destroyed and looted by various invaders. In 1293 (or 1294), the Lithuanians under Witenes managed to capture it. Further serious damage was caused by the Teutonic invasions of Łęczyca in 1306 and 1331.

In 1473, the temple was consumed by fire, followed by a reconstruction completed in 1487, introducing Gothic touches. Another blow came during the Swedish Deluge – in 1705 the Swedes, destroying Łęczyca, also destroyed the collegiate church. This destruction was followed by reconstruction in classicist style in the years 1765-1785, initiated on the initiative of Primate Łubieński and financed at the expense of Bishop Kajetan Sołtyk, with work led by the architect Efraim Szreger. These changes significantly affected the appearance of the Archikolegiate (although, in my opinion, they somewhat lost its austere Romanesque character).

The towers, nave, west facade, gables and windows were then rebuilt. The interior also acquired a classicist character. The walls of the side aisles were lowered by 2 metres, the emporium arcades were walled up, the inter-nave pillars were bricked up and the towers were topped with classical helmets. Unfortunately, fate once again befell the Tuma Archdiocese during the Second World War. In September 1939, during the Battle of the Bzura, the church suffered severe damage. A German observer hid in the north tower and Polish artillery shelled the church, eliminating this observation post. Later, the Luftwaffe bombed the archicolegiate church. After the war, it was decided to restore its original Romanesque appearance, removing the Baroque plasterwork and decorations, as well as the main altar and epitaphs added in later centuries. It was titanic work, but the effect can still be seen today, the temple once again presenting itself as it did in the 12th century.

The architecture of the archikolegiate church: Romanesque style and Gothic accents

The Archikolegiata in Tuma is an extremely important and valuable monument, being one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in Poland. Its monumental three-nave basilica overwhelms with its size and austerity. Isn’t it fascinating how solid medieval structures were? Features include two apses – one at the eastern and one at the western end of the nave – and numerous towers and turrets that add to the defensive nature of the building. Although it has undergone many changes and destruction over the centuries, the modern appearance, restored after the Second World War, is largely based on the original Romanesque style. Inside the collegiate church, however, we can also see Gothic touches that have survived later alterations.

Romanesque portal and polychrome: gems of Romanesque art in Poland

The interior of the Archikolegiate Church of Tuma is entered through the northern entrance located in the Renaissance vestibule built in the 16th century. However, the real gem that awaits us beyond the threshold is the original, 12th century, richly carved Romanesque portal surrounding the main entrance to the collegiate church. It is one of the temple’s greatest treasures and one of the best examples of Romanesque art in Poland. Worth noting is the Romanesque tympanum above the entrance to the collegiate church.

Equally stunning is the 12th-century polychrome, located in the western apse. It is the largest Romanesque painting in Poland! It depicts a throning Christ Pantocrator surrounded by St John the Baptist, the Virgin Mary and symbolic figures of tetramorphs (a lion, an eagle, a bull and an angel on wheels – symbols of the Evangelists). Below, though least legible, are probably the images of the 12 apostles. These magnificent polychromes, often referred to as Romanesque frescoes, were only discovered during conservation work in the second half of the 20th century, a real breath of fresh air and a discovery for researchers of Romanesque art in Poland. It is worth stopping a moment and trying to read these medieval painted stories.

The interior of the collegiate church: Gothic vaults and a Renaissance porch

The interior of the collegiate church in Tuma, despite its restored Romanesque character, has retained traces of later eras. The space is divided into three naves by massive columns built of stone and brick. In the side aisles we can admire a Gothic cross-ribbed vault.

The Gothic pointed arcades and inter-nave pillars made of brick are another element that has survived centuries of destruction and reconstruction. The Gothic bricks in the church are one of the few additions from the 14th and 15th centuries.When restoring the Romanesque appearance of the church after World War II, consideration was given to removing all the Gothic bricks and replacing them with stone, but it was decided that there were simply too many bricks to do so (well, and maybe that’s a good thing, because it makes for an interesting mosaic of styles, doesn’t it?). In the interior, many other memorabilia from the 15th and 16th centuries have been preserved.

In particular, it is worth noting:

• A 15th or 16th century wooden sculpture of Our Lady and Child standing in the chancel.
• A stone fragment of the sculpture on the chancel wall depicting Christ Pantocrator from the 12th century.
• Gothic portal from the 15th century (1487 to be precise) leading to the sacristy.
• A 14th- or 15th-century stone baptismal font with a copper cover decorated with unknown symbols (some have suggested that this may be Viking runic writing – a fascinating thought, although probably difficult to confirm!).
• Ceiling boards covered in polychrome with floral motifs from the late 16th and early 17th centuries.
• A stone slab with an engraved figure of a recumbent man, possibly a knight, with a sword in his hand. Tradition has it that this is the tombstone of Peter Vlostovic, a Polish magnate and royal palatine, which adds another layer of fascinating history to the site.

Visiting the interior of the collegiate church at Tuma, one feels transported back in time, touching history and art that has survived for hundreds of years. After all, every stone, every sculpture, has a story. If you are interested in the layout of the temple, you can look for its floor plan.

Classicist reconstruction: changes in the appearance of the archicolegiate

Keep in mind that the current, largely Romanesque appearance is the result of post-war reconstruction. Between 1765 and 1785, after the destruction of the war and the fire, the Archikolegiata underwent a major reconstruction in classicist style. These works, carried out under the direction of the architect Efraim Szreger, on the initiative of Primate Łubieński and at the expense of Bishop Kajetan Sołtyk, completely changed the face of the church.

At that time, the towers, nave, western façade, gables and windows were rebuilt. The interior also acquired a classicist character. The walls of the side aisles were lowered by 2 metres, the arcades of the galleries were bricked up, the inter-nave pillars were walled up and the towers were topped with classicist cupolas. Any Baroque plasterwork and decoration, the main altar and epitaphs found in the interior during this and earlier alterations were removed during the post-war restoration, which aimed to restore the original Romanesque character. So today we see primarily the work of medieval builders and post-war restorers. Although this classicist phase of the church’s history lasted for quite a long time, hardly anyone remembers this appearance today.

The Archikolegiate Church of Tum – religious and cultural life

The Archikolegiata in Tuma is not only a monument of Romanesque architecture in Poland, but also a place of profound religious and cultural significance that has played an important role in the history of Catholicism in Poland. Over the centuries it has witnessed important events and hosted notable personalities. You can find information about the news of the parish in Tuma, its pastor or its Facebook page. It is also worth checking the Mass times.

Patron and patron saint of the archdiocese: the Blessed Virgin Mary and St Alexis

From the very beginning, both the original Benedictine abbey and the Romanesque church in Tuma were given patrons: St Mary the Queen and St Alexis. It is under their invocation that the faithful still gather in this monumental temple today. Veneration of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St Alexis has continued uninterruptedly for centuries.

Benedictine abbey: a trace of the origins

As mentioned, according to some historians, a very old Benedictine abbey (dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. Alexe) is thought to have existed on the site of the Archikolegiata in Tuma, possibly even from 997, although this issue is disputed by researchers, as are many early medieval dates. It is known, however, that the abbey was moved to Mogilno in 1140. Although no above-ground structures remain of the original abbey, its history is an important part of the history of Tum and its religious significance. Interestingly, a model depicting this original Benedictine abbey at Tum can be seen in the Museum in Łęczyca.

Conventions and synods: the history of meetings in the collegiate church

The collegiate church not only served a sacred function, but was also an important centre of political and ecclesiastical life. It was here, within its walls, that important princely conventions and synods of Leczyca were held, bringing together bishops, princes and secular dignitaries. This function continued until the 16th century. The most famous of these meetings was the convention of Łęczyce in 1180, during which the will of Bolesław Krzywousty was challenged. The arrangements adopted at that time, shaping the future of the state, were later approved by Pope Alexander III. This congress is even referred to as the first Sejm in Polish history! This shows how crucial a role this place played in the history of our country. Jan Matejko’s historic painting “The First Sejm in Łęczyca” in the National Museum in Warsaw commemorates this important event. Who would have thought that such an important decision was made in Tuma?

The Łęczyca Chapter: past and present

The Łęczyca Chapter, an important religious institution for the region, functioned at the Archikolegiate Church in Tuma. Unfortunately, its activities were interrupted. The Russian Tsar Alexander I Romanov ordered the dissolution of the Łęczyce Chapter in 1818 or 1819. Fortunately, after many years, in 1993, the Łęczyca Chapter was erected again, continuing the spiritual and cultural tradition associated with the Archikolegiate.

In 1992, by virtue of the bull Totus Tuus Poloniae populus of 25 March, the parish of Tuma was incorporated into the newly created diocese of Łowicz, and the church was raised to the rank of archikolegiate, which underlined its exceptional importance. An important event was the bringing of the relics of St Adalbert from Gniezno to Tuma in 1999. To commemorate this event, a new altar, designed by A. Koss in 2000, was founded in the nave of the Tum Archikolegiate. To commemorate the deposition of the relics, an oak dedicated to St Adalbert was also planted in the garden surrounding the church of St Nicholas. And so history came full circle, linking Tum to the beginnings of the state and the figure of St Adalbert.

Tum archiclegiate church – tourist attractions and surroundings

A visit to Tum is not only about admiring the Archikolegiata itself. The whole village and its immediate surroundings hide many interesting tourist attractions that allow you to fully immerse yourself in the history and culture of the region. The Archikolegiata, the fortified settlement and the open-air museum of the Łęczyca Farmstead are connected by a path, so Tum can be visited on foot. The town of Łęczyca is very closely linked to Tum – it is a historical continuation of the former castle, and you have to get there by car, although a pedestrian and cycle path is planned (which would be a great idea!). If you are planning to visit Tum near Łęczyca, it is worth checking the weather forecast. A map of Tum and the surrounding area may also be helpful.

Tum stronghold: reconstruction of a medieval castle

From a historical point of view, the first thing to do would be to visit the Tuma castle. It is one of the few places in Poland where you can explore the history of early medieval Poland. Interestingly, contrary to its modern name, it was originally not Tum, but the first Łęczyca. The settlement was founded at the end of the 8th century and in time became the capital of the tribal state of the Łęczycans. At the end of the 10th century, at the time of Mieszko I, the settlement was subjugated by the Piasts. The Łęczyca castle played a major role at the beginning of the 12th century, during the war between Bolesław the Wrymouth and his brother Zbigniew for the throne of Poland – at one point it became the main seat of the Wrymouth and even temporarily served as the capital of Poland.

Unfortunately, the castle was destroyed during the Lithuanian invasion in 1294, and then looted and burnt down by the Teutonic Knights in 1331. After this event, the inhabitants no longer returned to the settlement, but settled in the area of modern-day Łęczyca, where a new castle was soon erected. For centuries the site of the castle had been forgotten, and the inhabitants of Tum considered Grodzisko to be the remains of a castle from the time of the Swedish Deluge, calling the hill Szwedzka Góra (sometimes the interpretation of history can be, to put it mildly, casual).

Until two years ago, the Grodzisko was completely unknown and bypassed, but in 2020 reconstruction work began to open it to the public. Prior to the reconstruction, archaeological investigations were carried out, during which many fascinating artefacts were discovered, such as fragments of vessels, tools, musical instruments, ornaments, coins, weights, objects of daily use and militaria (arrowheads, spears, axes). The most interesting of the objects is the ring from Tum, a polygonal silver ring with an engraved Latin inscription “+ TOT VIVAS FELIX QUOT VIVIT TEPORA FENIX:”. This inscription, translated as “May you live happily as long as the Phoenix lives”, with the pagan symbol of the Phoenix (a pagan bird reborn from the ashes, which in this case symbolises the risen Christ), is unique in Europe! (Hard to believe, isn’t it?). Some of the excavated artefacts can be seen in the Museum in Łęczyca, and the ring from Tum is on display in the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum in Łódź.

The reconstruction of the Grodzisko on Szwedzka Góra, completed in 2022, is very faithful to historical sources and research. Visitors are treated to extraordinary sights: a reconstructed wooden gate of an early medieval castle with an entrance bridge, a tower, a guardhouse with a viewpoint, an outbuilding and a platform stretched over the ramparts. It is also possible to lie down for a while on deckchairs set up in the castle, admiring the surroundings. Although it is a reconstruction, the atmosphere of the place is extraordinary. Numerous events are organised on the castle grounds in the summer: archaeological picnics and historical reconstructions, which makes a visit even more attractive. The mound is connected by an educational and viewing footbridge with another Tum attraction: the open-air museum in nearby Kwiatkówko. Just remember, if you are planning a visit, in Grodzisko you can only pay by card.

Łęczyca open-air farm: life in the countryside in the xixth and xxth centuries

After visiting Grodzisk, take the footbridge to nearby Kwiatkówek, where the Łęczycka Zagroda Chłopska open-air museum has been operating since 2013. This is another fascinating attraction of Tum, which brings closer the traditions of the Łęczyca countryside and allows you to see what life was like in the area in the 19th and 20th centuries. The open-air museum is part of the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum in Łódź and presents examples of rural architecture characteristic of the Leczycka Land (although, to be honest, it is not the largest open-air museum in Poland).

In the open-air museum we can see:

• A trestle windmill – the oldest building in the open-air museum, dating back to 1820, which was used to produce flour.
• A barn.
• An oil mill from the mid-20th century.
• A forge from the early 20th century.
• A multi-purpose livestock building with a barn, stables and pigsty, as well as a peat shed.
• A reconstruction of a clay-built dwelling house from the late 19th century.

A visit to the open-air museum is a great way to learn about the former life of the region’s inhabitants. The open-air museum can be visited from April to October, which makes it an ideal place for a spring or autumn excursion, complementing a visit to the archdiocese in Tuma.

The royal castle in Łęczyca: history and treasures

After a visit to Tuma, it is worth travelling to nearby Łęczyca to visit the local castle, which is a historical continuation of the fortified settlement at Tuma. When the castle was destroyed, the inhabitants moved to present-day Łęczyca, and in 1357-1365, by order of King Casimir the Great, a new fortress was built on the banks of the Bzura River. The castle in Łęczyca played an important role in Polish history. King Władysław Jagiełło stayed here more than 30 times. The fortress was also visited by other Polish rulers, such as Kazimierz Jagiellończyk and Zygmunt III Waza.

In 1406, the castle burned down during an invasion by the Teutonic Knights, but was rebuilt. A few years later, it was here that an important decision was made for the Crown to join the war against the Teutonic Knights in the event of a Teutonic aggression against the Lithuanian lands. The result of this resolve was the famous Battle of Grunwald fought in 1410. Unfortunately, in 1655, during the Swedish Deluge, the castle of Łęczyca was captured by the Swedish army. The Poles recaptured the fortress, but both the castle and the town suffered huge losses. Łęczyca never regained its former importance, and the ruined fortress even began to be dismantled and sold for bricks in the 19th century. Fortunately, the castle has survived to the present day and is now open to the public. As a historian friend used to say, “every castle in Poland has a turbulent history”.

Museum in Łęczyca: artefacts and legends

The castle premises house the Museum in Łęczyca, which presents very interesting exhibitions about the region, its history, traditions, legends and art. On the ground floor, there is an archaeological exhibition which shows the oldest history of the region and the Stone and Bronze Age artefacts found in the area. Another part of the exhibition is devoted to the history of the Archikolegiata in Tuma. Here, one can see, among other things, objects excavated during excavation work in the temple. Particularly noteworthy are: one of the oldest surviving chalices with a paten (a plate for the host) from the 11th century, silver chalices from the 12th and 13th centuries, a bishop’s ring with amethyst from the 12th century and a crucifix from the same century. These exhibits testify to the great importance of the collegiate church over the centuries.

On the upper floor of the building, there is an exhibition dedicated to… the devil Boruta! The collection in Łęczyca is the largest collection of folk sculptures with demonic themes in Poland. It is presented in the castle, as it is in the basements of this fortress that Boruta lives and hides his vast treasures. The figure of Boruta dates back to pagan times and is associated with the forests, the dense, dark woods. With increasing Christianisation, the forest demon began to be identified with the devil, but Boruta is an ambiguous figure – he is not a typical devil who torments sinners. He prefers to hang out in taverns and play with pretty girls. Sometimes he helps King Casimir the Great, other times he builds a collegiate church (as the legend goes!), and at other times he guards the treasures in the castle dungeons. He is a colourful figure of local folklore which you absolutely must get to know!

The museum also houses an ethnographic exhibition, presenting a stylised interior of a Łęczyca cottage from the early 20th century. After visiting the exhibition halls, you can walk along a very narrow corridor (guard porch) to the main tower, at the top of which there is a viewpoint offering beautiful panoramic views of the area.

Practical information about the visit

Tum is a small village located in Łęczyca County (Lodz Voivodeship), about 3 kilometres east of Łęczyca.

• Directions by car: From Łódź you can reach Tum by taking the national road 91 to Łęczyca and then heading east. From Warsaw, it is best to take the A2 motorway, turning north into the A1 before Strykow, and then west into provincial road 703.
• By rail: You can get to Łęczyca itself by rail from both Lodz and Warsaw. From Łęczyca you can get to Tum by taxi, bus or, for the active, on your own feet (about 3 km walk, which is quite pleasant in spring).
• Parking: In Tum, near the Archikolegiata, the Grodzisko and the Open Air Museum, parking facilities are available for cars.
• The address of the Archikolegiata: Archikolegiata of the Blessed Virgin Mary Queen and St Alexe, Tum 8.
• Food: In the immediate vicinity of the collegiate church is Gościniec Tumski, a restaurant serving Polish cuisine.
• Accommodation: Tum is a small village with no accommodation. It’s also hard to find them in Leczyca, so consider staying overnight in nearby towns or plan your trip as a day trip if you’re prepared to return the same day.
• Opening hours and ticket prices: Information about the opening hours of the Archikolegiata (the church in Tuma near Łęczyca), as well as the price list and masses, is best checked on site or from local sources. If you are interested in other visitors’ opinions or photos of the place, search for them online. A map of Tum and the surrounding area is also available. It is also worth checking the weather forecast before planning a visit.

Tum: cultural and tourist heritage of the region

A visit to Tum is a real trip back in time and a fascinating experience. This small, sleepy village boasts a monumental, one of the oldest and best-preserved churches in Poland – the Archdiocese of the Blessed Virgin Mary Queen and St. Alexe. It is a pearl of the Romanesque Route in Poland, an object of great historical and artistic significance, being the best preserved large Romanesque building on Polish soil. But Tum is not only the Archikolegiata. Near Tum, there was a fortified town, which was one of the most important in Poland at the time of the Piasts, and even temporarily served as the capital.

Today, we can explore its history in the carefully reconstructed Grodzisko in Tum on Szwedzka Góra. Next to it, there is also the Łęczyca Farmstead Open-Air Museum, which brings us closer to life in the area in the 19th and 20th centuries. All these attractions, connected by a pleasant path, form a coherent and extremely interesting tourist complex (although I admit that there is sometimes a lack of tourists here, which on the one hand is a disadvantage for the development, on the other hand, it allows you to enjoy the peace and quiet).

Also worth mentioning is the Museum of Ecclesiastical Heritage, which operates at the Tumska Archdiocese, exhibiting valuable liturgical vessels, monstrances, Mass chalices, bishop’s mitres, chasubles and even a papal cassock. A stall by the church sells delicious Tumski honey. Łęczyca, with its castle and museum treasures, including an exhibition devoted to the devil Boruta and Poland’s largest collection of folk sculptures on demonic themes, is the perfect complement to the trip. Tum should be added to the list of places associated with the beginnings of Polish history, right next to Poznań, Gniezno or Krakow. It is a place where history literally comes alive before our eyes, and where the Romanesque art of Poland presents itself in all its splendour. You are cordially invited to visit the Archikolegiata in Tuma and discover all its secrets!